• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.986-1003
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• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.175-187
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.96-112
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• 2018

This study developed the pants pattern, that improved appearance and gesture functions in clothes to resolve inconveniences in case of activities with being adequate in fitness of slim-fit pants for obese adolescents. The slim-fit pants pattern was developed through the fitting test after designing and making the pattern of the experimental clothing A(c/pu; 99/1%) with the primary commercial clothing as basic prototype, through the fitting test and implementation of the experimental clothing, modified and supplemented secondarily, and through the fitting test of the second experimental clothing, modified and supplemented tertiary. In terms of findings, first, as a result of analyzing the commercial slim-fit pants, it is interpreted to have projected an optical illusion, that appears to be slim due to being narrow in width of the front panel when observed from the front of the pants. Second, in the fitting test of the first experimental clothing, the prototype of commercial clothing was understood to have improved butt, crotch, waist and femoral regions. Third, pattern design of the second experimental clothing was allowed to decline abdominal pressure, in case of the sitting position, by making the crotch line in the front panel short and by handling it with a yoke belt, and was processed a difference between waist and hip circumference in the back panel, with a rubber band in the whole waist part. Fourth, in the gesture function test of the third experimental clothing, high evaluation was received in every item excluding the knee region.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.481-490
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• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.17-34
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• 2023

This study aimed to develop a fitted torso pattern with an improved fit for inverted-triangular males in their twenties. For this study, six torso patterns were collected, compared and evaluated, and a fitted torso pattern was developed using virtual fittings. The research results are as follows. First, the fitted torso pattern received a good rating as a result of the virtual fitting evaluation: waist dart set 2 of the front; the amount of comfort is set at 5 cm around the chest, 4 cm around the waist and 10 cm around the hips. Second, the evaluation of virtual fitting of the development pattern showed that fit evaluation was 4.11/5 points, ease evaluation was 6.53/7 points, and that the stress map and airgap were suitable for the human body. Third, the actual fit evaluation of the development pattern was 4.25/5 points, 6.35/7 points for ease evaluation, and 4.81/5 points for motion evaluation. Fourth, there was no significant difference between the results of the virtual and actual fitting evaluation with the objectivity test. It is therefore possible to apply a pattern developed through a virtual fitting to an actual human body and to confirm the objectivity of the pattern.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.346-359
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• 2012

This study provides basic guidelines to enrich lecture content and teaching methods for university lecturers about basic clothing construction (flat pattern making). The survey was conducted from October $13^{th}$ to December $20^{th}$ 2010 by mail and e-mail on 96 selected clothing departments in Korean universities to investigate the content, method and condition of the course of basic pattern making. A total of 63.3% of survey respondents were PhD graduates, 80 percent majored 'Apparel Science and Technology', average of total teaching experience was 12.84 years and 40 percent had studied abroad. The surveyed universities were 4 year universities (70%), 2-3 year tenure colleges (27%), and Cyber Universities (3%). The average number of students in a class was 28.08 and the lab space and equipment was evaluated positively only when the number of students was 20 or less. The type of measurements for basic pattern drafting were 'individual student's sizes' (62%), 'ready-made clothes sizing system' (25%), 'professor's experiential sizes' (5%), 'dress form sizes' (3%). In addition, the percentage of using 'ready-made clothes sizing system' increased 13% over the previous study (Lee, 2000). At a basic pattern drafting stage, 'the error of body measurements' in the case of using individual student's sizes, 'the poor results of fitting for students who deviate from standard body size' in the case of using ready-made clothes sizing system, 'the lack of education about fitting' in the case of using dress form sizes had been pointed out as shortcomings. A total of 66% of survey respondents carried out muslin fitting; however, a lack of students and teacher feedback about fitting & alteration of paper patterns remained a problem.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.123-136
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• 2023

To develop smart sportswear capable of measuring biometric data, we created a close-fitting pattern using two- and three-dimensional (2D and 3D, respectively) methods. After 3D virtual fitting, the tightness of each pattern was evaluated using image processing of contact points, mesh deviation, and cross-sectional shapes. In contact-point analysis, the 3D pattern showed high rates of contact with the body (84.6% and 93.1% for shirts and pants, respectively). Compared with the 2D pattern, the 3D pattern demonstrated closer contact at the lower chest, upper arm, and thigh regions, where electrocardiography and electromyography were primarily carried out. The overall average gap was also lower in the 3D pattern (5.27 and 4.66 mm in shirts and pants, respectively). In the underbust, waist, thigh circumference, and mid-thigh circumference, the cross-section distance between clothing and body was showed a statistically significant difference and evenly distributed in the 3D pattern, exhibiting more closeness. The tightness and fit of the 3D smart sportswear sensor pattern were successfully evaluated. We believe that this study is critical, as it facilitates the comparison of different patterns through visualization and digitization through 3D virtual fitting.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1824-1835
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• 2010

This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.292-305
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• 2013

This study reported present state of clothing technical designers' work duties and working conditions, so as to suggest effective ways to develop professional training methods for them. Technical designers working for vendors and agents were surveyed as they represent the majority of technical designers in Korean clothing industries. Survey participants were 62 technical designers working for 6 clothing vendors and 2 clothing agents, and the survey closely inspected their work qualifications, duties and responsibilities, working conditions and training conditions. Survey was conducted from June $27^{th}$ to July $17^{th}$, 2012. The questionnaire examined frequency analysis and multiple response analysis using SPSS 19.0 Windows after investigating documents and work fields through personal experiences and interviews from technical designers for data collection and analysis. A chi-square test analyzed the preferred type of fitting for technical designers of vendors and agents. The results showed that 32.3% of those surveyed have more than 7 years of work experience and the highest level of education is predominantly a bachelor's degree (57 people, 91.9%). Among the work responsibilities, respondents did sample measuring more than four times a day. Also, the results showed that technical designers needed to qualify: first 'Fitting Technic', second 'Pattern Correction Capability', and third 'English Skills to Communicate with Buyers'; subsequently, education on several technics (such as measuring, grading, and fitting) were required for the job. Current technical designers answered that they need more various work-related education. However, the analyzed results showed that pre work-related training was insufficient. The data shows that technical designers require re-education in 'Pattern Correction Method' (61.3%) and 'Sewing Education' (64.5%).