• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.21-28
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• 2024

The public can access movies more easily than any other cultural genre. The film's costumes convey the social, political, and cultural climate of that time period. Additionally, it subtly conveys the message of the movie, including the intentions of the director and the characters. Filmmakers can now use fact-based materials to plan their films, and audiences can now watch costume in movies with objective standards, particularly in period dramas, thanks to the advancements in over-the-top (OTT) services. The 77th British Academy costume Award went to the movie Napoleon because of how much emphasis it placed on the outfit. Ninety-five percent of the costume was made by experts in military uniforms and costumery. In contrast to the previous aristocratic and exaggerated Rococo costume, Napoleonic clothing had a natural and common-class character. A natural-shaped Chemise dress composed of light, reflective material first appeared in the Directoire era, just after the French Revolution. Chemise dresses made of a variety of materials gained popularity during the Empire era. With Napoleon taking the throne and Josephine becoming the empress, the vibrant court culture resurfaced during the Empire era. The silk was embellished with gold thread and embroidery, train dangling forms, and different types of sleeves appeared in Empire styles. They wore Pellisse and shawls under the coat. The hair style had long, ancient hair and was adorned with fillets. They also wore straw hats, bonnets, and caps. Long gloves and parasols were also popular accessories, as were pearl or colored jewelry necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. During the Empire era, tiaras were fashionable. Shoes were either low-heeled pumps or sandals. The movie uses Chemise and Empire costumes, which are versatile enough to be used in a range of settings and eras. When it came to details, the type of sleeve was employed without regard to time, such as when using those from an earlier or later period. Since jewelry was worn more often than not in that era, practically every character has earrings on their necklaces. Nearly exact replicas of the coronation costume can be found in paintings by Jacques-Louis David. The red trains, Josephine's Empire dress, the crown, the Tiara, and the costumes of every character in attendance were all clearly identifiable in terms of form and color. To further aid viewers in understanding and enhancing the film's overall coherence, a scene featuring David drawing the coronation was added. Overall, there were differences in that the historical costumes were accurately recreated, the materials and details were utilized without restriction, and some of the costumes were designed with modern materials or accessories that were used more than the historical costumes. This section appears to have been written to highlight the beauty of the characters' personalities or settings. There is a limitation to this study in that it only looked at aristocratic clothing, which includes Josephine's. We will concentrate on male clothing in future research.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.247-261
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• 1973

In the past, what we call "fashion" was monopolized by only a small highly privileged group of individuals. To-day, we know that fashion field has become progressive democratization of taste not only in clothing, but in all expressions of contemporary living, from automobiles to refrigerators. So, we can find out how wonderful it is that our recent fashionable history was changed so fast. Whatever highly characteristic costume may be in the former, the way people dress was the reflection of their contemporary lives as well as their political status, economics, cultures, arts religions, so that a history of fashion is a history of life. Now, that categorical silhouettes make an exclusion across centuries of past history into the world of aesthetics, particularizes following ; symbolic voluminous toga of Roman authority, the religious but gorgeous Byzantine tunic, extravagant vertical bell-skirt of the Renaissance, the romantic Rococo style, the elegant crinoline and the bustle of the Cul de Paris of the nineteenth. It came true that women was intoxicated ostentations and elegances, since they had on ornamently costume which bear some relationship to the more formal Co-stesy, till the beginning of the twentieth. As Jonney Ironside said, "Nowadays, those exessive ornamentations and cumbersome design hardly belong to a civilization run by machines and in a hurry". These were once a sign of wealth and class ; at the beginning of the twentieth it was disappearing step by step. What is the reason\ulcorner At the end of the nineteenth, the emancipation of women, the movement of the Art Nouveau and the opening of the ready-made, have influenced on modern style, directly or indirectly. Finally, democratically popular costume was caused by fighting against the masculine prejudice excluded them from activities.hem from activities.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.59-68
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• 1996

As a society is becoming more and more complicated people living in modern times are experiencing more stresses for various reasons. Some past research results proved the role of clothing in reducing the stresses. The purpose of this study is to investigate how the preference of the mini-style which is recently most fashionable styles is related to the psychological factors such as stress and body satisfaction. Measure Instrument were Nolmes and Masuda(1973)'s SRRS(Social Readjustment Rating Scal) Secord and Jourard(1953)' Body Cathexis Scale and mini-style preference scale by author Survey questionnaires were distributed to two hundred seventy adult women living in Seoul area during may 25 1992. through June 8. 1992. The age range of the subjects was from 30 to 49 The final number of subjects in-cluded in the statistical analysis was 244. The result and conclusions are as follows: 1. Significant difference was existed in mini-style preference between high and low body satisfaction groups. Mini-style was pre-ferred by high body satisfaction group than low body satisfaction group. 2, Significant difference was existed in mini-style preference between high and low stress groups. Mini-style was preferred by low stress group than high stress group. 3. Regarding demographic characteristics unmarried 2 year college graduates with low family income in their early 30's pref. mini-style. 4. There was a marginal interaction effect of demographic characteristics on the relation-ship between mini-style preference and body satisfaction. The higher preference and body satisfaction. The higher preference for mini-style was found for the higher body satis-faction group mostly with the age range of 35 to 39 married 4 year college graduates as drop-puts and mid less income group. 5. There was a marginal interaction effect of demographic variables on the relatonship be-tween mini style preference and stress level The higher preference for mini-style was re-lated to the low stress level group mostly with age group of 35 to 44 high school graduates or lower and highest income group regardless of their marital status. In sum mini-style seems to be preferred by women who feel relatively less stress and are more satisfied with their bodies thus psycho-logically stable.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권7호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 Q방법론을 적용하여 대학생을 대상으로 학과 점퍼에 대한 주관적 평가와 인식 유형별 특성을 알아보고자 하였다. 대학생의 학과 점퍼에 대한 태도 및 인식유형은 3유형으로 분류되었다. 제1유형의 경우 학과 점퍼는 학과에 대한 소속감을 주고 학과를 홍보하는 역할을 한다고 인식하였다. 또, 학과 점퍼 착용 시 행동을 조심하지만, 활동이 편하고 주변 사람들의 좋은 평가를 하여 나의 신뢰감을 높여주는 효과가 있다고 생각하였다. 제2유형의 경우 학과 점퍼는 활동하기 편하며 유행을 따르지 않는 무난한 디자인이라 만족스럽고, 등교 시 늘 착용하였다. 제3유형은 학과 점퍼 착용 시 동질감과 소속감을 주고, 학과 점퍼가 유행을 따라가는 스타일이면 좋겠고 학과 점퍼 착용에 긍정적인 유형이다. 대학생들의 학과 점퍼는 유니폼으로 학과의 이미지나 상징성을 잘 나타내고, 활동량이 큰 대학생들의 신체적 특징을 반영하여 맞음새가 우수한 학과 점퍼가 개발되어야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to identify appearance management behavior related to well-being lifestyle of women. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The factors relating to a well-being lifestyle were personality and value, fashionable appearance, leisure activity, healthy food, brands, social activities, reasonable consumption, environmental protection, and individuality. The factors of appearance management behavior were weight management and skin care, apparel and accessory management, dietary treatment, bathing, make-up and hair styling, underwear management, using hospitals, beauty salons, and identity kits. 2. Women were classified into 4 kinds of groups: well-being, reasonable value pursuit, ostensible consumption, and bad-being. 3. The members of the well-being group were generally married, highly educated, had a high income, and spent a lot of money for their appearance management. They had a high level of appearance management in terms of weight and skincare, apparel and fashion accessories management, dietary treatment, bathing, make-up and hairstyling, underwear management, and in the use of hospitals and beauty salons. The members of the reasonable value pursuit group were generally married, less educated, with a medium income, and spent little for their appearance management. Members of the ostensible consumption group were generally unmarried, with a low income but spent lot of money for sundries and appearance management. They also had a high level of appearance management with regard to weight training and skin care, apparel and fashion accessory management, underwear management, the use of hospitals and beauty salons, and using identity kits. Members of the bad-being group were generally unmarried, had low incomes, little disposable income, spent little on appearance management, and didn't manage their appearance as a whole.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to suggest the most appropriate design concepts for sportive fashion product based on the analysis of consumers' acceptance of the recent sportive fashion trends according to their lifestyle. The subjects consisted of 295 males and females, between 17 and 35 year-old. A self-report questionnaire with 4 stimuli was employed for data gathering, and the data were analyzed by the methods of frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, and Pearson's correlation coefficient. The results of this study were summarized as follows: For the First, the recent sportive fashion trends were categorized into four groups; 'street- sportive' trend, 'futuristic-sportive' trend, 'ethnic-sportive' trend and 'urban-utility sportive' trend. Secondly, based on the result of cluster analysis on consumers' lifestyle, total four consumer groups were identified; 'pursuing sense' group, 'pursuing culture' group, 'pursuing utility' group, and 'indifference' group. Thirdly, the consumers relatively preferred two sportive styles among the four groups, typically representing 'urban-utility' trend and 'street' trend. The typical 'urban-utility' style was particularly preferred by the consumers who desired to express themselves as urban, modern, and luxurious. The typical 'street' style was preferred by the consumers who tried to express themselves as active and fashionable. Finally, preferences of the sportive trends according to consumers' lifestyle were interpreted as follows: the 'pursuing sense' group relatively preferred 'urbanutility' style and 'street' style, the 'pursuing culture' group preferred 'street' style and the 'pursuing utility' group preferred 'urban-utility' style, meaningwhile the 'indifference' group preferred 'street' style and 'urban- utility' style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.156-169
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to develop lightweight, stretchable, tight-fit smart sportswear using the conductive yarns into the garment and demonstrating its usefulness. Sportswears with the ability to control LEDs with respect to lighting of the surrounding were developed by applying embroidery with conductive yarns to 2 types of men's T-shirts and 2 types of women's leggings pants for outdoor activities and exercise purposes. LEDs were applied to the front and back of men's T-shirts and to the rear of the waist of women's leggings. Men's T-shirts were printed where the LEDs were to be applied, and inside, they were embroidered with conductive threads on the hot-melt fabric to be attached, and then connected with LED. Women's pants were embroidered on the elastic band, in the form of a sine wave that gives it ability to stretch, and finally the elastic band was hidden inside the waistband. The operation of the light sensor in the dark provided the ability to protect joggers from night drivers or cyclists. LEDs were activated when the wearer turns on the fashionable device on his/her shoulder by pressing it. It was able to reduce the risk of accidents by giving recognizability to vehicles, bicycles, and athletes approaching or passing by at night, and securing safe distance from vehicles, etc. Internal embroidery technology had the same flexible and lightweight functions as ordinary clothing products, making it possible to apply to tight-fit smart T-shirts or leggings pants designs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.336-340
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• 2004

This is the result of the comparison of the number of jeans, colors, images, opinions when it was purchased, shapes according to the gender of persons in jeans. According to the gender, male students had 1.64 jeans(46.3%) and female students had 2.09 jeans(53.7%) on the average. Male students selected colors of jeans which they don't have, but want to wear once in the order of blue(3.7%), red(21.0%), white(24.1%), black(25.6%), and others(25.6%). Female students selected colors in the order of blue(3.2%), black(15.6%), red(24.8%), white(27.7%) and others(25.6%). In case of the general image about jeans, male students thought the jeans as masculine(1.2%), sexy(3.1%), unisexual(3.2%), active(23.6%), young(29.8%), and comfortable(36.5%) and female students thought it as masculine(0.3%), sexy(3.5%), unisexual(10.4%), young(21.9%), comfortable(28.1%) and active(35.8%). Male students considered torn or holed jeans ill-mannered(10.7%), delinquent, (20.7%)trendy(21.0%), comfortable(22.9%), and dandy(24.7%). Female students think it ill-mannered(3.4%), delinquent7.1%, trendy(17.4%), comfortable(21.1%), and dandy(50.9%). When they purchase jeans, male students choose according to trends(17.9%), don't consider design(19.5%) and look for their own styles(62.6%), female students didn't consider design(5.2%), choose according to trends(22.0%), and look for their own styles(72.5%). The designs of jeans which they usually wear were bell bottom(1.5%), wide-shaped(7.4%), baggy(17.5%), straight-shaped(73.6%) in case of male students. on the other hand, in case of female students, baggy(10.2%), wide-shaped(11.0%), bell bottom(17.0%), and straight-shaped(61.8%). The designs of jeans which they didn't have but want to wear once are wide-shaped(10.1%), bell bottom(13.2%), baggy(20.9%), and straight-shaped(55.2%) in case of male students. On the other hand, females students want to wear baggy(11.6%), wide-shaped(15.0%), straight-shaped(27.6%), and bell bottom(45.8%). The above-mentioned findings illustrated that both male and female students regarded blue as the original color of jeans, but they wanted to wear jeans in colors other than blue. In the past, jeans were considered masculine and unisex, but they viewed jeans as an apparel that was comfortable to wear and made it easier to move. Female students had a higher tendency to be fashionable than male students, and their preference for jeans was consequently different. Jeans manufacturers should take those characteristics into account to produce products in different colors and form.