A Study on Women's Underwear Structures by Ideal Beauty - Focused on period 1850 - 1910 -

이상미(理想美)에 따른 여성(女性)속옷구성(構成)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 1850년(年)-1910년(年)을 중심(中心)으로 -

  • Kim, Jee-Yeon (Dept. of Textile Design, Yong-In Songdam College) ;
  • Chun, Hei-Jung (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul Women's University)
  • 김지연 (용인송담대학 텍스타일디자인과) ;
  • 전혜정 (서울여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Published : 2001.06.30

Abstract

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

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