• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.343-353
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• 2003

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.72-83
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the history of 20th century fashion and make-up culture, analyze trend of the modern fashion and make-up, creat a cyber make-up model according to themes and also it will find out how to use make-up as a part of fashion genre. As a result of this study is 1. Looking over change-process in 20th century fashion and make-up history, we can find the popular make-up color and pattern reflecting the society and cultural environments. And also make-up culture reflecting their sense of values and way of thinkings. 2. Analyzing fashion and make up color trend of 2002 F/W, we can find a similarity between fashion and make-up color trend by comparing with hue&tone chart. All of theme have a tendency to be natural, veiled, feminine by neutral color and artifical highlighted, illuminate, transparant by clear-high saturation color. 3. Creating imagemaps, color palletes and cyber model of 4 trend themes by computer graphic, It can give more visual and interesting effect on the cyber space, and also it can help to expect make-up will be dizitalized, visualized and informationalized.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.142-155
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop a fashion show model as a local festival program by designing the costumes of Chosun dynasty from later 16th century to early 17th century and planning a fashion show. The designed costumes are based on the life of the representative poetess, Maechang Lee, from Buan-gun, Jeollabukdo. The planning of the fashion show consists of seven stages, that is, finding a theme, composing the story, designing costumes, choosing music, planning intermission events, producing visuals and booklet, and directing model performances. This paper focuses mainly on finding a theme, composing the story, and designing costumes.

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.133-147
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• 2015

The aim of this study is to review the creative fashion installation of Henrik Vibskov, Danish designer. Its intention is to contribute useful information for more innovative fashion presentation. As a research method, document and case study were performed and his collections from 2004 F/W to 2016 S/S were analyzed. In fashion installation, the designer puts objects in meaningful spaces in order to convey a certain message, to make an integrated artwork, and to interact with spectator. It has been used in fashion exhibitions, as well as in the set design of fashion performance and fashion show. The results were as follows. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation has three features, which are 1)conceptual theme approach that communicates a twisted and metaphoric message, with a poetic and interesting show title, 2) surrealistic scenography that plays with fragmentation of the human body, clustering of plastic and symbolic objects, innovative color transformations, and visual trickery between figures and the background, and 3) setting for multisensory performance that makes spectators interact by making artistic objects and surroundings, which stimulates the five senses. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation can exist as an independent artwork, and not just as a supporting piece for a fashion show. It has both artistic and fashionable values, and can be an effective fashion presentation communicating his conceptual fashion themes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.46-62
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• 2020

This study analyzed contextual expression types in modern fashion show space derived from the architecture based on Pepper's Contextualism. Pepper's Contextualism theory was applied to fashion showcases of the world's four largest collections from 2010 to 2020 by analyzing contextual expression in architecture, resulting in six contextual expression types. The first type was natural environmental contextual expression in which a modern fashion was fused with the natural environment using the natural environment's context. The second type was a temporal contextual expression expressed by blending the theme of a fashion show and an artificial environment that could express past, present, and future issues. The third type was a spatial contextual expression that extended in a flat or three-dimensional direction. This expression could connect with customers in the field. The fourth type was an associative contextual expression that could formally present the theme of a fashion show or a designer's inspiration by borrowing a specific place. The fifth type was an ideological contextual expression that could express a designer's concept or value through a fashion show's design. The sixth type was a contextual communication expression that could allow viewers to immerse themselves in the space of a fashion show venue mentally through a morphological or virtual technique and experience a fashion show.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.29-45
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• 2010

In order to provide more systematic approach to analyze fabric trends and to develop fabrics accordingly, ecology fabric trend from 1986 to 2005 was analyzed related with fabric trend themes and fabric attributes. The result shows that in the 1980s, natural theme appeared, followed by primitive theme and imitated natural theme until the mid 1990s. From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, new natural theme appeared, followed by eco-friendly theme, and then recycling theme. In the natural theme, 'clean' was the most important fabric attribute and 'textured' and 'worn' were important fabric attributes in the primitive theme. In the imitated natural theme, 'wet' fabric attribute was preferred. In the new natural theme, 'lightweight' were preferred. The results of this study empirically demonstrated that abstract and ambiguous trend terms can be interpreted with a physical, substantial, and feasible attributes that fabric practitioners can easily understand.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1085-1099
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• 2016

This article is designed to establish fundamental design criterion for theme park cast costumes in accordance with play type and space. There is an understanding that theme parks act as a play space that is designed to meet diverse playing desires. To analyze cast costumes, the theme park - 'Everland' in South Korea as an example, area was divided into attraction space and non-attraction space. Attraction space is mainly for full-scale play content areas and the non-attraction space is to enforce the attraction space experience. Roger Caillois's play theory states that there are 4 play types; Illinx, Mimicry, $Ag{\hat{o}}n$, and Alea. All 4 play types were shown through attraction and Mimicry at non-attraction. Each cast costume was analyzed in terms of apparel design elements - silhouette, textile, color, detail, and props - related to play type facility and cast role. Criteria for theme park cast costume designs were suggested based on the results. Illinx cast members who fulfill a safety-checking role wear high chroma warm color costumes with the accent on details in bodice cutting lines, collar edges, pockets, buttons and decorative ornaments. A complementary contrast is also used. The guidance cast in Illinx may wear a suit in bright/vivid color. Mimicry guidance cast costumes show meticulous perfection in imitation with the figure in its space. From head to toe, color, textile, and silhouette - every detail and even props should match the character. $Ag{\hat{o}}n$ cast costumes are strictly limited in detail and decorative ornament usage as well as in color, since they are in charge of the management and operation of a competition. Alea cast's role is a self-demonstrator. Alea cast members should be a real tarot card reader. However, a manual should control their costumes. A total of 10 cast roles at a non-attraction space should be designed to show job patterns clearly in accordance with the whole theme at the park.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.371-384
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• 2011

This study with 'trip' as a theme, aims to develop textile designs and fashion bags for travel which is widely applicable fitting traveler's T P O, applying Victor Vasarely's artwork. During the planning process of design, 'Whenever & Wherever's concept was set by analyzing fashion trend information in 2010-11 F/W proposed by Interfashion Planning and FCK; in addition, 'Bobos' were selected as research targets. It organized 4 images of 'Modern', 'Romantic', 'Classic' and 'Fantastic'. The motives are proposed textile design with '$Cross^2$', 'Falling Z', 'Cir-Classicism' and 'Skinny-holic' per each theme. The designs developed were printed out and into polyester canvas with a Polaris V6 DTP from dgen, Corp. Textile designs developed were applied for 'two-way' formed fashion bags for traveling with high practicality. Fashion bags for traveling consisted of big bags, tote bags, and hip sacks; a total of 12 works (4 sets per theme) were produced. This study sought practical plans for artworks by producing fashion goods through a DTP system. The results of this study can be used as guidelines for further studies and as a significant contribution to the creation of high values for exciting fashion products.