• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.105-117
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.89-104
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to explain how a power group in a society forms features of sexuality in dress. As for the research methodology, first, historical research was undertaken to study in socioeconomic context in which sexuality has been formed and transformed. Second, demonstrative studies on sexual-image styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. Third, analysis of the relationship between the power and sexuality in dress was done by literature research. Masculinity in dress, such as simplicity and concealment, corresponds to the attributes of the viewer, and femininity in dress, such as decoration and exposure, corresponds to the attributes of the viewee. Power struggle is the complex process of forming of the viewer-viewee relationship. The one who grasps the power becomes the viewer. In the shift from the Industrial Society to the Information and Technology Society, powers are horizontally spread over the society and the stereotype of sexuality in both women's and men's dress is fading out. In the field of design, standards and certainty described by absolute power are losing their importance. The 'chaotic' view of a world filled with mutual exchange of masculinity and femininity and uncertainty of sexuality will be sure to be a dominant trend in fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

This study aims to recognize the value of traditional culture and to create 'Korean style rest costume' i.e. in-door clothes for comfort's purpose designed for hotel or other tourist accommodations with its own image. In so doing, national pride and identity will be exalted for Koreans, while an opportunity of cultural expose will be provided for foreigners through the symbols of Korea, which will contribute to the international introduction and representation of Korea. First, this study investigates the external characteristics in forms and structures of Korean style rest costume. Second, questionnaires regarding consciousness of Korean style rest costume and preference in design are distributed to the hotel guest and staff-both domestic and international- to be fir out. Lastly, designed rest costume representing Korean image, based on the results of the survey. Upon investigation, users and employers both preferred two piece style which is separated to upper garment and lower garment. While employers preferred short sleeve, users preferred long sleeves. In colors, employers preferred blue while users preferred white. In garments, both of. the employers and users preferred cotton, towel and cotton flannel. In addition, when introducing rest costume, it will be efficient to distinct the strategy between natives and foreigners, and also distinguish where the rest costume will be used.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.57-64
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to compare clothing attitudes and the criteria for clothing selection between Korean and Korean-Chinese college female students in the Yanbian region of China. The subjects were selected as follows: 404 Korean female college students in the Choongchung area and 242 Korean-Chinese female college students in the Yanbian region of China. Questionnaires were used to collect the data and the data was analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, and t-test. The major results of this study were as follows: The clothing attitudes of the total respondents were classified into 5 factors: the fashion involving factor, the modesty involving factor, the economy conscious factor, the brand-name oriented factor, and the practical user factor. The modesty involving factor, the economy conscious factor, the brand-name oriented factor, and the practical user factor were significantly different between Korean and Korean-Chinese college female students. Korean consumers thought highly of the economy conscious factor and the practical user factor compared with Korean-Chinese college female students. However, Korean-Chinese college female students thought highly of the brand-name oriented factor and the modesty factor compared with Korean consumers.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.123-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences of evaluative criteria and brand preferences by clothing purchasing motivations of Chinese female consumers. Data were obtained from 350 Chinese women in the 20's and 30's who were living in Shanghi, China. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, cluster analysis, and descriptive statistics using SPSS WIN 12.0. The results of this study were as follows. The clothing purchasing motivations of consumers were classified into 'hedonic,' 'utilitarian,' and 'economic' motivation. The evaluative criteria of clothing were classified into 'aesthetic/quality,' 'service/care,' and 'social status symbol' evaluative criteria. Chinese female consumers were divided into four groups by cluster analysis of clothing purchasing motivation; economic, practical hedonic, utilitarian, and inactive groups. There were significant differences in evaluative criteria of clothing, brand preference of foreign brand and Korean brand, and purchase intention among four groups. Practical hedonic and economic groups showed the highest means of evaluative criteria of clothing, foreign brand, Korea brand, and purchase intention of Korean apparel brand. This study provides implications into Korean fashion marketers for developing marketing strategies in China.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.659-672
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• 2013

Nowadays, sports and outdoor market has been popular and expanding since the implementation of the five-day workweek and change of lifestyle. Outdoor clothing considered exclusive property of the middle-aged individuals in the past. Recently there is a drift towards having outdoor looking at the age of 10-20. The purpose of this study was to analyze the features of purchasing behaviors and demographics by each groups targeting middle school and high school students. The study was conducted with questionnaires towards people who live in the city of Busan and who have experiences of buying outdoor clothing. Data analysis was conducted via SPSS 18.0 with factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, cross tabulation, frequency analysis and Duncan's multiple range test. The results showed that there were five factors sought for outdoor wear benefits: Individuality/Fashion, Brand, Attractive appearance, Economic value, Comfort/Functional. Cluster analysis showed that there were four groups of outdoor wear benefits sought. Overall, the four groups were different in regard to purchasing behaviors and demographics. Based upon the results mentioned above, this study summarizes the key features of each group and can provide applicable suggestion for conducting strategic marketing activities.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.647-650
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• 2006

The factors affecting clothing comfort are temperature, humidity, and air velocity of clothing microclimate which is the temperature and the humidity between the skin surface and the innermost garment, clothing pressure and clothing texture to the skin. This study was designed to estimate the distribution of clothing microclimate on the upper body. All the data of this study were collected from volunteered male subjects in the controlled climate chamber laboratory in which the temperature was $25\pm1^{\circ}C$, the relative humidity $50\pm5%$, and the air velocity 30cm/sec. All subjects should wear long-sleeved inner wear and pants woven in 100% cotton. Clothing microclimate temperature at 16 sites on the chest and 16 sites on the back was measured. The results were as follows: the distribution of the clothing microclimate temperature on the upper body was $30.6\sim34.7^{\circ}C$ on the breast and $31.5\sim35.4^{\circ}C$ on the back. While a mean temperature on the chest was 33.3$^{\circ}C$, it was 33.1$^{\circ}C$ on the back.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.1021-1030
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop and make the head form by setting the region of the head for detailed measurement of the head to make the type of closely fit hat and typifying the head form of Korean women's with each region of the head based on the measurements of each region of the head according characteristics. A total of 285 Korean women's in the age group of 18 to 35 years old. It were measured through the direct measurement method by selecting 67 measurement items. As a result of the findings obtained from cluster analysis could be classified into 3 type. Type 1($46\%$) is U-shaped form, that is high in head height on sides and circumference is smallest, whose facial region and occiput is flattest of three types. Type 2($22.4\%$) is inverted triangle form, that is flat in head ridge, low in head height on sides and wide in the frontal width. Type 3($31.6\%$) is oval form, that is largest in size, has the projected occiput and is of three-dimensional form.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.30-40
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• 2000

The purpose of this research was to device thermal comfort model for radiation power plant workers in protective clothing. Three fabrics commonly used in protective workwear were made into coveralls of identical design and were evaluated by adult healthy males in four simulated work environment. It was investigated between the physiological response and subjects comfort according to environmental variance and clothing types. The of simulated work enviro mensent was controlled under four different humidity and temperature of each type. (Temperature 20±1℃, RH 40∼70%±5%, Temperature 30±1℃, RH 40∼70%±5%) An index of physiological response was connected with the thermal comfort designed. Mean skin temperature, skim temperature, Axillasy temperature ear canal temperature, clothing climate, total sweat, blood pressure, and R-R interval were be evaluated. Skin temperature difference ocurring during exercise and rest were significant only with respect to time and regions of the body, This despite physical differences in the three coveralls, particulary mass statistically experiment. Also, an index of subject wearing sensation was designed for thermal comfort after investigation determined the kind of clothes and the type of environment. As a result of this research, two types of multiple regressions was deviced to estimate thermal comfort of the protective clothing.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.235-245
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• 2000

The purposes of this study were 1) to investigate usage level of production strategies based on group of production environment, 2) to investigate usage level of production systems based on group of production strategy, and 3) to analyze each of company performance based on group of production strategy and system. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 215 apparel manufactures in metropolitan area from Feb. to Mar. 1998. Employing a sample of 201, data were analyzed by factor analysis, descriptive statistics, cluster analysis, discriminant analysis, and multivariate analysis of variance. The following are the results of this study. 1. Concerning production strategy due to group of production environment, the stable group and the complicated group prefer to rice/quality centered strategy but the level of usage for strategies is so pretty that it is not significant to carry out them. 2. Concerning production system due to group of production strategy, the workers centered group is occupied high in the price/quality centered group & the complex group. And also the product centered system is occupied high in the flexibility centered group. 3. Concerning company performance due to group of production strategy and system, the price/quality centered group holds low position of performance comparing to another groups. And the performance of the managers centered group is higher than that of the workers.