• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.22-39
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• 2013

This thesis aims to investigate the characteristics of the civil costume in Netherlands women and the way how the civil culture was reflected on these by analyzing the women's costume depicted in the works of the Johannes Vermeer regarded as the representative painter of Netherlands in 17th century. The method of study was to select 24 pieces of Vermeer's works among the 30 pieces, and were analyzed in detail. These were approved to be common civil costumes by researching the works of other painters in that era on the other hand. The result shows that the civil costume of Netherlands women from 1653 until 1675 was in the simple form of two pieces dress, and minimal decorations with simple hair style and headdress would take the constitution of the frugality, chastity and practicality as the mainstream, along with using the red, yellow and blue as the primary three colors on to the costumes. These characteristics might be ascribed to the Netherlands civil culture influenced by the Calvinism that emphasized the frugality and chastity, denouncing the luxury with supporting the religion and morality. This trend was also noted in the men's costume, giving evidence of the intimate relationship between the costume, religion and civil culture. This thesis might be a help to elucidate the relationship between the costume and cultural society, and be a affordable tools to study the contemporary costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.57-68
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• 2008

In this study, we prepared reference data needed for clothing design for middle-aged women by analyzing body satisfaction of their body shape, which had been classified by collecting body features of middle-aged women. As for the study method, we have set five scales from 'never satisfied' to 'very much satisfied,' after analyzing body features of middle-aged women by measuring their body shape through the body meter and auxiliary tools. We used the SPSS 12.0 statistics program, and the results are the following: Body shapes of middle-aged women can be classified into the following four types. A middle-age women with an 'A silhouette' has a normal height, but fat nether limbs. A 'Y silhouette' is short with a fat upper body. The 'O silhouette' is short with fat nether limbs and upper body, and 'H silhouette' is tall and thin. Body shape I has displayed satisfaction with her own body shape, and body shape II showed the most dissatisfaction compared to other body shapes. Body shape III showed satisfaction on all items except face size and breast size, whereas body shape IV was dissatisfied with her face size, neck length, shape of her breast, waist, and buttocks. The result of this study is expected to contribute in accomplishing clothing production that will satisfy the desire of the consumers in the clothing business, while being utilized as the basic data for clothing design that fits their body shape by grasping the changing patterns of their body shape.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.53-69
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• 2010

This study compared the work environment colors and the colors of working clothes by conducting a field survey of domestic machinery manufacturers who are playing a central role in Korean industries so as to develop and evaluate working clothes based on the safety of workers and environmental harmony. For the study method, after the color-related requirements were collected through interviews and field surveys, the fabrics for working clothes were woven and the colors were selected using the requirements. The designs of working clothes were developed with an emphasis on color design. The colors of the working clothes were also analyzed in their relationship to the working environment. The evaluations were separately performed for the appearance and the colors with workers of D machinery manufacturing company. The appearance and color satisfaction, safety, psychology, and harmony with environment were evaluated on a 5-point scale by workers and their safety managers. Furthermore, pictures of the workers in their existing working clothes and the newly developed working clothes were taken with a digital camera while they were working in the field. The RGB values of the pictures were extracted using Photoshop ver. 7.01, which were converted to HVC values using Munsell Conversion ver. 4.0.1. This study found that higher satisfaction levels were shown for the newly developed working clothes compared to the existing ones. The actual measurements also showed that the newly developed had higher brightness and clearer chromatic contrast than the existing ones, indicating higher explicitness and attention for safety of workers. These types of studies can contribute to the integrated working environment plan of machinery manufacturers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.111-125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is in the investigation to relieve into the clothing inconvenience levels and to need by arthritis patients who experience clothing difficulties in daily living even without showing conspicuous physical disabilities. For this study, personal interviews were carried out with 151 female arthritis patients, using a questionnaire form consisting of a total of 206 items. Data analysis were done with spss 12.0 for the frequency analysis, cross tab analysis, t-test, and ANOVA. The findings are as follows. 1. The survey subjects were diverse in their age from 20s to 60s and 18.5% of them have need of other's assistance at the time of getting dressed or undressed of clothing. The knee part was felt to be the most uncomfortable, causing the inconveniences in wearing pants or panties. 2. The investigation into the inconvenience levels at the time of dressing or undressing of clothing was indicated that the wearing of pants was the hardest movement to arthritis patients, as the items relating to the movements for putting feet into or pulling them out of pants and those for raising pants over the hip were also accompanied by the feeling of pains. In addition, the aged arthritis patients felt the clothes-wearing movements more difficult. 3. The survey on the kind and inconvenience levels for the clothes currently being worn showed the highest wearing ratio for the pants, which were pointed out to be the most inconvenient. 4. As for the clothing improvement, the needs were located as a whole in the sufficiency in measures of pants crotch and circumference items, the flexibility in materials, the short length of pants, or the front clearance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.46-62
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• 2013

This thesis aims to provide basic resources for the development of various uniform designs of cheerleaders by investigating the currently favoured uniform designs. The 13 professional cheerleader teams were existed among the 25 professional sports teams-9 baseball, 10 basketball and 6 volleyball teams. In each sports teams, four cheerleader's uniform were chosen and evaluated in terms of the cheerleader uniform design by analyzing the forms, colors, decorations and accessories. The result shows that the common kinds of design representing the symbolic color and the emblem were generally prevalent, instead of particular types of uniform design and subject in accordance with different kinds of the professional baseball, basketball and volleyball respectively. Throughout all the kinds of the sports, the combination of the sleeveless top and hot-pants were most frequently observed. In case of the skirts, the mini flare, wrap, and pleats skirts were the most prevalent, because it gave free to motion for cheerleading. The one-piece style were rather infrequent, comparing with the two-pieces, with the hourglass and fitted silhouette the most frequent type, and all those were mini in length. The sleeve in top were generally absent or short, however the bare top style was never found that the top would have a risk of being taken off downwardly during cheerleading. The accessories and the cheering tools were not so much used. The cap and headdresses were not many in kinds. The pompom, megaphone, tube stick, towel, umbrella and musical instruments would not be sufficient to play a role of tools for cheering, which suggests that the rather advanced tools or instruments for cheering in the sports need to be developed, not alone the uniform design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.43-58
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• 2015

Compulsive hoarding becomes a problem when the spaces hoarded items are stored in become unusable due to clutter, health, or safety issues. Our research purpose was to document relationships between two non-normative consumer behaviors (compulsive hoarding, compulsive buying tendency) and two shopping-related variables: hedonic shopping motives and emotional attachment to possessions with everyday consumers. As hedonic shopping motives have been related to compulsive buying, we predicted these motives (e.g., adventure, gratification, role, value, social, and idea) are related to compulsive buying. We also examined the relationship between compulsive buying and compulsive hoarding tendency and whether emotional attachment to possessions moderated this relationship. Participants were 280 undergraduate and graduate students attending a Midwestern university in the U.S. Regression analysis revealed the enhancing emotion motive (a combined motive of adventure and gratification) positively influenced compulsive buying whereas the value motive negatively influenced compulsive buying. All other hedonic shopping motives were non-significant. Participants who tended to buy compulsively were likely to hoard compulsively. This relationship, however, was moderated by participants' emotional attachment to possessions. Participants with high emotional attachment to possessions showed a higher level of hoarding behavior than those with low emotional attachment to possessions. However, the increase in hoarding tendency among participants with low emotional attachment to possessions was larger between those who were low in compulsive buying and those who were high in compulsive buying than the increase between these two groups among participants with high emotional attachment to possessions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.