• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.296-309
• /
• 2020

Carol Christian Poell is a designer famous for experimental designs and presentations. Poell's actions in the fashion-world resemble Fluxus, an anti-art group that started working in the 1950s. This study analyzed the works of Poell based on the characteristics of Fluxus and then compared the works of Poell with the performance of Nam June Paik, a Fluxus artist. We conducted literature studies and case studies. We examined the works of Poell and Paik based on the four characteristics of Fluxus: iconoclasm, unity of art and life, playfulness and chance. The results were as follows. First, they were engaged in anti-aesthetic works. While Paik concentrated on the content aspect of works, Poell was more focused on formal aspects. Second, neither of them distinguished between art and life. Paik achieved it by including audiences in his works; however, Poell attained it by adopting daily spaces as a place to display presentations and use ready-made forms. Third, they showed playfulness with a satirical nuance. Paik expressed it in an erotic way; however, Poell implied it through the irrational settings of circumstance. Finally, they created works by utilizing chance. Paik focused on auditory elements and the content aspects of works; however, Poell used the coincidence of visual and tactile elements when creating his works. This study compared the works of Poell with Paik and has its significance in its usefulness to understand designers with Fluxus characteristics in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.103-117
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study is to clarify the adaptation of beauty of traditional dress depicted contemporary Korean fashion design. For this purpose, the external form and the internal meaning based on 'the double roots' proposed by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin were analyzed in Korean traditional dress. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive and content analytic methods. And homospatial process was devised in order to develop the traditional identity in contemporary fashion design. The results were as follows: 1. As the external form, H. O. A silhouette, chogori, ch'ima, paji, and po concerning internal type, kaftan, flat form related to structured type were represented. Traditional color sense were love of white, contrasting as well as analogous color harmony shown often in nature phenomena, and temperate achromatic color harmony. Texture were characterized as rough and coarse expressing vividness, fine and smooth expressing delicateness and tenderness. As the internal meaning, the beauty of purity related to nature, tragedy, and symbolism were represented. 2. Since 1980's. Korean fashion designers frequently applied unstructural kaftan form and H silhouette to Korean fashion design, and sought natural and pliable line in whole dress. Use of white and achromatic color harmony as well as use of linnen were prominent. Designers' aesthetic consciousness was pursuit of the beauty of nature. Representative designers who concentrated on expressing traditional beauty were Lee Shinwoo, Sul Yoonhyung, Jin Taiok and others. 3. A homospatial process could be a method in the creative design which enables to express Korean identity in fashion design, and could suggest ideas of new designs full of Korean identity by superimposed and fused imaginery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.538-548
• /
• 2000

A study analyzes the eclectic trend shown in Andy Warhol look to explain the pluralistic aspect which is expressed in the late 20th century's fashion. Eclecticism is a trial to dismantle the barriers between pure art and popular art, high culture and low culture. This pursues harmonious accommodation and coexistence of all areas without being confined in the conventional lofty taste or high art. This thesis studies the characteristic aspects of the eclectic trend by classifying this trend into sell culture, mass media and fashion around the Andy Warhol look. The sexual eclectic trend in Warhol look is bisexual one shown in clubland and the world of modeling and supplies fashion with abundant expression and ambiguity. Warhol established cultural eclecticism by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion and escaped from the fixed idea on materials and design. Also he generalized and democratized specialty or nobility conventional paintings had possessed through introducing repetition and mediocrity and fully utilized every kind of mass media, Hollywood movie stars and daily necessaries in producing works. Andy Warhol who asserted‘Business Art’that was the mixed form of artistry and commercialism had creative and futuristic taste and proposed the direction to develop current fashion and art where the concept of economy is importantly brought into relief.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.28 no.4
• /
• pp.508-526
• /
• 2020

This study has established a fashion illustration education plan using the contour drawing that fosters observational ability and enables creative drawing. This study developed two illustration curriculum proposals consisting of 15 weeks, combining literature and case studies. The researchers organized a step-by-step teaching plan that utilizes contour drawing according to the three stages of fashion illustration classes: foundation courses, general courses, and intensive courses. When the contour drawing is used at the beginning stage of the foundation courses of fashion illustration, it can be used as a technique to reduce the fear of students about practical skills, induce interest in illustration, and cultivate observation ability about objects. In general process, it is combined with various tools and coloring materials to strengthen expression power, and it is possible to produce detailed expressions and illustrations about human body and clothing. In intensive courses, it is expanded to the production of creative works with new aesthetics through digital techniques and mixed materials. As such, the contour drawing is expanded in various ways according to the learning contents and goals of each step, and is flexibly adjusted according to the learning content. Contour drawing has the effect of acquiring observation and expression ability, and it is analyzed as a technique that enables the production of creative illustration of students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.6
• /
• pp.85-102
• /
• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 20th century by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts and studying functionalism in fashion design and architectural and product design by the comparative. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 20th century makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the moderns and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and comparative study have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism stressed in the beginning of the 20th century can be defined and categorized using three analogies, mechanical analogy of futuristic quality based on mechanical aesthetics and standardization by mass production, organic analogy in which the perfect beauty of nature is stressed on, moral analogy of fitness for purpose and absence of ornament based on integrity and sincerity. In while, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from those analogies. In comparative studies, functionalist fashion design and architectural and product design have the dissimilarity as well as the similarity of formative features. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.36 no.9
• /
• pp.13-33
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the styles of street fashion in youth sub-culture which has the leading power of 1990's Korean fashion flow. This topic has been explored in documentary studies about the youth sub-culture and the background of street fashion. Then, it also continued to classify street fashion styles in order to grasp the meaning as a young fashion. The results of this study are as follows. Street fashio of Korean youth are composed of four styles. ; The first is a hip-hop style. The hip-hop of Korea is started by 'Taiji Boys' and their representative apperances are the big-baggy pants, the reversed cap, the thrown backpack. The second is a reggae style. It is formed by the singer 'Kim Gun Mo'. It features the primary color and the use of ethnic fabrics. The third is a kitch style. The kitch is definitely represented by the old, the childish and the satire appearances. It came up with the rock band 'pipiband'. The forth is a sporty style. It comes from 'basketball' and 'skateboarding' which the young people prefer. Its designs are applied from the back-number of players, the names of the teams, the stripes of active-feeling. Based on this study, I designed cloths with 3 concepts to present a new design direction of Street Fashion. Work 1, 「JOY-RIDE」 represented the freedom and the release which are shown by pop music and dance. Work 2, 「GAMMA ENERGY」 represented the dynamic energy through sports games. Work 3, 「AROUND THE CORNER」 represented the form of street including comers, walls, roads etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.4
• /
• pp.396-407
• /
• 2011

Various media are expanding the fantastic expression methods and sphere wider than now. As an intermediate for expressing fully self-desires, fashion of the day has surfacing an important concept called fantastic that does not exist and surpasses reality in expressing the ideal body of a desiring body. Goth and cospre are personal expressions of movie costumes that visualize virtual reality as representative of fantastic fashions. The fantastic is a modem concept putting together SF, fantasy, magical realism, fable, and surrealism. Studies in fashion fields related to fantastic have treated fantastic illiberally and peripherally owing to the centering on the SF genre or fantasy. The thesis that dealt with an important fashion as an external favorite as well as the socio-cultural contents of the expressed body in genre expression remains inadequate. In research methods, this study carried out theoretical reviews on the concept and characteristic of the fantastic through literature data that includes local and international theoretical books, monographs, and dissertations that are related to the fantastic. The experimental analysis was executed by collecting fashion works shown after 2000 and included in special fashion editions, collection magazines, Internet materials, and monographs. The results show that the categorization of expression characteristic (according to fantastic spheres) appeared as 5 kinds such as uncanny borderline, cyborg grotesque, heroic superman, myth allegory, and unconscious meaninglessness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.1
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2010

This study analyzes the innovation process of the value chain in the fashion industry. It examines the differences between traditional and FF-based methods that include value chain processes such as design, production, and distribution-sales process. In the literature review and case studies, general propositions were drawn from each innovative stage by a comparison analysis. First, design speed is the main factor to explain the impact of IT in the design process. Second, small quantity batch production becomes main stream by the adoption of a computer-integrated manufacturing system in the production process. Third, cost reduction and speedup improvement are results of innovation in the distribution process. Last, a customized interface provides important information that can integrate the value chain and make useful customer relationships in the sales process. Fast fashion is the best product of these procedural innovations in the overall value chain. Consequently, this study confirmed that the general propositions referred above were acceptable and adaptable in the case of ZARA in terms of fast fashion strategy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.2 s.101
• /
• pp.112-124
• /
• 2006

Globally, several ethnic groups have expressed their spirit cultures based on their ethnic identity in diverse ways. Clothing has been one of the convenient objects to express ethnic identities. Therefore, patterns and colors used in traditional costumes have worked as a means to help understanding spirit cultures of ethnic groups. Since colors help strengthening solidarity of social members based on ethnic preference and community consensus, colors have performed a crucial role as a strategic tool in the fashion business closely related to consumers' individual characteristics. In survey results, color preferences of Korean and Italian specialists showed significant differences in signboard colors and disliked colors. Many Korean fashion specialists selected pink as a preferred color, black as a clothing color, red and white as a color with high visibility, and orange as a disliked color. In case of Italy, many specialists selected red and black as highly visible colors for a signboard, and green as a disliked color. In results comparing color preference for colors between Korean and Italian fashion design specialists, there were differences in color sensibility. Since this research used data from survey conducted using a very limited and much manipulated stimuli among a wide range of color schema and patterns, the study result may not be fully generalized. In future studies, more research using diversely segmented stimuli would be needed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.8 s.99
• /
• pp.144-153
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to make a Web Color Data Base for practical design system for domestic fashion industry. The market segmentation was based on the results of the previous studies and the characteristics of fashion consumers. Finally, the 14,121 color samples are collected from the survey of 55 manufacturers of domestic fashion industry and 116 fashion brands of major department stores. These color samples are analyzed by the Munsell's H V/C and CIE L*a*b* value. The representative colors are selected concerning the density in CIE L*a*b* color space and the distance between the color samples. As a result, We suggested 2213 representative colors. Also, this color data was constructed on Web site. The data were sorted by the market, season and color code. In addition, the representative color sample book was made for the prototype of .