• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2020

Recently, the luxury brand market has expanded from the 5060 market to the 2030 market segment due to diversification of distribution channels, an increase in income, and changes in consumption values. This change is attributed to the increase in sales of fashion accessory products, such as bags and wallets, thereby confirming the importance of the luxury brand fashion accessories market. However, there are few studies of the luxury brand fashion accessories market or brand loyalty for fashion accessories, which accounts for a large proportion of the overall luxury brand market. The purpose of this study was to develop and empirically test a theoretical framework that captures and compares the difference of impact of service quality, product attributes, and consumer satisfaction on luxury brand loyalty between the 20-30 market and the 5060 market of the fashion accessories market. Data was collected from 598 customers who purchased luxury brand fashion accessories by objective sampling. Structural equation modelling was used to test the hypotheses developed for the study. Results found evident effects of consumer satisfaction on luxury brand loyalty through the perception of service quality by consumers. Additionally, in the 2030 market, the fashion accessory attributes had little impact on consumer satisfaction and luxury brand loyalty, whereas in the 5060 market, it had a significant impact only on consumer satisfaction, but not on luxury brand loyalty. This is the first study to examine a structural equation model of luxury brand loyalty to compare the difference of the model between segmented markets, such as the 2030 market and the 5060 market of the luxury brand fashion accessories market. These results will contribute to a better understanding of the mechanism that underlie the operation of an effective luxury branding strategy for fashion accessories.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권2호
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• pp.204-216
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• 2015

Fashion is changing and evolving everyday with an influence from and over contemporary socio-cultural factors. Cartoons expressing the phenomena of times through exchanges of mutual effects with socio-cultural factors that result from functionality and media characteristics. This study examines how fashion provides a great correlation with society-culture expressed in cartoons. The research segment of this study was conducted with literature and case studies; in addition, the UK cartoon magazine "Punch" was selected for the case study. The research findings of the fashion satire expression in cartoon were divided into 2 cases. The first case is that fashion was used as an instrument to satirize socio-cultural phenomena in cartoons. Various fashion elements (hats, dresses, words on T-shirts) were used for satiric expressions and to express periodic images related to politics, economics, society and culture. It communicated factually or criticized noteworthy phenomenon or age changes through the symbolism of fashion. The second case is that fashion itself is the object of satire in a cartoon. It satirically described the blind following and destruction of stereotype as direct objects. Fashion satire appeared in cartoons regardless of a correlation with age. Each cartoon fashion satire had meaning in both humor and criticism for satirizing the age. This study shows that fashion symbolism for satire of the reality has been used as the instrument of expression and simultaneously expressed as the object of the critique as an image and phenomenon that reflects reality. This study has significance in that it examined expressive modes of fashion satire in cartoons that escape from separating fashion from cartoon as a different area.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.419-428
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• 2023

This study examines customer reviews from online stores of Korean vegan fashion brands to determine the qualities that customers value in vegan fashion items. For this purpose, we conducted a case study of online reviews-2,285 reviews were collected and analyzed. The results are as follows: The clothing evaluation criteria for vegan fashion products can be divided into four categories: aesthetics, material characteristics, affordability, and characteristics. This suggests that evaluation standards for vegan fashion items operate at multiple levels. The animal welfare aspect of the product was the most important factor, followed closely by how well the clothes fit. High-quality vegan materials and the use of recycled materials that are environmentally friendly were emphasized. The findings of this study suggest that even for vegan products, stylistic features remain an essential component of fashion items. To understand the main aspects of clothing evaluation criteria in the current vegan fashion market, this study differs from other studies in that it examined online reviews of vegan fashion brands. This comprehensive analysis contributes to a deeper understanding of customer preferences and highlights the importance of ethical considerations alongside style in the evaluation of vegan fashion items, providing valuable insights for the industry. Moving forward, this study is significant in suggesting that vegan fashion brands should develop their products as well as their brands, capitalizing on the demand for ethically conscious and stylish options.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.59-76
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought about environmental severity and new social, economic, and cultural changes. Conscious fashion, which is oriented to sustainable and valuable consumption, has become a trend to consume products produced using eco-friendly and ethical processes, from the selection of the product materials to the manufacturing process. The purpose of this study is to identify the concepts and characteristics of conscious fashion and zero waste, and to explore design trends of zero wastein the new normal era of conscious fashion through the analysis of various cases. The research method is a literature review on conscious fashion based on relevant professional and academic books and articles, designer collections, and campaigns from 2010 to the present, when conscious fashion as eco-friendliness and sustainable fashion became a trend. The concept and characteristics of conscious fashion were examined them in terms of environmental, ethical, social, and cultural aspects and the concept and characteristics of zero waste through previous studies and case analysis. Through this, the trends of zero-waste design in conscious fashion were categorized into: first, an eco-friendly design orientation that utilizes reuse and reduce methods of clothing and fabric; second, a variable design orientation that practices zero waste designs by using diversity of patterns through deconstruction, disassembly, and various cutting methods. Third, long-term circulation of design through the recycling of resources by second-hand trade, the utilization of stock clothing, resale, and availability of eco-friendly materials through the development of new technologies. As an active practice for the sustainable fashion industry expands, it is expected that continuous research will be conducted as a future core value to realize the possibility of long-term circular zero-waste design through social responsibility and conscious recycling, reuse, and reproduction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.143-155
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is elucidate the status and role of fashion house museums including art museums that are affiliated to luxury fashion brands. This study is significant in that it offers profound understanding of the history of luxury brands and the direction of communication these luxury brands are taking through online and offline museums. For research methods in this study, literature review and case studies were combined. Based on the luxury type classification by Sicard, the scope of research was determined to include the French classical luxury brands to modern luxury brands and contemporary luxury brands. Examining the current status of fashion house museums, it was found that Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art is an art museum operated by the luxury fashion brand, Cartier. Other fashion house museums in operation included $Herm{\grave{e}}s$ Museum, Foundation Louis Vuitton Museum, $Crist{\acute{o}}bal$ Balenciaga Museum, Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Gucci Museum, Christian Dior Museum, Prada Foundation Museum, Ferragamo Museum, Armani Silos, and so on. As for online museums, there was Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum. These luxury fashion brands' museums serves the following roles: provides references to the fashion industry professionals and researchers; differentiates the brand as means of experience marketing; promotes the brand and enhances brand communication through exhibitions of the founder and designers; archive the brand's design and builds the brand's history as a means of storytelling marketing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권10호
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• pp.1161-1174
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• 2011

An approach method of the semiotics theory is analyzing fashion: the look is that a sign represents one character and the image is interpreted as the destination of the changes. The fashion image interpretation by semiotics is possible because the fashion phenomenon by society has been accumulated in their abbreviation code. It is not possible to produce contradictions of the human imagination coined solution. The myth relieved to people, allowanced a meaning in the world and explained it have been unable to explain and protect us. Today's role of the world myth becomes the star's future. Public resting star's fashion image analysis promote that we understand the inherent desire. Madonna probably is one of the world's most famous women. To Create Madonna's own mythology staged image in various attire reveals symbolism. In this study, Madonna's fashion images, the myth 8 analysis of semiotics represent publicity. Madonna's album jacket 8 analysis of the myth. The fit and the relationship between the star and myths closely is obvious. The Madonna fashion image investigate that so forth implied myth into duality of feminine, upset of gender roles, upset of sexual roles, object of worship. In addition to the creation of these myths are based on sensuality heterosexual fashion images, body-conscious look, lingerie look, Androgynous Look, Dominatrix Look in the fashion style of the images, fashion items made to body suit, bra top, black panties, black boots, long gloves, pink, red, gold, satin, and leather; the addition, there are exaggerated props and accessories. These use such as the human body building wave blond hair. This study through Madonna's fashion image, semiotics analysis is acquainted with suitable means of myth.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.265-281
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• 2018

Government policy supporting the fashion industry in Korea has focused on the future development of rising fashion designer's brands, and as a part of this support, several Fashion Creative Studios are presently operated. The purpose of this study is to identify the meaning of these facilities and suggest development strategies for their effective utilization. This paper presents a conceptual understanding based on a literature review, and deduces the direction of Fashion Creative Studios through an exploratory analysis of various case studies and in-depth interviews with five designers, who have graduated from the Seoul Fashion Creative Studio. The results are as follows. Firstly, fashion educational institutions have to provide sufficient information about the Fashion Creative Studios to students. They can also consider adding short-term residencies to the curriculum in which students prepare collections or portfolios for the studios. Secondly, Fashion Creative Studios are required to intensify business and marketing programs to increase real-world support. It would be helpful to provide 1:1 management programs with several segmented stages for the design brands, or connect them to investors who could provide financial support and business expansion. Thirdly, Fashion Creative Studios need to find a way to strengthen textile differentiation and craft characteristics to increase designer brand competitiveness. Broadening participation with textile designers, connecting with experts and ateliers, and promoting collaboration with artists and artisans in the Arts Creative Studios can be further examined to this end.