• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.64-72
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the changing fashion image of the glossy materials including metal, leather, vinyl, latex, plastic etc. from 1960's to the present. Glossy materials used in the second half of the 20th century showed a restricted image combined with a specific social circumstance. They expressed a reflection of young and future-oriented space period of 1960s. Many designers like Paco Rabanne and Andre Courreges were concerned with the fashion of space age and expressed that image with leather and synthetic materials including silver leather, metal chain armor, and plastic appeared as the keynote of fashion. In 1970's, glossy material was the symbol of avant-garde and rebellious attitude by the punk fashion. They maximized glamourous look of 1980s, and cyber look with an expectation for a new millenium of 1990s. On the other side, glossy materials seem to be used as a source of various inspiration of fashion designer in the 21st century. Also, some of the past images, for example space look and glamourous look, are revived in the 21 st century by the form of modified design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.27-34
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• 2006

Flexibility, love of symbols, small size-these are all qualites that accompany the proclivity towards compactness in Japanese culture. They developed and have been refined to an unusual level in Japan partly out of the necessity to use limited space economically, but these qualities also characterize the aesthetic preferences of the people. Because space is so precious, it receives a great deal of attention in every aspect of life. Over the centuries Japanese have devised innumerable ways to use space that are ingenious in their successful combination of pragmatism, harmony, and beauty. Folding, stacking, rolling, nesting, carrying, consolidating, miniaturizing and transforming are some of the techniques for living that have created the compact culture. Folding allows a one-dimensional object to be placed in prescribed small space. Stacking objects of the same shape makes use of vertical space, saving valuable horizontal space. Rolling an object reduces it to a tidy cylinder without creasing it, creating yet another form of repose for functionally flat things. Nesting several identically shaped objects of graduated sizes is known as ireko. Carrying things by hand makes them available for any occasion, by plan or on impulse. Consolidating is to bring together the multifarious systems of living into an integrated whole. Miniaturizing things is a way to bring even the universe down to the scale of a human hand. Transforming the face of things is another notable propensity in the Japanese life style. Each one is put to use in countless ways, suggesting principles and conceptions that encapsulate the wisdom of tradition. In this study I wishes to investigate the principals of Japanese traditional design and the applied case in fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.155-170
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• 2008

Club culture is the global trend for youth in 21st century. Club is the space that is created with close relationship among music, dance and fashion. It is also experimental cultural art space with endlessly transforming style. Furthermore it is a space for independent minor culture which represents speciality than generality of cultural appetite and style of club. Cultural communities formed around club and their parties have placed as a strong subculture trend based on youth age group. What they are creating as a subculture could be our tomorrow's main trend and clubbers also could be our major power sources for future. Therefore it is necessary to pay attention to club culture. The purposes of this research are to identify the concept of clubber, to analyzes their basic club culture characteristics and elements, and to find out unique fashion styles of Korean clubber in comparison with the origin. To study club fashion style's origin and background, this study searched a theoretical flow from 1930's to 1990's. Then, Korean clubber's style is derived by comparing background and origin of Korean club culture with those of abroad. To analyze in various point of view, theoretical backgrounds about social, cultural, dresses, and design were considered. Since research target is a visual image, street fashion is analyzed on through, music channels and magazines from 1930's to present as well as designer's art photographies. Internet sites', cub culture association's and sound association's photos were also extracted. as a visual evidences to offer actual evidences. Geological targets are selected among Korean club culture's origin such as Hong-Ik University area, Shin-chon, Chungdam-dong and Apgujung-dong areas. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, clubber's fashion style influenced magnificently on major fashion design instead of being just youngster's resistance toward control group and it is contributing to our fashion culture to enrich it. Secondly, fashion styles of korean clubbers are based on those of western sub-culture, but with a unique localized history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.45-58
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• 2007

This study shows that clothes are made just the same as the real thing in the virtual space through 3D digital technology. This study is significant to expand the area of fashion design in the virtual space. This study analyzes the practical use of the third dimension computer graphics in the aspect of fashion, and it is proposed the 3D fashion design simulation in the virtual space used on 3D studio max, poser, photoshop program according to fashion design process. The main design concept is "temporary bridge" from rainbow. "Temporary bridge" is a rainbow bridge which connects nature, man and technology, and also the past, present, and future. This study is supposed six fashion design in accordance with three sub-theme under main concept by changing rotor and texture used on 3D simulation. The conclusion are as follows : First fashion design process, which consists of design conceptualization, design definition, and computer design process, composed of body modeling, clothing modeling, texture mapping, rendering by lighting and camera establishing are compared. Second, fashion design process is applied to digital technology. Third, the method of body modeling is both that of direct modeling in 3D Studio Max and that of importing DXF file from poser. And the method of direct clothing modeling in 3D Studio Max are two methods, polygon modeling and nurbs modeling. Polygon modeling is more satisfied than nurbs modeling in the aspect of expression to clothing and round face. Forth, this study applies textures and colors transformed by photoshop on manufactured 3D Clothes. According to this result, fashion designers are able to confirm a customer or client in their design minds viewing 3D simulation by various textures. colors and angles. It is able to advance digital fashion show in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.515-526
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• 2009

From traditional ceremony to science technology, origami was used as technique for artistic creativity and functionality based on formative characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive characteristics of functionality in fashion design using origami technique. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, fashion magazines, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In various fields of design, the category of the expressive characteristics was classified as efficient correspondence of space, compositive convergence of function, variable potentiality of form and human ergonomic optimum. In recent origami fashion based on functionality, the efficient correspondence of space was expressed constructive or decorative pocket design, using on clothing surface and varied design by lifestyle. The compositive convergence of function was expressed innovative connection of fashion items or non-fashion items and deconstructed classical clothing pattern. The variable potentiality of form was expressed control of form by irregular fold, dynamic metamorphosis by organic fold and creation of varied clothing silhouette. The human ergonomic optimum was expressed metamorphosis mechanism from two dimension to three dimension, suitable construction to physical ability and limit and organic form based on articular folding. The functional origami fashion means reflection of nomadic lifestyle, maximum of usability, pursuit of playful sensibility, creation of new body aesthetic and pursuit of technology and humanism. And the result of these study may be used for creative inspiration in fashion design because of unique characteristics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.102-118
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to derive the characteristics of fashion that appeared in the daily life of bourgeois women in Paris in the late 19th-century, and to examine the attitudes women showed toward fashion in the modernized city of Paris. The research method was a literature study and a visual data analysis study targeting fashion of bourgeois women from 1860s to 1900s out of Mary Cassatt's 155 works and Berthe Morisot's 147 works from Wikiart's digital images. The characteristics and attitudes showed in fashion in terms of women's painter's work, women's daily life, and women's space are as follows. First, while the subject matter of their works was restricted to the house, fashion was described with the sensual colors, elegance, and sophistication anticipated of a woman's nature. The represented attitude toward women and fashion includes advice for pursuing the dignity of maternal love and women's intellectual life, as well as an attempt to reflect a current point of view on the woman image. Second, the daily life of bourgeois women was childcare, needlework, reading, and grooming. They valued socialization and entertainment as well as intimacy and education with children, so they wore different clothes depending on the situation. This suggested that it was necessary to dress appropriately both at home and when going out. Third, despite the fact that the public space for women was limited, they dressed elegantly in a variety of trends when they went out. This was fashion worn only for appearance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.928-940
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• 2012

The present study aimed to propose the competitive strategy to fashion brand franchise stores by analyzing articles regarding success stores as published in fashion magazines. A total of 91 articles were selected from three fashion magazines and content analysis was applied to extract major factors. Four types of trading areas and eight product types were compared by the major factors. As results, six major factors composing competitive strategy were analyzed such as personal selling, management of sales forces, promotion, customer relationship management, management of store space, and relationship with headquarter. Comparing competitive factors by the types of trading area, management of sales forces and personal selling were crucial for central district and for outlets/interchange district. On the other hand, personal selling and customer relationship management were important for local district while management of store space and personal selling were critical for tenants of the large discount store/shopping mall area. Comparing by product types, personal selling was the most important factor for all product types except young casualwear whereas the second important one was management of sales forces for adult casualwear, womenbbbs wear, and others. For menbbbs wear, sales promotion was the second important one whereas management of store space was the second crucial one for underwear and childrenbbbs clothing. Based on the present study result, it is proposed that competitive strategy of individual fashion brand franchise store should be differently developed because the characteristics of trading area and product type are different and in turn, customers benefit and competition might be different.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.246-252
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the factor structure in Clothing Silhouette Image and the differences of Image Evaluation related to Grouping of Line and Grouping of Body Emphasis using Silhouette Image Factor and Life Space as variables. Clothing Silhouette Image was estimated by the photographs of 9 Life Spaces ${\times}$ 23 Clothing Silhouettes with 15 semantic differentiated by-polar scales. The major finding were : The factor structure of Clothing Silhouette Image were found to include 4 factor dimensions-Capability Evaluation, Function, Activity. It was clear that Silhouette Image were affected by Life Spaces. There were the differences of Image Evaluation related to Grouping of Line and Grouping of Body Emphasis. There were the differences of Life Space Evaluation related to Grouping of Line and Grouping of Body Emphasis. Therefore it is important to considerate Life Space for selecting Clothing Silhouette.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.35-47
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• 2006

This study aims to suggest the Deconstruction theory that is changing and developing by being converted into visual from as cultural code which reflects the spirit of the times and art style as well as to analyze the phenomenon of deconstruction expressed in the Fashion photographs. Fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. Fashion photographs is direct information about the fashion itself, and at the same time, it transmits various circumstances of the times. Fashion photographs has opened a new aspect called visual communication, when it's seen in new, more profound way, instead of being locked in its visible frame. Photograph is no longer a mere means to preserve documentation or pursue artistic expression. Instead, it's now regarded as a way to pursue visual transmission owing to its cognitive psychology, and this is a remarkable step toward new thing. In this study, the possible visual information function of photograph was explored from diverse aspects, such as the combination of photo and design, its linking to printing technology's mass production function, or the development of its imagery symbolism. This study shows that the nature of deconstruction can be explained as deconstruction of the sexes, deconstruction of the time and space, and deconstruction of the genre.