• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.372-378
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to compare the self consciousness of one's body cathexis with other people's. The sample subjects were 97 females between 18 and 24 years old. They were measured on November 1999 with the anthropometric measuring, and their front and side photographs were taken. First, we investigated the size recognition of 5 body parts and ready-made clothing, the consciousness of the size of 5 body parts and body proportion for subjects. Second, we organized panel group consisted of 30 females in twenties majoring the Clothing & Textiles. The consciousness of panel group to the subject's body proportion was investigated by using the front and side photographs of subjects, and was compared with self consciousness of subjects. Data were analyzed by frequency analysis and correlation analysis. Most of subjects recognized their status, bustgirth and waistgirth larger than their real size, but they recognized their hipgirth smaller than their real size and their weight similar to their real weight. And subjects were conscious of their status and bustgirth small, their weight, waistgith and hipgirth proper or a little big, and their body proportion normal or a little unbalanced. The self consciousness of one's body cathexis was related to heights of each part especially, and subjects had a tendency to appreciate their body proportion positively if they recognized themselves tall and thin. Upon comparison of the consciousness of subject's body between subjects themselves and panel group, the appreciation of panel group was better than those of subjects themselves. And we also certified the difference of consciousness of one's body cathexis between oneself and other people. The consciousness of other people was related to the size of each body part, but the self consciousness was predicted that it was more related to the psychological factor including satisfaction or preference.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권5호
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• pp.423-436
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• 2001

The present study focused on the color of clothing for elderly Korean women, from the viewpoint of helping elderly people live more interesting lives with regard to their clothing, considering that the Korean society will become elderly-oriented in the near future. We took photographs of the elderly served as the models, displayed them on a computer screen, and produced 75 colors of the clothing in the elderly using computer graphics. The 75 colors were evaluated by 2 groups, one of elderly Korean woman group and a group of female students. We compared the ideal colors for and the colors actually worn by elderly people. The evaluation of the clothing colors for elderly women differed between the elderly woman group and the female student group. Analysis of images of the clothing colors selected by the elderly women showed that they attach importance to elegance when selecting clothing colors and have a strong desire to become active. The images held by female students concerning ideal clothing colors for elderly women closely pertained to commonness and inactivity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.796-811
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• 2010

Research materials of Korean traditional shoes have so far been mainly literary explanations or plane pictures expressed on the basis of the explanations and photographs of incomplete forms of relics excavated and it makes us have difficulty in observing them visually and producing products with them by design application. This project is to establish database of literal data of Korean traditional shoes and visual data using 3D in order to make the foundation of developing culture industry contents using Korean traditional shoes. According to the initial research plan. first. it analyzed and arranged the Korean traditional shoes into period. sex and function as the research goals of the first year. categorized the form. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes and then database of the materials was performed with text. Second. visual image materials including forms. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes were established as database with scanner. digital camera and computer 2D. Results of such a database will be able to be used as important materials which can be the foundation of culture industry contents development of traditional shoes and be the materials for developing digital culture contents of traditional shoes and teaching Korean traditional culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권9_10호
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• pp.1253-1264
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• 2005

The background, concept, and design characteristics of the Caports style, which comes into new domestic fashion trend of sportism, are discussed in this article. Analysis are performed with utilizing pictures, advertizements of fashion magazine such as Vogue Korea, Fashionbiz, Ceci, etc., and photographs from internet sites, domestic papers since 2002. The result of this study is as followings: New life style, arose from the change of social and cultural environment, such as increase in leisure time, fusion and well-being trend, begins to be reflected in caports style in the form of stress on utility and functionality. The caports style is a fusion style based on sports wear with character and fashion. And, it can be adapted as a sports wear and daytime wear. With respect to the form, it emphasizes healthy body line, and as for the material, it strikingly utilizes various and functional materials. It also shows active and cheerful image using bright color, and utilizes functional and decorative details such as line-tape, zipper, hood. The most important characteristic of the caports style is to present a new liberal style by mix & match, layering, and exposing

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.60-74
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• 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.61-77
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• 2017

Although three-dimensional measurement systems for the human body have been studied, there is still an error between the measurements by the two-dimensional measurement method and the three-dimensional scanning method. Especially, in the case of the breast, the outline is not clear. The breast is made up of subcutaneous fat and mammary gland tissue, and it is easy to deform, making it difficult to grasp the exact shape. It is also more difficult to measure photogrammetry or three-dimensional measurement because it is difficult to obtain subjects because of the shame they are reluctant to expose. In this study, the angle and length of the line connecting the measurement points of the breast detail measurement items were compared with the unchanged measurement items such as breast width and center front length using the frontal and lateral photographs taken before and after breast enlargement surgery. The results of the study are as follows. The types of breast before and after surgery were classified into two groups and showed high accuracy rate. Therefore, it was possible to classify the breast type using the frontal and lateral views of the breast, and it was found that The PRM method can distinguish the characteristics of the breast type. Therefore, it can be useful for classifying and discriminating breast types.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.