• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.155-163
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• 2021

This design proposal research is meaningful as Jogakbo can retain the traditional value of the it's design as it becomes a contemporary design proposal. As a specific method of research, history was been investigated to find meaning and formative characteristics defined through prior research under the theme of Jogakbo. Ideas, such as silhouettes, details for design, and the making domestic and foreign designer examples were obtained. The fabric used for the works were recycled from past leather works. All materials are sheep skin. There were various processed surfaces used to avoid monotony. Jogakbo's cotton composition focused on free and radial patterns. The pattern was manufactured using a flat and 3D combination, and the selection of items was mainly made with a simple and light silhouette, so that Jogakbo's details, such as dresses, slip dress, and vests could stand out. Color is an important factor in Jogakbo. However, traditions which are relics of the times, do not need to be preserved in their original form. If changes are inherited with reasonable grounds and directions in line with the changing times, the significance and values are retained are sufficient. It is hoped that these design development studies will continue in the future so that our precious cultural heritage can continue to change and develop positively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.34-50
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• 2021

As silver surfers'(older people who are good at surfing the Internet) SNS use and influence increase, SNS shopping channels are also favored as the major means of contactless shopping. The study analyzed the trends in fashion styles corresponding to taste on the SNS shopping channels with silver surfer women as the target. Even though the shopping channel was for people in their 50s and 60s, most of the design factors focused on casual styles and young taste rather than the formal and mature image. The material, trim, and patterns reflected a retro or formal factor but were also reinterpreted as a young image to show the various forms. The characteristics of the women's fashion styles for silver surfers on the SNS shopping channels can be summarized as follows. First, they chose items that portrayed a young image regardless of their age. The colors, materials, and patterns of the products also helped to create a young image. Second, there was a tendency to pursue various casual items. Silver surfer women chose practical, casual items because of their active lifestyle. Third, retro items were reinterpreted as young and trendy. Silver surfer women showed their retro tastes but preferred practical clothing with young images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.241-248
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• 2022

This study aims to provide basic data to suggest guidelines for re-education and work improvement of modelists based on the analysis of the current status of modelist work and education. A survey was conducted from January 4 to May 15, 2020, targeting 44 people working in pattern, pattern CAD, and grading in domestic apparel companies. Descriptive statistical analysis and frequency analysis using SPSS 25 were employed to analyze the status of work type, work difficulties, and re-education. For pattern production, the rate of using pattern CAD for business was high. It was found that companies mainly use YUKA CAD (63.8%), and branded companies use pattern CAD (100%). It was found that 3D CAD is mostly employed by vendors (88.9%), and CLO (90%) is mainly used. Regarding difficulties in pattern making, it was found that they experienced difficulties with stretchable materials owing to the amount of shrinkage and sagging of the fabric. The work problem was the lack of requisite working hours owing to the volume of work. Regarding future re-education, 63.6% of the total respondents indicated that they required a course related to pattern correction and material. Moreover, it was found that re-education was necessary to upgrade technology and acquire new knowledge, however, information on re-education was insufficient.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.88-107
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• 2023

This study aimed to understand the current status of practice for sustainability in luxury fashion brands. A total of five luxury brands (Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Gucci, Burberry, and Prada) were selected. Each company's official website, sustainability reports, and articles on sustainability practices were compiled. In addition, analysis was performed based on criteria of sustainability such as environmental, social, economical, and cultural dimensions. As a result, the biggest commonality of the five brands was that they promoted the most active change in the environment. These brands tried to reduce energy consumption in materials and production processes. Among them, Burberry, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton had their own departments for sustainability. However, there were differences in strategies of activities between brands for social, economical, and cultural sustainability. Among the five companies, Burberry and Gucci pursued sustainability strategies the most aggressively. They separated their sustainability strategies in terms of environmental, social, economical, and cultural aspects and shared them with consumers. A set of outcomes for the plan were provided as objective data. The sustainable management strategy has become a key strategy for long-term growth of the luxury brand market. To survive in the market, luxury brands should elaborate sustainable management strategies and actively share them with consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.127-135
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• 2008

The study purpose was to increase Han-bok's convenience by changing materials while maintaining keep the traditional Han-bok style. For this purpose we surveyed actual Han-Bok wearers about the inconveniences of its form and design by combining knit with Han-bok. On the basis of this survey, we present a practical design for use in daily fife. Responding to the question about Jeo-Go-Ri(jacket), most respondents preferred a Han-bok which stressed elasticity by utilizing knit on Jeo-Go-Ri's front and back body line(JD1, JD4). For the question about ann holes, most respondents liked a design which substituted knit materials for Sam-hoi-jang(colorful strips) to ensure ease of use and shorten both the width and length of the breast-tie(JD2, JD3). For the sleeve edge, they preferred a design which solved the difficulties of rolling up the sleeve when working ($JD2{\sim}JD5$). Regarding the most inconvenient aspect of wearing Chi-mas(skirts), the respondents indicated tightening of the breast and an uncomfortable feeling due to the skirt length. This suggested that the waist of the vest should be lengthened to avoid the feeling of pressure(CD2, CD5). Regarding changes to the skirt shape the respondents preferred buttons and hooks rather than using skirt strings(CD4, CD5).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.151-171
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.68-75
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• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.635-643
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• 2011

This study was investigated to evaluate the physiological responses on T-shirts manufactured with selected functional materials by body parts which were selectioned on the distribution of sweating and temperature change. Seven healthy men in twenties were participated in a climate chamber of $27{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}1%RHC$. Three kinds of T-shirts named 'D1', 'D2' and 'Poly' were used as experimental clothings. Four kinds of functional materials of quick absorbing/drying were used in all section in 'D1', but two kinds of functional materials used partially in 'D2'. 'Poly' T-shirts used only polyester. In an experimental schedule of 90 minutes, which were consisted of 'Rest', twice of 'Exercise' and twice of 'Recovery' periods, the subjects walked on a treadmill with 60% of $VO_2max$. As a physiological responses, the microclimate temperature, surface temperature(skin, clothing) and sweat rate were measured. Temperature regulation was kept well in 'D1' rather than other T-shirts. The quick absorbing/drying T-shirts showed its performance well as the exercise goes on the second half. With these results in mind, 'D1' will be more effective for long hours exercise such as climbing rather than short hours exercise.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.52-61
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• 2007

To increase the ultraviolet radiation (UVR) protection of cotton fabric, ultraviolet protection (UVP) materials were treated onto cotton fabric using a new technique, UV-curing. A photocrosslinkablepolymer, poly(ethylene glycol) dimethacrylate was used as a UV-curable resin in the presence of a small amount of photoinitiator. Two kinds of UVP materials were used, UV-absorber, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, and UV-scatterer, $TiO_2/ZnO$ Pad-dry-cure method in employing these materials onto cotton was also conducted to compare the effectiveness and the washfastness of UVP treatment between curing methods. UVP treated cotton fabric showed a moderate increase in UVP in case of 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone treatment and a high increase in case of $TiO_2/ZnO$. UV-curing method increased the washfastness of UVP property of $TiO_2/ZnO$ treated cotton fabrics. However, in case of 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, similar wash fastnesses of UV-cured and pad-dry-cured cotton were observed. It can be presumed that 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone was not significantly affected by water since its hydrophobicity. In short, UV-curing of UVP materials onto cotton was successfully done, and treated cotton fabrics showed the increased UVP properties and an increased washfastness in some extent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.336-352
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.