• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1464-1475
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• 2006

This thesis is purported to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey on the glamour look in fashion, and to conduct a case study by conducting survey of fashion photographs captured in an internet site called Firsview(www.firstview.com) during most recent ten-year period covering $pr\^{e}t-\`{a}-porter$ design products presented by ten leading Italian designers. Based upon the historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour, (2) hyperfeminine glamour, (3) kitsch glamour, and (4) romantic glamour. Luxury glamour looks were most often utilized by fashion designs of Valentino and Armani, which can be characterized by frequent usage of glittering details intended to emphasize the surface decoration. Hyperfeminine glamour looks were characterized by the frequent usage of black color in an effort to create fetish atmosphere or sensuality, which can be discovered from the fashion designs of Versace, Cavalli and Ferre. Kitsch glamour looks were characterized by the appropriation of details of vulgar subcultural features mixed with strong color combinations and ethnic trimmings. Versace, Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana were the main designers of kitsch glamour looks. Finally, romantic glamour looks, which were mainly expressed by Valentine, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, were characterized by nostalgia and luxury with light colors and materials such as lace and transparent fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.577-584
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• 2005

The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1135-1145
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to identify the desired seIf-images of male college students according to situations, and to construct fashion product unities bought by male college students for different situations. Empirical data were collected by self-administered questionnaires distributed to male students at 4 universities and 2 colleges in Daegu and Gyeongbuk area during June 2005, and 346 were analyzed, eliminating incomplete ones. Subjects were required to respond to 32 desired image words in 4 different situations respectively: school, meeting girlfriends, ceremonies, and exercises. As a result of factor analysis on desired self-image words, 5 factors were determined: refined image, sporty image, classic image, natural image and simple image. Based on the desired self-image factors, male college students were classified into 3 groups: selective image management group, passive image management group, and active Image management group. Fashion product unity of male college students for the school setting was consisted of round shirts, jeans, running shoes, bags and watches. Aloha shirts/knitted shirts/V-neck shirts, cotton pants/jeans/semi -formal pants, formal shoes/running shoes and watches were the fashion product unity for the setting of meeting girlfriends. For the setting of ceremonies, the fashion product unity included Y-shirts, formal dress, formal shoes, neckties and watches. And for the setting of exercises, the fashion product unity included cotton shirts, training suits, running shoes/jogging shoes/basketball shoes, armguard and caps.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.327-337
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• 1999

Primitive men's primordial formative activity derives from incarnation contained in intensive vitality and strong creativity mind. The trend of modern fashion requiring the boundless imagination can be called that it, just, itself, has something in common with basic spiritual activity that primitive men had. What is concerning how modern fashion designers have developed formative language through enchanting primitive art is as follows. 1. The nature's mysterious power appears to be transformed into personified image. The incarnation for acquiring beauty, power, prestige of genius appears in the form of personification, making use of mask in modern fashion. 2. As for primitive men, the whole universe has a potentiality as a symbol. The symbolism of primitive art based on religion and myth appears in modern art as the form of presenting oppositional objects together in one space. 3. Primitive art is the purest form and the most unpolluted. This shows the natural quality being assimilated into nature, which is expressed in modern fashion as intensity, free-spirit, simplicity, etc. 4. The primitive men's anxiety to the outside world appears as impulse. The geometrical form of primitive art occurred in the shape of impulse appears in expressional form of modern fashion. 5. The real existence in primitive art inducing real materials and objects, in themselves, into formative world appears in modern art in the way of expression such as repetition, enlargement, exact reproduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.157-176
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• 1995

The purpose of this treatise is to study external form and internal meaning of minimal expression fashion which appeared as a major stream in modern fashion trends to understand one aspect of modernism in fashion and also to gain insight into internal value of human beings through fashion. The results can be summarized as follows : Firstly , minimalism is a trend in art attempting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means and minimal production process. Secondly, minimal expression in fashion means seeking simplicity an dpurity by using minimum design elements and minimal productive process. Thirdly, external from of minimal expression fashion can be created through application of following minimal expression techniques. 1. Minimal expression techniques in terms of line mean smooth curve flowing along body contours, straight lines of diagonal lines into desciplined silhouette or rendering internal contour lines. 2. Minimum expression techniques in terms of forms mean forms of smooth curves flowing along boyd or forms with simple geometric forms from qualitative aspects, In terms of volume it means quest for essence of pure body itself by revealing body as it is by minimizing the size of dress or its area and herein is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns.3. Minimal expression techniques by colors mean simple colors such as primary colors, colors without clear distinctions or natural colors and in terms of quantity it means quest for one color within one item of dress or combination of each items when getting dressed. 4. Minimal expression techniques in terms of fabrics mean fabrics with simple surfaced. In terms of quantity it means quest for essence of tight fitting thin textiles to human body or using transparent materials to human body thus exposing body contours as it is. 5. Minimal expression techniques in terms of productive process mean minimizing process of tailoring , sewing or ornamenting and seeking for simplicity and purity. 6. Minimal expression techniques in terms of manufacturing process mean selection of technique conveying simple image with disciplined simple image. Fourthly, minimal expression fashion with external expression as mentioned in the above lay body-priority style and its internal meaning can be asummed as quest for essence and purity of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.57-72
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• 2012

Interest in the environment is rising in all the sectors of industry and culture. Even in the fashion industry, fashion designers have recently begun delivering messages on the environment. In particular, $Issey$ $Miyake$ has been constantly interested in environmental issues, and has been deemed as a designer who values practicality and universality in clothing. This study seeks to examine Issey Miyake's fashion from the perspective of an eco-friendly design. This research analyzed collections of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980 to 2010 through photo works and www.firstview.com. The research method was to study 8 people who have professionalism in fashion design and have analyzed 201 works of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980s to 2000s that have the characteristics of eco-friendly design. The results showed the following characteristics of eco-friendly design in Issey Miyake's fashion : naturality, simplicity, sustainability and transformability. First, $Issey$ $Miyake$ preferred natural materials and used Japan traditional dyeing that integrated modern techniques for naturality. Second, he expressed simplicity in his fashion by applying the least cutting and sewing in geometric panels. Third, he pursued sustainability with comfortable clothing that anyone could wear regardless of trend, age and body shape. Finally, he developed the A-POC system that eliminated the usual needs for cutting and sewing and tried transformability on clothing using buttons, strings, belts, zippers, and layered styling.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.856-865
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• 2011

This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.632-648
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• 2018

This study aims to contribute to the development of sports wearables. It was conducted by a convergence team of professionals in the fashion industry, kinesiology and sports studies, and computer science and engineering. The purpose of the current study was to design and develop a fabric-type fitness band for a sensor to measure acceleration during jump rope exercises. Computer science and engineering professionals developed the Arduino board and sensor, kinesiology and sports studies provided the necessary exercise protocol, and the fashion industry professionals developed the band. First, a fitness band preference survey was completed by men and women between the ages of 20 and 50. Typical uses of the band included tracking exercise amount as measured by the number of steps taken and calories burned. Strap watch closure, a single color and achromatic color, and soft and smooth touch materials were preferred as band design. Second, two fabric-type fitness bands were designed and developed. Design 1 had a 3-dimensional pocket for the sensor, bright blue color, and stretch binding around the edges and for a loop. Design 2 had a flat pocket for the sensor, achromatic color, mesh binding around the edges and two metal loops. Both designs had Velcro as a closure. Third, wear testing of both bands with the sensor were conducted of 15 women in their 20s. They wore the bands during jump rope exercises. Both bands generally satisfied the participants. The Design 2 band was slightly more satisfying than the Design 1 band.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.