• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.836-850
• /
• 2011

The modern fashion photograph is interpreted as diverse versions via individual perspectives and thus induces meaning as individuals compose diverse worlds. The researcher perceived the act of reading the significance of the modern fashion photograph from the aspect of the diverse worlds that the receivers comprise, and the researcher sought to highlight this with the ways of worldmaking, as in Nelson Goodman's concept of irrealism. This study sought the transitional structure of the significance of fashion photographs through the irrealism of Goodman and theoretically considered the way in which the worldmaking was organized. The study collected fashion photos shown in fashion magazines and fashion brand catalogs from 2005 to 2010 for a study of the precedent theories and a survey of photographic materials to select characteristics based on Goodman's Ways of Worldmaking. Goodman suggested the five ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, deletion and supplementation, and ordering as the ways of worldmaking. The composition and decomposition way leads to habit and perpetuation due to existing concepts or intimateness. It can also be considered that the composition and the decomposition way occur coincidentally with other ways due to the previous worlds in which users connote during the process through which the fashion photos were composed and decomposed, deformed, weighted, and ordered. Therefore, this study researched the four ways of composition and decomposition, deformation, weighting, and ordering by integrating them into fashion photos based on the five types of ways reviewed through a theoretical consideration.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제6권4호
• /
• pp.32-45
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제45권1호
• /
• pp.136-154
• /
• 2021

'Slow fashion' has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제30권5호
• /
• pp.732-751
• /
• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권6호
• /
• pp.720-737
• /
• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권8호
• /
• pp.113-122
• /
• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제20권4호
• /
• pp.163-174
• /
• 2018

Consumer and property evaluation of wetsuit materials were conducted to obtain useful data for developing competitive products that meet consumer expectations and improving industrial competitiveness. Data were collected through online surveys of 213 domestic consumers who have experienced wearing wetsuit among marine leisure activities. Five types of commercial wet suit materials by brand and four types of commercial wet suit materials with the same quality by thickness were collected. Then, their physical properties, salt water resistance and thermal insulation rate were evaluated and compared. As a result, the most commonly used wetsuit material is 3 to 5 mm thick, and the basic jersey material is bonded on both sides. As a processing for imparting functionality, processing for improving warmth and reducing surface resistance are most frequently used. Consumers often feel uncomfortable when wearing a wetsuit, such as wearing comfort, weight, ease of movement, stretchability, and clothing pressure, which are different from those of casual wear. Also, mechanical strength and warmth were considered to be the most important criteria for selection of wetsuit material for purchase or rental. The mechanical properties of brand A and B were better than those of brand C, D, and E. Resilience and thermal shrinkage were better in brand C, D, and E. On the other hand, there was no significant difference in the physical properties due to the difference in thickness of the material at the same quality. Also, it was found that the thicker the material, the more stable it is in the heat. Brand A and B had superior salt water resistance than brand C, D, and E. In the thermal insulation test, brand A and B showed better insulation characteristics than brand C, D, and E, but the types of bonded fabric and surface finishing of materials were thought to have affected. In comparison of the thickness, the thicker the materials, the better the salt resistance and the thermal insulation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.161-175
• /
• 2016

Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in a changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China the discussion had begun. In Korea where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics had begun around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions emerge nowadays. Korean beauty consists of unplanned Beauty and unplanned planned Beauty. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes the nature as it is and Japan values the artful decorative elements. In modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of unplanned Beauty appears in the various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and simplified silhouette. Also, there are plays on balance and proportion using straight and curves lines and variegated colors and creative printing, intentional asymmetry, and destrution.

• 복식
• /
• 제48권
• /
• pp.5-24
• /
• 1999

The globalization of Korean beauty comes partly from the succession of korean traditional culture and its modernization will be the one of very important issues in 21st century. This paper was done in order to analyze the process of Korean design development in modern Korean fashion in terms of the succession and modernization of Koreantraditional Beauty and based on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean traditional beauty andbased on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean fashion in 21st century. 227 fashion designs which represent typical elements of korean traditional costume were selected from fashion magazines books SFAA collection books and company brochures published from 1986, to 1997. Content analysis was used with 8 variables including 7 design elements(line shape, color, textile, motif, detail, accessories) and year. Results of analysis showed that the process of Korean Design development in modern Korean fashion has in the use of straight lines and simple silhouettes. Diversity could be found in the application of various kinds of outwear items as well as in the variety of materials and details. Symbolic tradtional motifs and accessories were used to enliven the Korean folklore image, These trends became more salient with the turning point of 1993 when a few designers began to participate in Paris Collection. For successful globalization designers should have more active attitudes toward exploiting the essence of Korean beauty and developing them as modern and global styles.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권9_10호
• /
• pp.1476-1484
• /
• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.