• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.58-73
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of men's wear designs unveiled while Hedi Slimane worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. The study will analyze and focusing on the modernistic characteristics in order to discover the postmodernism trends in his works. The results of the research are as follows. First, Hedi Slimane's fashion style can be cited as grunge and punk due to the trend of expressing the subculture of postmodernism. The design features shown in Dior Homme were straight lines, leather, metallic materials and dark colors used to reinterpret a grungy punk style, romantic patterns, glossy materials, elastic leather, and bright colors were the salient features of Yves Saint Laurent. Second, the feature of cultural pluralism of postmodernism appeared as a type ethnic style. He presented this through the Third World images in the Dior Homme but Spanish matador images, Marrakech's images and North African images in the Yves Saint Laurent. Third, he feature of his style is metrosexual feminizing men's fashion and breaking up gender stereotypes. I-type and X-type silhouettes that emphasize the human body and feminine design motifs such as a skirt are dominated in Dior Homme, and he completed the metrosexual style by using materials, colors and patterns such as bright feminine pink, red, laces, fur, floral and leopard prints, as well as flagrantly expressing body contour.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.349-356
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the thermophysiological responses and subjective sensations of clothing materials with different water transfer property investigated in exercising and resting subjects at an ambient temperature of $20^{\circ}C$ and a relative humidity of 40%. Two kinds of clothing ensemble were tested: 100% cotton with highly water-absorbent but slowly dry properties(C) and 100% polyester with quickly water-absorbent and dry properties by four capillary channels(QADP). Seven apparently healthy male participants each undertook two series of experiments comprised 10-min of rest, 20-min of exercise with 70% of $VO_{2max}$ on a treadmill and 20-min of recovery. Mean skin temperature was significantly lower in QADP than in C during exercise and recovery. Clothing microclimate temperature was significantly lower in QADP during exercise and clothing surface temperature was also lower in QADP especially during recovery. Also, clothing surface humidity was significantly higher in QADP after the later half of exercise. The concentration of blood lactic acid tended to decrease to a lower level at recovery 3 minutes when wearing QADP rather than C clothing ensemble. Metabolic energy was marginally significantly less during the second half of exercise in QADP. Body mass loss tended to be greater in C than in QADP. The participants had better scores in thermal sensation, comfortable sensation and wetness in QADP during exercise and recovery. These results show that functional materials with quickly water-absorbent and dry properties can alleviate heat strain and induce more comfortable clothing microclimates and subjective sensations in the exercise-induced hyperthermia.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.105-116
• /
• 2021

Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.2
• /
• pp.262-280
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.25 no.5
• /
• pp.131-148
• /
• 2021

Upcycling is a sustainable way to recycle waste resources and solve the global problem of environmental pollution. Upcycling is now attracting attention as fiberization and the disposal of waste clothing have become a serious issue. However, the customer's willingness to purchase upcycled products should be increased by propagating that the product value of a reborn commodity is of high value; these products are meant for new purposes and prepared with recycled materials. In this study, we created 11 designer items by applying an eco-friendly concept in the design process of upcycled textiles and products. From 2020 to 2021, a PBL(Problem Based Learning) curriculum was taught in design planning classes. The final 11 design items were derived after developing an eco-friendly product design for upcycled textiles. These final items were as follows: 5 fashion bags, 3 dog products, 1 clothing, 1 fashion accessory, and 1 sanitary mask design. In order to develop only one aesthetic design idea for upcycling, we considered the following features: user-centered convenience, functionality, and practicality. Then, tie-dye, drawing, patchwork, and embroidery were used to create innovative design items. The product design of recycled materials is based on high functionality, waterproofing, and the use of organic natural materials. The results of this study indicate that the creative product design of upcycling has contributed to a sustainable and eco-friendly environment. Related research studies must be conducted for innovating the continuous design process of the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.739-748
• /
• 2012

Modern people gratify their self-satisfaction to express their distinctive image and symbolic significance through various and sensible direction. The image that is formed by each factor of coordination and harmony of aesthetic characteristic has emphasized its importance in modern society. And also, the item which is conflated by the wearer's feeling figures the image and it takes a role that lifts the degree of fashion's completion. For the rapid change of fashion trend in modern society, the role of Jewelry has been emphasized. Even though the shape of Jewelry is tiny, but it has risen as one of the fashion items which could be used for various application. Especially, the Brooches are mainly put on her's top where they hold someone's eyes, so it could be regard as Artwork which assists for wearer's distinctive style and lingering impression. Overviews of Researches Trend in Brooch, they have been concerned about Brooch Design, Internal state of the Accessory in clothes and Accessory Design which is expressed in Fashion. But, the study on the relations between Clothes and Brooch is insufficient. So, in this paper, first of all we arrange the terms according to characteristic of Brooch, and then study empirically for the relations between Clothes and Shape of Brooch, Colors of Brooch, Materials of Brooch in Fashion Collection in order to study for the new physical beauty that is expressed by interaction between Clothes and Brooch.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.144-158
• /
• 2017

Fur garment has long been the conventional symbol for luxury, or conspicuous consumption. However, as fashion items began to diversify as part of overall fashion trend, fur items are now more about individual taste and style than just lavishness. Synthetic fur is especially emerging as a new promising fashion material, with a touch almost like natural fur at an affordable price. Along with the emergence of 'Vegan Fashion' trend, synthetic fur is establishing itself as a popular fashion textile. This study is an attempt to investigate subjective evaluation and physical properties of natural and synthetic furs, whose results will further serve as basic data in developing synthetic fur materials. Sensory and emotional evaluations are carried out on natural and artificial furs. For analysis, factors such as weight, thickness, air permeability, gloss and compressibility were surveyed to observe how they influence the physical properties. According to the subjective evaluation, natural and artificial fur samples do not differ in conspicuous ways in appearance. Experiments on physical properties, specifically warm/cool touch experiment, show that natural fur has a slightly higher warm sensation than artificial fur. Luster analysis by using a microscope revealed that there are subtle qualitative differences between natural and artificial fur. During the subjective evaluation, subjects found it hard to state distinct quantitative differences in luster. A survey as a means of assessing qualitative differences in gloss seems to be necessary to complement the evaluation. Results from this study will potentially serve as resources for diversification of fashion product designs using synthetic fur.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.167-180
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.37
• /
• pp.231-252
• /
• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.679-686
• /
• 2006

The purposes of this study are to look into the formative characteristics of the bolero and to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the line and length of the connecting lines of the neck, center front, and hem lines from analyzing the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion. Theoretical examination of the bolero was made philologically with reference books, theses and some articles. And the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion was analyzed with pictures from a fashion magazine "Ceci" and a fashion website 'Interfashion Planning" from Feb. to Aug. of 2005. As a result, the basic lines of the bolero are classified into three different categories according to the connecting lines of the neck, center front line, and hem line. We altered the length of the bolero in three categories with the changes in the waistline-5 cm, 8 cm, and 11 cm. For the visual evaluation, 9 stimuli were placed in mannequins, and were estimated by the experts in the fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the line and length of the bolero, we used 12 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 13 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-Point Likert Type Scale. Data we got from this experiment was analyzed statistically by using the SPSS 12.0 and practiced the Factor Analysis and Correlation Analysis. In the current women's garments, the bolero is a new fashion item which combines with jackets or cardigans. Usually the bolero jacket is made out of a cotton, denim, leather or fur, and the bolero cardigan usually used knitted materials. The design could be very varied depending on the roundness of the center front line, and hem line. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual effects of the Bolero, four factors were identified the whole silhouette, neck line, breasts and shoulders. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image of the Bolero, three factors were identified maturity, tenderness, neatness.