• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2018

As an application and potential of 3D printing (3DP) accelerates in diverse industries, the use of 3DP is also increasing in the textile and fashion industry. Since the fashion trend is rapidly changing and there are high demands of customized products for customer segments, research on manufacturing of 3DP textiles has become more important. 3DP textiles have different physical and chemical properties depending on a various 3D printing technologies or materials. However, it is difficult to fabricate 3DP textiles that meets demand of garment such as flexibility, wearability, tensile strength and abrasion resistance so that 3DP in fashion industry relatively has a narrow range of applications compared to other industries. The aim of this paper is to provide a trend of research about manufacturing 3DP textiles by analyzing previous studies according to textile's properties. This paper classifies the five types of 3DP textiles and analyses systematically. First, 3DP textiles blended with existing textiles. Second, 3DP textiles utilizing the structural design of existing textiles. Third, 3DP textiles designed with continuous units. Fourth, 3DP textiles utilizing material properties. Fifth, 3DP textiles based on smart materials. Based on this analysis, future research of manufacturing 3DP textiles needs are identified and discussed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.134-147
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze fashion brands' contents and characteristics of the participation platform of users, to assess the types and strategies of mass customization(MC). Most fashion brands sell one professional content: Shoes brands were the most common, followed by bags, unisex wear, and menswear. In consumer's design selection elements, changes in color and materials were the most common. For the personalization service elements, monogram service was the most common. The results of MC types analysis were as follows, Customized Standardization was the most common, followed by Tailored Customization, Pure Customization, and Segmented Standardization. For the types according to changes in products and expression methods, Cosmetic was the most common. And the classification according to modulation, Modularizers were the most common. For Creativity, brands in the making stage were the most common. For Flexibility, although brands different methods, high flexibility by modularizing design elements of products and accomplishing various design through participation. The Ease of use for various expression was generally high, parallel to Flexibility. For Durability, because consumers could receive end products only when they participated in the assembly stage in the on-line purchase, their continuous participation was not possible, so they participated only once. The typical types and strategy of MC were analyzed. The Customized Standardization type was the most common in shoes, bag, and womenswear brands. It was the Cosmetic type which could change colors and materials, the Modularizers, and had high Flexibility and Ease of use and low Durability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.23-38
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.103-120
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• 1999

The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.12-26
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• 2012

Fashion industry characteristically goes through many steps to manufacture and to retail apparel products. Complex inter-industry channels with many intermediaries in fashion industry provoked many problems regarding recognizing customer's need, delivering time, flexibility, and inventory control. Therefore, the purposes of this study were to investigate the differences between apparel manufacturing and distribution process in SCM success factors and performances, and to investigate how SCM success factors affect on performances. Questionnaire was developed and distributed to apparel industry. The returned 116 questionnaires were analyzed by Cronbach's alpha for internal validity, factor analysis, t-test, and regression analysis with SPSS14.0. The results of this study were as follows: There was significant difference of SCM success factors between apparel manufacturing and distribution regarding process standardization and integration. There were significant differences of SCM performances such as reaction for customer, flexible management, cost minimization, and maximized asset utilization which distribution was higher than apparel manufacturing process. In apparel manufacturing, SC strategic relation, and integrative management influenced upon reaction for customer of SCM performances. SC integrative management influenced upon cost minimization. SC integrative management influenced upon maximized asset utilization. In distribution, SC strategic relation, and activated support for SCM influenced upon reaction for customer of SCM performances. SCM specialization, credible relationship among supply chains, activated support for SCM, and SC integrative management influenced upon cost minimization. SCM specialization, credible relationship among supply chains, and SC integrative management influenced upon maximized asset utilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.134-146
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• 2006

Modern society is a multi-cultural consumer society, and there are multiple trends to cater to the tastes of diverse consumers with different sociocultural background. To grasp fashion trends in fast-changing society, how consumer life is changing and what sort of trend is prevailing should be understood above all. A major fashion trend keeps on changing in every season, and that is an extensive and compound measure of what affects the lives and values of cultural receivers who take the lead in it. The purpose of this study was to delve into what sorts of trends were presented in the 21st century's different cultures, how those cultures were reflected in fashion trends, and how design elements predicted by fashion trends could serve as the sources of design that could create a new fashion. The findings of the study were as follows: First of all, the theories of popular culture and trends were reviewed to describe how general receivers found meaning and delight in the products of cultural industry in their own way and how the products were converted into diverse cultural media. Secondly, consumer styles were discussed by classifying consumers into six groups, twixter, duppie, Ubi-Nomad, NONOS, LOHAS and chav, who were generated by changing cultural codes. Thirdly, sociocultural trends and consumer changes brought a lot of diverse changes to fashion trends. The visual materials about the 2005 S/S, F/W Collection were examined to track how changing trends affected fashion style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.57-67
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• 2014

This study aims to provide visual data from analysis of the Depaysement approaches with new viewpoints to inspire and develop new fashion window design ideas. The literature and existing researches related to Depaysement were analyzed for theoretical review, and Depaysement expression approaches were identified by expression characteristics. Theme concepts using traditional Korean images, which could be applied to fashion window displays in Korea, were established, and K(Korean)-fashion design was created to develop fashion window display design. Then, the Depaysement fashion window display was executed using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. The results of this study are summarized below. 'Change of forms and materials' could visualize the factors inducing curiosity, which can directly stimulate the consumption sentiment lying latent in the mind of observers by assigning new values to fashion goods displayed inside windows. Unconscious experience and remarkable stories, which are not possible to encounter in an everyday setting, can be visualized through the window display in 'heterogeneous combination of objects.' 'The location change of an object' could express the refreshing and shocking scene to give weird anxiety and mental contradiction to observers by fashion window display, which could break fixed idea of human beings. 'The change of object awareness' could express contradiction and denial, which could liberate the unconsciousness lying latent inside observers through fashion window display. 'Change of spatial awareness' could create the design which maximized the fashion images of goods displayed by helping the observers to change the space of their unconsciousness selectively at their will through the fashion window display with hidden, strange, ambiguous and variable image like a riddle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.34-49
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• 2018

Sustainability in fashion pertains to all stages within the product lifecycle, starting with the procurement of raw materials and ending with the disposal of the product. To clarify, the Lifecycle Management (LCM) views the Triple Bottom Line (TBL) from the perspective of a product's lifecycle. Sustainable products are identified based on their lifecycle, causing public attention to turn towards Product Lifecycle Management (PLM). As of now, PLM is largely known to have a strong impact on New Product Development (NPD). As such, the objective of this research is to study how PLM-based sustainable NPD models, when applied to the fashion industry, can produce a wide understanding of sustainable fashion products from a variety of angles. In order to achieve the research objective, this study did a selective case study on 20 sustainable fashion brands; conducted 1:1 in-depth interviews with 24 fashion experts, including both sustainable and non-sustainable experts; and took part in participant observation of 5 sustainable fashion brands. The results of the study indicate that there are specific conditions that must be met at each stage of production for the development of sustainable products by fashion brands. However, due to the lack of technological skills and the dearth of sustainability experts within the organization, management, monitoring and systematic collection of data is not properly implemented - leading to problems with the quantification of crucial data. This study aims to further forward the debate regarding the development of sustainable fashion products and its future implications.