• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.35-49
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• 1999

The North Pacific Arctic region has common factors such as climatic characteristics and similarity of animals inhabiting the region. But also there exists geographical barriers that separates the tribes, different languages between the tribes. Although there are such differences, the clothing and ornaments of the region have relatively similar design and style. And above all possess the ‘spirit’. The tribes find the motives of such ‘spirit’ in human, animal, and soul\`s adaptability to change and in grafting such changes of forms into clothing. Especially as means of pleasing the animal that they vitally rely on, the tribes made the clothing as beautiful as the nature itself and they tried to connect the humans and animals universally through such clothing that have social, artistic, and enchantic conditions. The supply of raw materials of animals has elevated the creativeness one step up and the precise knowledge about fur show their superior techniques in making fur clothing. The use of gutskin has is an excellent example of such knowledge, which is very unique of the region. The gutskin has moderate plasticity and thus can be cut into all sorts of pattern. It harmonizes the functionality and practicality. The worldwide fashion trend is dominated by Western style, but the clothing of this region is still keeping its distinctive folk identity. At the start of the research, Kayak and itelmen tribes of Asia, the tribes of Amur river and Aleut and Tlingit tribes of North America seems to be geographically too far from each other and therefore searching theoretical background for common cultural origins seems to be immoderate. But lighting the fact that geographical adjacency that can be perceived through costume cultural history, is the most important factor that gives mutual influences to costume culture between the neighboring tribes, cultural relative similarity of the costume is influenced by geographical location rather than physical distance between the tribes. Also humans\` adaptability to their environment is seriously contaminated with man-made products. This study on North Pacific Arctic region is telling us many things about our past, present and future.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.179-191
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• 2003

The study is to suggest easier making method of skirts and slacks as to compare production process between manufacturers and references of clothing construct in universities. Skirts and slacks have simple production process and they are basic subjects in clothing construct class. But most references have just contents which are to make basic styles of skirts and slacks made basic materials. Continuous development of new material and variety of style request more efficient and easer making method in the reference of clothing construct. So the making methods of references and manufacturers are compared and analyzed in this study In references, there are many hand work and sub-work because they are for a person who make own clothes. In contrast, manufacturers have to product many variety clothes of good quality for many people and think the production cost of clothes. They use more simple and efficient method that include their know-how to meet changing fashion situation. In making methods of skirts and slacks, differences between references and manufacturer are in sewing of waist band and zippers and location of interlining. Manufacturers use variedly sewing method of waist band according to material and their experience. Especially handling for wrong side inseam of waist band is distinct between references and manufacturers. References have basic and detail work and manufacturers know processing order having even grade work to keep continuous production. The making method of clothes have to change and improve according to the situation. The more useful making method get to include their merits and references need to add more practical method and knowledge.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• Composites Research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.9-20
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• 2000

Free vibration characteristics of a cantilevered laminated composite beam with multiple non-propagating transverse open cracks are investigated. In the present analysis a special ply-angle distribution referred to as asymmetric stiffness configuration inducing the elastic coupling between chord-wise bending and extension is considered. The multiple open cracks are modelled as equivalent rotational springs whose spring constants are calculated based on the fracture mechanics of composite material structures. Governing equations of a composite beam with open cracks are derived via Hamilton's Principle and Timoshenko beam theory encompassing transverse shear and rotary inertia effect is adopted. The effects of various parameters such as the ply angle, fiber volume fraction, crack numbers, crack positions and crack depthes on the free vibration characteristics of the beam with multiple cracks are highlighted. The numerical results show that the existence of the multiple cracks in an anisotropic composite beam affects the free vibration characteristics in a more complex fashion compared with the beam with a single crack.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.75-81
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• 2008

This paper dealt with the synthesis and characterization of the polymeric product by the reaction of the water-soluble poly(vinyl alcohol)[PVA] nonwoven fabrics and the phosphoryl chloride ($POCl_3$), which has been applied to prepare water-proofing materials or intermediates for increasing water-proofing or fire-proofing ability of commercially available water-soluble PVA support layer. $POCl_3$ was reacted with PVA nonwoven fabrics under non-aqueous condition, and their reactivity, and chemical structure were checked and discussed. PVA was reacted with $POCl_3$ under the reaction condition of 1:1, or 1:2 mole ratios at 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$, and the reaction products were further hydrolyzed. The structure of the resulting products from water soluble PVA nonwoven fabrics reacted with $POCl_3$ were identified by FT-IR or X-ray fluorescence spectrophotometer, and they indicated the PVA polymer chains to have phosphorous and chlorine moieties.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.226-236
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• 2010

UV irradiated acrylic pressure sensitive adhesives(PSAs) are prepared to be used for thermal pad in plasma display panel(PDP). The effect of the chemical structure of side-chain in comonomer and of crosslinking agent on wet-out property of acrylic PSAs in wide temperature range were investigated. The correlationship between viscoelastic behavior and adhesion properties, such as tack and peel strength, was also studied. The experimental results supported that wet-out and adhesion properties of acrylic PSAs were enhanced inversely proportional to side-chain length of comonomer in wide temperature range. The peel energy clearly increased in acrylic PSAs prepared by using di(ethylene glycol) dimethylacrylate (DEGDMA) for crosslinking agent. The results might be due to the difference in the glass transition temperature and viscoelastic behavior of acrylic PSAs.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.5 s.90
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• pp.80-87
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• 2006

A new fastness formula based on the CIEDE2000 color-difference formula was developed by B. Rigg and his coworkers. It is much simpler to calculate the staining fastness grade than the ISO 105-A04 fastness formula based on the CIELAB color-difference formula. Sample pair sets, which cover a wide color space range were accumulated from the NCS(Natural Color System) color book. for those sample pair sets, a visual measurement experiment and an instrumental measurement experiment of fastness grade were carried out. Each performance of the ISO 105-A43 fastness formula and newly developed fastness formula was compared through degree of agreement for visual measurement results. The newly developed fastness formula indicated improved performance for measuring fastness grade as it was confirmed that the performance of the current ISO fastness formula ISO 105-A04 for assessing staining, was inadequate for measuring fastness grade. Then the fastness formulae were examined more closely according to the particular color spaces and the correlation of hue, lightness and chroma for measuring staining fastness grade was also considered to recommend more improved fastness formula. By modifying the weighting functions of CIEDE2000, which is a basis of new fastness formula developed by B. Rigg, a modified fastness formula is proposed in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1596-1610
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• 2010

This study investigates the studies of development of apparel basic pattern published in domestic journals and the trends in related studies. It also provides basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December 31, 2009 and retrieved by a keyword related to the design of basic apparel patterns. The data was classified by the journals, the year of publication, research themes, research subjects, and research methods. They were analyzed to find out the overall distribution status and characteristics by time. The number of theses for the analysis was 73 published in 11 Journals total. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 7 Chronicles of 5 years in each term since the first thesis was published in 1968, it was found that more active research had been done as time went by. The theme of the theses in most cases was the composition of western apparel. As for items, most cases were on the study of bodice torso basic patterns. Since the period of 5-6 Chronicles, studies in the pattern of underwear, jacket, shirts blouse have gradually increased and the development of patterns using elastic materials are increasing as well. Women were dominant in the studies as subjects and so were young people of both sexes. Unlike the studies in earlier times that focused on the average figure, studies on developing patterns for various figure types have been made since the 5-6 Chronicles. However, there were limited studies on the figures of infants, male youth, seniors, and obese males. As for the research methods, there were common processes for validity testing of patterns through the measurement of the human figure, survey of customers and companies, designing pilot patterns, and wearing trials. The studies showed characteristic the differences in research methods according to the period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.138-152
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• 2010

This study investigates the actual hospital-clothes consumption experience of consumers according to gender and age. An all age survey was conducted among male and female ex-patients in Korea nationally. From data collected during April and May 2009, a total of 513 responses were analyzed using descriptive statistics, chi-square analysis, two-way ANOVA, and MANOVA using SPSS 10.1.4. The results are as follows. The hospitalization ratio was higher in the male group than in the female group and increased with age. Many hospitalizations were taken to the department of orthopedics, internal treatment, obstetrics and gynecology, and surgery. The satisfaction with patient gowns was low regarding size, fabric touch, color and pattern, Psychological comfort, and holistic satisfaction, Specifically, the stiffness of the fabric, cheerless colors, and the limited number of sizes were the main complaints; size dissatisfaction was expressed strongly by females. About 35% of respondents showed a positive attitude to wear premium patient gowns. Various medical supplies were used and different items were utilized according to gender and age of patients. Uncomfortableness of medical supplies were highly related to laundry and fabric touch.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.15 no.5 s.58
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• pp.95-103
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• 2006

Ron Arad, the master of contemporary design in the U.K., is one of representative leaders of this age who has left distinguished achievements in the history of contemporary design through innovative design. Analyzing and understanding the Deconstructive design concept and the deconstructive characteristics of interior space of Ron Arad will contribute to finding directions for today's design and laying the ground for explaining the development pattern of design in the 21st century. After analyzing the deconstructive characteristics of each selected space, One Off and Ron Arad Associates have shown a deconstructive design trend of a creative formula by using methods that shed conventional processes and material while a space composition and form of new concept was attempted in the resting space of the New Tel Aviv Opera House, offering not only the establishment of a new circulation system, but also diverse experiences of space to visitors. Likewise, a temporal experience and communication between the user and the space was attempted in Belgo Noord and Belgo Central by partially applying a narrative space composition that sheds existing design concepts. At the Millennium House, they have produced an interior space for future house developed by breaking off from existing typical design development work and material through computer operation, and made various forms of space and atmosphere possible by attempting variable elements and the use of ultramodern material. Y's fashion shop has granted variability to the form and volume of space according to time by presenting display elements that have shed existing form and function. Hotel Puerta America as well, with a curved structure that has broken off with existing forms and maximized space variability through structures that have utilized ultramodern materials and instruments. Through this study, it has been verified that Ron Arad has been unraveling connections between interior space and its user, its requirements, and the original unique principles of space by applying deconstructive design concepts, and that through the mediation of these spaces, he is attempting indirect communication with the user. Eventually, he is taking part in the harmony and development of all elements of space connected with human beings by applying deconstructive design concepts.