• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.8
• /
• pp.55-66
• /
• 2014

Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.357-362
• /
• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.288-295
• /
• 1999

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties in tencel fabrics by repeated washing & shear and tensile deformation. The obtained results are as follows. After performing repeated shear tensile deformation, RT of tencel showed higher increase rate than that of cotton and rayon, whereas its WT and EM was a smaller decrease rate than that of them. This means that tencel's resistance to tensile deformation was the greatest. In the repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, tencel's 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5 showed a remarkable increase rate. In terms of deformation frequency, the greatest change rate appeared at the time of 1000 cycles of repeated shear tensile deformation and 15 times of repeated washing. In the hand value and THV, KOSHI showed a higher increase rate for tencel than for cotton and rayon in both repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, and NUMERI showed a higher increase rate. In the THV the change rate of rayon and cotton could be rarely seen but for tencel, it decreased. tencel's change rate of thermal insulation value by materials was 1.08%, and it increased as the washing frequency increased, compared to the grey fabrics, whereas the change rates of cotton and rayon were 0.74% and 0.22%, respectively. The qmax decreased in the order of cotton>tencel>rayon as the washing frequency increased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.258-268
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider incense culture found in costume and life in forms of carrying and decoration. Here, incense for carrying and decoration is classified into two cases, using it as a costume accessory and life space. Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul, Hyangdae and Hyangseonchu were costume accessories. Hyangjumony was not only used for the royal palanguin, but also for bedroom. When Poetic Literature, and other ancient publications were reviewed in regard to incense for carrying and decoration, it was estimated that incense began to be carried for the first time before the late period of Shilla(9C). In addition, it was found that incense was not just a personal taste, but one of important gifts exchanged between states, envoys of different nations and between sovereign and subject and that incense was a necessary costume accessory for men. Types of incense for carrying and decoration used in this nation are classified into Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul and Hyangseonchu. Hyangjumony is a fabric pouch that contains incense. Hyangnorigae is Norigae whose main material is incense. Hyangjul is a string to which incense is hanged. Hyangseonchu is Seonchu whose main material is incense. Incense for carrying and decoration was based on five colors that symbolize cosmic order and harmony, of which red and purple were mostly used. Red strongly suggests expelling Yin with Yang, or exorcism. The color gives a strong impression, so it was often used to make a carried incense more decorating. Main materials of incense for carrying and decoration were gold, silver, precious stone and horsehair. They are different in characteristics, but were used appropriately for incense fragrance and decoration. Patterns mainly used for the incense had shapes of animal, plant, sipjangsaeng and letter. These were all auspicious patterns that symbolize human wishes and desires, especially individual and family happiness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.329-334
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this research is to develop the design, pattern and size system of brief as a measurement garment in order to obtain more precise silhouettes and sizes of the body in 3D measurements. The results of this research are as follows: First, nylon/lycra materials which elasticity is equivalent to 18%(wale) and 27%(course), were selected as a material for briefs to minimize possible error in measurement and deformation of body shape caused by looseness or tightness in its measured parts. And T-back style design was selected, of which briefs neither deform human body nor cause overlapping or excessive tightness when was put on the measurement garment over it. Second, different darts for men and women were adopted into the pattern in consideration for the shape of hip. Third, the waist band of briefs was located between the waistline and abdominal girth line so that it didn't interfere with measurement, and using a wide band of 40mm minimized the tightness of the human body. In addition, the stitch lines and sewing procedure were simplified to minimize the deformation of body shape resulting from inseams and stitch lines. Finally, for the size of briefs, 6 cm intervals were set on the basis of the waist girth and 8 kinds for men and 6 kinds for women were selected in descending order of appearance rate by the interval sections. English T meaning T-back design and numbers representing the waist girth were marked in parallel for the name of size.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.461-466
• /
• 2013

Synthetic fiber materials were developed due the desire of consumers for high-quality, high-performance and comfort. A high functionality of synthetic fiber can be obtained through surface treatment that can improve hydrophilic properties, color depth after dyeing and adhesion properties. These advantages create added-value. Hydrophobic properties are an important feature to create added-value (such as hydrophilic properties). One side processing is a method of imparting to contrary function on the front and rear side. In this study, fluorine-coated Nylon/PU blended fabric was treated on only one side with a low-temperature plasma treatment; subsequently, the contact angles decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. The contact angle of the untreated surface and the treated surface was different. It a showed a difference in the properties of both surfaces. Tensile strength and stiffness decreased by increasing the time and intensity of the plasma treatment. However, plasma treatment did not significantly change the tensile strength and stiffness on both surfaces of the fabric. SEM photographs showed the surface of fluorine-coated fabric and the etching surface by using plasma treatment on the fabric. Plasma treatment was confirmed not to affect the physical properties of the fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.88-107
• /
• 2012

Hybrid implies that elements in more than two are combined, and is what is merged and used complexly the technologies and materials in several fields according to the development in scientific technology and the progress in technology. In the formative and artistic aspect, the hybrid can be said to be phenomenon that two of mutually different genres are combined. The function and form in each genre, which were combined at this time, are remained wholly or partially, thereby revealing as well without hiding a fact of having been combined. In the digital communication era, the same time level was integrated into one culture, with destroying the temporal·spatial boundary. As for the objectives of this study, first, the aim is to suggest a model for researching into make-up by grasping the developmental process and the characteristics of hybrid art through considering an art theory of hybrid, which was shown in make-up. Second, the aim is to design make-up by analyzing trend by make-up style after applying the genre deconstruction in hybrid. The modern make-up design through genre-deconstruction characteristics beyond diverse plurality and genre could be known to be highlighted as aesthetic characteristic by a slight attempt as communication of open space, which connects culture and genre, which had failed to be recognized and was neglected. Through the results of this study, it could be known that there is infinite possibility in developing make-up design in line with modern sensation through aesthetic element and symbolic significance through genre deconstruction. Based on these findings, its significance can be said to be in substantially contributing to offering new sight to the design & formative characteristic and the expression mode in future make-up, to providing basic data, and to strengthening competitive edge of culture and art.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.79-86
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to understand the dyeing properties and color analysis of fabrics knitted with ramie, cotton, wool and acrylic by using scoria and to analyze whether the knitted fabrics can be used for industrialization by measuring color fastness after and before sliver-nano process. The following is the conclusions. Firstly, when ramie fabric regarding cotton, wool and acrylic was dyed at the temperature of $50^{\circ}C$ for fifteen minutes by using 10, 25, 50, 100g/ $\ell$ of scoria, dyeing absorption gradually increased up to 50g/ $\ell$, and over the point of 50g/ $\ell$ it showed slow increase. Secondly, regarding saturation, among ramie fabric, wool, cotton and acrylic, wool appears as the lowest brightness. Therefore, it can be dyed with bright color and the highest value. In terms of the value of chromaticity, wool also emerges as the lowest brightness. On the contrary, acrylic showed the lightest red as it had the value of the smallest b. Cotton takes the lightest yellow as the b value of the cotton showed the smallest. Thus, scoria dyestuff is a material that showed strong red and yellow on knitted fabric mixed with wool that is the biggest a. b value. Thirdly, in terms of dyeing fastness, sunlight fastness did not show noticeable differences before and after silver-nano processes, but in terms of washing and friction fastness, the material processed by silver-nano indicated that all knitted fabrics are over 4-5 point. which means silver-nano process can be effective for the industrial applications. As mentioned above, as a result of dyeing knitted fabrics with scoria, this study found a possibility of dyeing in the fabric materials, and if there is deeper dyeing experiments, fastness experiments and speculations, it might be possible to be a big issue just like loess and charcoal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.2 no.3 s.3
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to find out the operant factors, or types of skin care, and, more importantly, to propose the intervention for more effective skin care and marketing strategies in this business. That is the main reason that the study employes Q methodology which measures human subjectivity objectively and scientifically. This study finally revealed three distinctive factors : Type I, The Passive Follower, Type II, The Active Needs, and Type III, The Independent Judgment. The first type includes people who show passive recognition. They want to be put in charge of experts in the skin care center and to buy cosmetics recommended by experts, and are deep interest in the reaction of other people. The second type contains people who desire things actively. To live delightfully and fashionably, they think of the necessity of skin and body care as an important thing, and feel that it is necessary to take care of the skin beauty actively and regularly for the aging resistance. The third type includes people who judge independently. In general, they recognize and desire the necessity of the skin care, but they think of the skin care as a part of the health care more widely rather than a special thing. These three types are not fixed, but continuously changed in the accordance with the condition and interaction with the circumstance, the results will be utilized as basic materials for the skin and health care through the application according to the characteristic of each type they belong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.130-138
• /
• 2007

The aim of this study was to assess the cosmeceutical activies of four kinds of Korea herb medicine extracts using in cosmetics and related industries. The cosmeceutical activities of extracts were investigated by tyrosinase inhibition, astringent, anti-bacterial and MTT assay for cell viability. In the whitening effect, PA that the highest tyrosinase inhibition activity showed 56% at 10 ppm in ethanol extract. Also water and ethanol extract of RE showed 54%, 68% at 1,000 ppm, respectively, but LE and CA showed lower effect. Astringent effect of water and ethanol extract of PA appeared over 60% at 1,000ppm concentration but other extracts showed no astringent effect. In the anti-bacterial test, water and ethanol extract of PA showed no anti-bacterial effect against all microorganisms. But water and ethanol extract of RE showed anti-bacterial effect on Staphylococcus aureus, ethanol extract of showed on Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, ethanol extract of CA showed on Candida albicans. The resUlt of stability test showed that the emulsion of containing PA were very stable at various temperature and sun-light test. Viscosity and pH of emulsion did not change. From the results of human patch test to assess the safety of cosmetics containing PA there was no negative reaction on skin was found.