• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.17-26
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• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.27-43
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• 2015

Festival costume shown in festival parades targeting historical events or figures helps to understand the theme of festival and grants visual effects and at the same time, is an important factor to identify then-cultural environment. Accordingly, this study aims to make a periodic review of traditional costumes used in parades for Hanseong Baekje Cultural Festival and Yeongam Wangin Cultural Festival which are both the festivals that backgrounded Baekje period, make a comparative analysis of the archetypes of reproduction costume vs Baekje costume, understand the problems of festival costume, and seek developmental directions. After making a comparative analysis of reproduction costume shown in festival parades, it was found that king costume, queen costume, governmental official costume, and humble class costume were all different from Baekje costume in terms of configuration, materials, color, shape, and creating method of costumes, and problems were drawn. When it comes to costume items, Pasul and Danryungpoh that didn't belong to Baekje period were worn. The problems in color research can be identified in governmental official costume. The problems in type of costume are shown in the length of po worn outside, margin of width, and degree of restoring accessories. Therefore, it seems to be necessary to convey and identify costume creating method by festival parade-related persons.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 2015

This study analyzed features in contemporary men's collection to provide data for characteristics of kitsch in men's collection. The research method was to see background of the concept of kitsch through the domestic and international publications, the Internet, paper. Five designers' collections that have characteristics of kitsch were selected. The range of collection is from the 2000 S/S to 2011 F/W in Men's collection. The results are as follows: kitsch characteristics could be classified by amusements, inappropriateness, satire. First, exaggerative amusements in men's collection appeared exaggerated form, large size, which is ridiculous at the same time. Infantile amusements represents the image of a pure concentric matching accessories such as toys to the children express. sensual amusements reveals the sexual instincts and desires and people can feel satisfaction through sensual amusements. Second, inappropriateness is characteristic of kitsch to escape from normal life. Clothing does not fit the body and destroyed the design or design of this feature appears. It looks clumsy and strange. Inappropriateness characteristic in men's collection can be divided into inadequate performance and sexual inappropriateness. Third, satire can be divided into resistant satire, imitative satire, and popular satire. Resistance satire with anti-social tendencies through their clothing is achieved by expressing their needs. It was affected by sub-culture like Hippie or Punk. Imitative satire is to imitate other culture, customs and race. It is to resolve complaints through the consumption of things in disparities of wealth and materialism in the society. Popular satire is to express emotions that are free using materials that can recycling like can, bottle or paper.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.121-128
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• 2003

A new textile material, poly(trimethylene terephthalate) polymer, has been introduced to the textile industry. The structure of PTT is similar to the PET, while the tensile deformation and subsequent recovery property is better than that of PET. In this study, the physical and mechanical properties of textile woven fabrics made of PTT, PET, and nylon 6 yarns as the filling yarn were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES), including tensile, bending, shearing, compression, and surface related parameters. On top of these measurements, the subjective ratings by evaluators were performed on the fabric samples. From the examination of the stress-strain behavior of the yarn specimens focused on the recovery mode, it was evident that the PTT specimen developed lower stress at 3% elongation. The subsequent recovery curve showed that the PTT has less stress-decay rate than the other specimens, implying that the recovery behavior of the PTT is recommendable for the end-uses including stretchable textile materials, sports wears, etc. The KES bending rigidity(B) value of the PTT sample fabric was lower than that of the PET sample fabric. Subjective evaluation of the fabric samples by the evaluators on the descriptive word pair "soft - not soft" showed similar tendency with the KES B determination of the fabric samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.145-159
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• 2011

The study aimed to analyze the status quo of manufacturing work environment and the work clothes' clothing comfort and wearer mobility of welding and grinding work processes in the machine and shipbuilding industries in South Korea. A questionnaire survey was conducted for the study, which consisted of questions about work clothes' clothing comfort and wearer mobility according to body parts. The findings derived from the research were: the high impact levels of work environment factors on welding and grinding work processes were noise, metal fragment, superheat, toxic gas, UV ray factors. Subject workers' assessment of work clothes' clothing pressures were in the levels between 3 (i.e. moderate) and 4 (i.e. comfortable) in a range of 5-point scale. The impact levels of wearer mobility factor were high on the work processes of welding and grinding in machine and grinding in shipbuilding. While welding process in shipbuilding showed a 'moderate' wearer mobility level and this was because its work postures were uncomfortable yet the rate of the motion change was low. The consideration to develop the work clothes specialized for certain work processes should include the materials' protecting performance from the hazardous work environment factors; and work clothes' designs that provides workers with maximized clothing comfort and wearer mobility for bending or tilting postures of upper, lower and lateral body parts defined in the study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.107-123
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze the brassiere patterns sold in Shanghai and Korea and to present basic materials needed in developing the brassiere patterns in Chinese adult women market. The study subject which is to find the difference in brassiere patterns of Korea and China has been selected of 3 Korean brands and 4 Chinese brands. 1. For the brassiere patterns sold in Korea, it were using the same size for the width of Hook&Eye, space between the shoulder lace on the back, slope of wing and the location of the Keeper was similar. 2. For the cup supporting base, Chinese brassiere covers the lower part of the breast and as it is not comfortable and has a phenomenon of loosening up, there were severe puckering. For issues in the wearing experiment, amendments in patterns with the cup part was required. 3. Chinese brassieres were big differences in wing angles and for Aimer, it had the steepest trend in wings and thus the wings headed down and for Gujin, as the angle of the wing was smaller than $90^{\circ}$, it was heading upward. 4. Upon comparing the patterns of the Korean and Chinese brassiere, although most of the sizes excluding the wing angle had similar sizes, there was big differences in the wing angle. The reason why the brassiere patterns sold in China had bigger wing angle was due to the fact that more Chinese women had sway back body type than the Korean women and should reflect such difference in body size into making the brassiere patterns for each women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.11-22
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material to use effectively heat permanent wave in beauty industry as well as their customer's satisfaction. It carried out an experiment with damaged hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphological characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. After spreading 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g, and 4g of water on damaged hair respectively, heat permanent wave was treated and the change of hair was observed. The change of physical characteristic was compared through permanent wave form of hair, tensile strength and elongation. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscope(TEM). The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that permanent wave form was the most ideal when the water content was 2g, also 3g. Though the materials with much moisture content formed the results were not satisfied. The material with 0g of water content didn't make the wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, tensile strength was generally reduced as per the damaged degree of hair. On the contrary, elongation was increased. It observed the changes of morphological characteristic that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen, as its moisture content was decreased, and cuticle's surface was worn away. The observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope also certainly showed the result that damaged hair having experience with chemical treatment had got much damaged to hair cuticle as well as hair cortex. Generally chemical treatment makes hair damaged. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. According to the result of experiment, the damaged hair whose moisture content was 3g showed the best permanent wave form.