• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.498-508
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop an aesthetic and functional bicycle wear for new senior women in their 50s and 60s. Based on the results of the survey, we developed bicycle wear that is friendly to bicycling posture and reflects the preference of new senior women. The results are as followed: First, emphasis is placed on the simple and functional design of the experimental wear consisting of jacket and pants. Jacket is different from the color scheme with the armhole princess line in order for the waistline to look slim. Pants are designed to hold the leg muscles tightly in order to help reduce the muscle fatigue on the bicycle ride. Second, cutting lines and coloring materials are used for the wearer to look slim and the safety of the wearer is planned to secure by inserting the reflective material along the cutting lines on the bicycle ride. Third, the pattern of the experimental wear is designed in consideration of the riding motion of the bicycle. Jacket is designed to have back length longer than front length as compared to the bicycle wears available on the market. Sewing lines in the armpit are designed to be eliminated in order to move the arms smoothly on the ride. Pants are designed to minimize the seam line in consideration of the movement of muscles and ligaments and the experimental wear is produced by combining the material with the functions of cool comfort and stretch.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1004-1012
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the loess dyeability of soybean fabric using loess as colorants. Recent days, various textile products such as inner wears, sheets and interior goods are manufactured using materials dyed with loess emphasizing its improved metabolism, anti-bacterial, deodorizing properties, and far infrared ray emissions. Soybean fabric was dyed with loess solution according to concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and dyeing time. To improve washing fastness, soybean fabric and dyed soybean fabric with loess were mordanted by mordanting agents such as sodium chloride(NaCl), Acetic acid(CH₃COOH) and Aluminium Potassium Sulfate(AlK(SO₄)₂·12H₂O). Dyeability and color characteristics of dyed soybean fabric were obtained by CCM observation. Particle size distribution of loess, the dyeability(K/S) of soybean fabric, morphology and washing durability of loess dyed soybean fabric were investigated. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of loess was 1.08µm. The main components of loess used in this study were silicon dioxide(SiO₂), aluminium oxide(Al₂O₃), and iron oxide(Fe₂O₃). The content of these three component was above 75 weight %. The dyeability of soybean fabric was increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 90℃ and 60minutes expectively. The fastness to washing according to concentration of loess and mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 4 degree in all conditions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.605-618
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.196-202
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• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.672-678
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• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.479-485
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• 2017

This study provides basic indices for the development of a pet dog's dummy. Surveys were conducted with 71 owners of small dogs weighing under 10kg as preliminary research for information on pet dogs, uses and complaints about their clothes and demographic information to investigate wearing conditions. We collected pictures of 30 products sold in 12 brands at home and abroad to analyze size, materials, and patterns and investigate the actual production conditions. The survey results on wearing conditions indicated that 'Maltese' was the breed most often raised in households. Dogs weighing 'between 3kg and 4kg' were most common. Dogs under five years of age took up 53.5%. Most of the clothes were 'S' size, followed by 'M' and 'L' Most responded, 'The overall size does not fit' as an inconvenience when worn for long. Second, most brands developed products in three sizes. The displayed details included neck and chest circumference, back length and dummy height. Cotton and artificial leather were used most often for the outer fabric, cotton for the internal filling along with wire and aluminum for some products to maintain shape and motions. Most dummies consisted of back+outer leg, belly, inner leg and sole. Sometimes, a composition line was added by the chest shape, and an incision was placed between the body and leg for breeds with thick legs. Most patterns had a composition line in the leg connected from the belly.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.28-45
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• 2005

La $d{\acute{e}}marche$ et l'objet de cette recherche sont d'analyser, psychiquement, biologiquement, les marques de $l'intersexualit{\acute{e}}$ $pr{\acute{e}}sentent$ en Occident et les elements intersexuels, binaires dans le $v{\hat{e}}tement$, et ${\acute{e}}galement$ de comprendre $l'ambigu{\ddot{i}}t{\acute{e}}$ ou encore la fusion des $identit{\acute{e}}s$ $sexu{\acute{e}}es$. qui $pr{\acute{e}}sente$ symboliquement ${\grave{a}}$ travers le $v{\hat{e}}tement$, dans la $soci{\acute{e}}t{\acute{e}}$ moderne. $Malgr{\acute{e}}$ tous les points communs et $diff{\acute{e}}rents$, la base fondamentale dans les $th{\acute{e}}ories$ de I'Occident est que tout individu est psychiquement, biologiquement en quelque sorte un intersexuel qui s'ignore, avec des variations selon l'individu. En $d{\acute{e}}finitive$, les compositions doubles des ${\acute{e}}l{\acute{e}}ments$ dans le $v{\hat{e}}tement$ occidental montraient $embl{\acute{e}}matiquement$ nos $qualit{\acute{e}}s$ doubles, masculins et $f{\acute{e}}minins$, et les trois ${\acute{e}}l{\acute{e}}ments$ semblent primordiaux pour $l'{\acute{e}}lucidation$ de la $pr{\acute{e}}disposition$ du porteur : la couleur du tissu, sa texture et la forme du $v{\hat{e}}tement$. La mode d'aujourd'hui bascule entre masculin et $f{\acute{e}}minin$. Cette fusion de la mode semble le reflet d'une tendance intersexuelle et d'une fusion du genre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.