• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.128-141
• /
• 2006

The purposes of this study are to consider characteristics of 'movement expression' that are not discovered in preceeding design studies in order to suggest 'movement expression' as a design formative principal and to make clothes which follows this idea. For the method of this study I used various literature about 'movement expression' as theoretical background and analyzed modern clothing in which 'movement expression' is expressed by collecting magazines including foreign collections from 1989 to 2004 and searching the internet. The results obtained from this study is as follows. First, clothing in which 'movement expression' is expressed removes monotony and tedium of clothing design, provides visual interest and satisfaction for clothing, and delivers designers' concept effectively by attracting a gaze quickly. And It is suggested a new division of 'movement expression' through analysis of the 'movement expression' expressed in clothing. It included the intentional movement by wearers, which is the 'movement expression' of broader meaning such as changes of form or position by a certain operation and changes of existence or function. This movement is not fixed and repeated but changes continuously. As a result of including the design expressing the intentional movement by wearers, one's own personality can be expressed more effectively. It is presented a design which has changeable movement expression continuously.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제26권6호
• /
• pp.852-871
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to suggest a direction for the development of unlined underwear design. A style for unlined underwear can take strong points and compensate for weak points by using the characteristics of wire brassieres and bralettes. As a method for research, we based our study on literature and data such as previous studies, professional books, internet articles, and fashion magazines. As a result of analyzing the brassiere's status in lines like 'FOREVER 21' and 'VICTORIA'S SECRET', we determined that 'FOREVER 21' reflects the trend of unlined style underwear, and 'VICTORIA'S SECRET' has both unlined and wire brassieres to make breast correction. In the case of unlined style brassieres, a wire is put in order to gather the chest for compromising comfort and correction. In order to express the possibility of expressing various feelings even in unlined style, Design 1 lets everyone know that unlined underwear can be very comfortable as a daily, not used only occasionally for events. Design 2 demonstrates that besides the artificial feeling of using the strap for a special day or event, it can be expressed naturally by using the lace as it is. Design 3 expresses the luxurious and sexy, rather than the low-grade decadent sexy, by using the feeling of the single layer lace and the pearl decoration for wedding and honeymoon.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제30권5호
• /
• pp.631-655
• /
• 2022

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권8호
• /
• pp.1309-1321
• /
• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제8권6호
• /
• pp.853-863
• /
• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.207-220
• /
• 2011

친환경 감성단어를 '환경/자연, 소재/섬유, 인간, 형용사/기타' 등의 4가지 영역으로 분류하고 각 단어에 대하여 그 출현시점, 빈도를 1999~2010년 상반기 간의 인터넷 섬유패션 신문 및 잡지를 중심으로 조사한 결과, 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 가장 빈번히 출현한 단어는 '자연, 환경, 면, 천연섬유, 건강, 신선한, 맑은, 보존, 하모니, 옥수수섬유, 로하스' 등이었다. '친환경' 관련 감성단어의 출현시점을 살펴보면, 2000년도 이전부터 '에코, 형상기억소재, 오가닉, 스파' 등이 사용되어왔으며, 2000-1년도에 '자연환경, 친환경, 스트레치소재, 웰빙의, 대체가능한, 재생가능한' 등이 등장하였다. 2002-3년도에 '스마트소재, 친환경소재, 그린' 등이 사용되기 시작하였고, 2004-5년도에 '쿨비즈, 로하스, 자연염색' 등이 처음으로 사용되었다 2006-7년도에 '한방, 지속가능한, 웜비즈' 등이 사용되었고, 2008-9년도에 '그린슈머, 그린라이프, 태양에너지, 삼림욕' 등이 섬유패션 분야에서 처음 사용되었다. 친환경 감성단어의 출현 양상을 살펴보면, 친환경 감성단어의 출현은 과거 어느 때보다 2008-09년도에 가장 많이 등장하고 있었는데 2000년도 초반에는 비교적 많이 등장하였으나 이후 다소 주춤하였고 이는 근래에 들어 다시 출현빈도가 높아졌다. 영역별로 살펴보면 '환경/자연' 관련 친환경 감성 단어가 과거보다 최근에 두드러지게 빈번히 사용되고 있으며, 이에 비해 '인간' 관련 단어는 주춤하여 약간 감소세이거나 동일한 빈도를 나타내고 있다. 또 '형용사/기타' 관련 단어는 약간 증가세이거나 과거와 동일한 빈도를 나타내고 있었다. '소재/섬유' 관련 단어는 패션잡지에서는 최근에 그 빈도가 줄어드는 경향을 보이는 반면 인터넷 신문에서는 약간 증가하는 추세를 보였다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제3권3호
• /
• pp.27-37
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제4권2호
• /
• pp.113-124
• /
• 1996

This research was designed to find out what is a distictive feature of the design elements of Korean women's costume and its influence by analizing the trend of Korean women's constume during the period of 1890 and 1995. The research was analized by a total of 854 random samples of clothing styles collected from materials in the museums and from articles of three leading newspapers and one of the best women's magazines in Korea. The changing trend of Korean women's costume was found out to be as follows: 1. In around 1910s, the trend of Korean women's costume has been changed into two-tier structure of both Korean and Western styles, and the typical and traditional Korean women's street wears such as 'Chang-ot' and 'Tsdechima' have been gradually diminished. 2. From 1920s, length of the Korean skirt, which was unnecessarily long and inconvenient, has been getting shorter for the convenience of walking. In addition, Korean women's underwear has become simplified, and sports wear could be seen for the first time in Korea. 3. During 1960s, the Western clothing styles have been increased rather than Korean styles as the street wear of the Korean women. 4. In 1970s, blue jeans, mini-skirts and casual wears have become a trend or fashion for women in Korea. 5. In 1980s, a fashion of unisex mode has arrived in this country, and from the year of 1987, wearing of panties among the Korean women has been increased rather than skirts wearing for the street wear. 6. During 1990s, various forma of complex styles came into being in such styles as so-called 'orange class style,' 'protruding navel T-shirts' and 'runner wear speedy.' From mid-1990s, Korean women have turned out to prefer the cute and light costumes by placing emphasis on the image of intellectual, professional and functional wears. The changing special feature of the Korean women's clothing designs could be distinctively observed during 1960s as the modernization policies in Korea have been processed during the period. The clothing trend before 1960 was to change and to solve problems of inconvenient and impractical wears, but the trend after 1960 was seen as a change to confirm a trend of the world fashion. From mid-1990s, however, preference of Korean women's self-conceited conception socially and an unquestionable changing pattern of Korean women's life.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
• /
• 통권34호
• /
• pp.197-217
• /
• 2014

20세기 20~30년대는 중국만화가 제일 번영된 때이고 중국 만화의 "황금시기"이다. 중국의 근대만화는 외세에 의하여 정서불안과 전쟁 등으로 풍자만화가 유행하였고 그중 많은 인기작품들 중에서 영화와 드라마로 제작된 20년대의 <왕 선생>과 30년대의 <삼모 유랑기>를 선택하여 분석하였다. II장에서 20~30년대 중국 민국시기 영화, 소설, 잡지, 패션 등의 소비문화가 확대되었지만 그 중, 통속성과 대중성으로 인기를 끌었던 만화잡지의 역사, 30년대 만화 간행물 등의 만화 "황금시기"에 대하여 역사적인 고찰을 하였다. III장에서는 5.4운동이후 사회 풍자유머만화가 유행하였고 20년대 반제반봉건주의의 내용에서 현실생활화 되었고 사회의 부정적인 면을 묘사한 작품들이 유행하였다. 그 중 작가 엽천여는 <왕 선생>을 통하여 소시민의 일상생활, 관료의 부패, 노동인민에 대한 동정 등의 상해에 대하여 묘사하였고 장락평의 <삼모 유랑기>는 힘없고 불쌍한 고아를 통하여 상해의 부르주아와 프롤레타리아의 불공평한 사회제도, 빈부격차에 대하여 묘사하였다. <왕 선생>은 도덕적인 면에서 <삼모 유랑기>는 경제적인 면에서 현실에 대하여 객관적이면서 익살스럽고 우스꽝스럽게 반영하였다는 것을 알 수 있다. 연구자가 <왕 선생>과 <삼모 유랑기>를 선택하게 된 이유는 하나의 좋은 만화, 좋은 애니메이션 심지어 좋은 영화는 우리 주변에 대한 느낌에서 오는 감정을 자극하기 때문에 친근감을 느끼게 하며 익숙한 내용을 다룬 두 작품을 선택하게 되었다.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.1-6
• /
• 2004

본 연구는 동서양 문물 이미지 사진에 대한 여대생의 선호도와 패션잡지에서 의류광고 사진에 등장한 모델의 동서양 국적에 따른 소비자의 긍정적/부정적 인식 정도의 영향을 조사하고자 하였다. 100명의 여학생이 설문에 응답해 주었으며 20개 사진이 자극물로 제시되었다. 자극물은 주택, 실내, 식품, 미인도, 음료수로 하고, 패션 광고사진으로는 남성복 정장, 여성복 정장, 여성복캐주얼, 여성복 속옷, 여성손목시계 등으로 하여 동서양 모델 사진을 각 1점씩 선택하였다. 여대생들은 간식과 미인도에서는 서양이미지보다 동양이미지를 선호하였으나, 패션잡지의 의류광고 사진의 광고에는 모든 경우에서 서양모델이 사용된 경우에 긍정적인 인식정도를 나타냈다. 이러한 사실로서 여대생의 서양이미지에 대한 인식은 긍정적이며 이것은 의류제품 브랜드의 소비자 선호도에 영향을 미칠 것을 추측할 수 있었다.