• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.83-91
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide some useful references to the educational field in terms of providing on analysis of job characteristics of fashion designers working in the women's wear industries. The data were collected from 102 fashion designers working in women's wear industries through the questionnaire and were analyzed by SPSS packages of frequencies and percentiles for comparative study, and the results are as follows: 1. The demographic characteristics of the fashion designers are; unmarried (80.4%), working less than 2 years (20.2%), completion of junior college(68.6%), majority ages between 20-24 yrs(43.1%). An average length of working in one company war less than 6 months. 2. The ratio computer usage of the design room was approx. 52.0% especially in the management of sales (52.9%) and the ratio in fashion design was approx. 17.6% in merchandising planning. 3. 76.4% of respondents was working 10 hours a day, and 50% of them was dissatisfied on the job caused by excessive working hour (31.4%) and job over load (35.3%). In the developing fashion design with the relation of actual job, insufficient knowledges of the concerned technical and production fields (68.6%) were indicated as the most difficult area. In addition, fashion magazines were considered as the most helpful resource(94.1%). 4. It was noted that the target age groups for the brand were clearly divided into two groups, notably the early and middle of twenties and the early and middle forties. Among the produced items, formal wears were accounted for 52.9%. 5. As far as the contents of job are concerned, the fashion designers are mostly engaged in purchasing textile, collecting informations of fashion, quality control, whereas their actual job is apparel design. 6. The training that the fashion designer received beside formal education includes attendance of private institutes(62.7%), OJT(7.8%), seminars(4.9%). Regarding formal education, the respond indicated that they had least opportunity to received computer training. 7. The necessary subjects in the schools for the fashion designers in relation to the current job were fashion information, merchandising planning, pattern making, cutting, fashion marketing, knowledges of clothing material in sequence. Subjects which are necessary for the further development include pattern making(21.6%), fashion marketing(14.7%), and designing with computer(7.8%).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.165-179
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• 2002

This paper begins with the thesis that the so-called 'Be Slow' Movement has not only affected the contemporary life style but also the current fashion trend in the West as well as in Korea. The influence of the 'Be Slow' Movement on the everyday life of Western and Korean society can be documented by recent books, news reports, and many articles from various kinds of mass media and fashion magazines since the year 2000. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First. the 'Be Slow' Movement is a new cultural phenomenon and very different from that of the past century. It has emerged very recently and it could affect the life style o( its followers for a long period of time. Second, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on everyday life can be witnessed in many behavioral choices. such as the preference of organic food and natural cooking for food and the preference of rural life and a green patch of land for housing. Some aspects of the way of rearing the children and long-term planning of one's life are also under the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement. In a way. the life style Proposed by the 'Be Slow' Movement is somewhat similar to that of 'Bobos'. Third, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on the current fashion trend can be observed in the appreciation of time-consuming labour and increased usage of D.I.Y. clothing. The higher value of fashion goods with handcrafted part or scarce luxury item are good examples of the influence by the 'Be Slow' Movement. One can say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is not retrogression, but a re-creation of time and space to be grateful for one's life. Thus, it is not anti-technology but a commercialism with technology in order to enhance the quality of life and to place people in the center of production and consumption. Consequently, one may say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is a appropriate and affluent way of living.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.23-34
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to spread the public recognition for the style of Islamic dress has been ignorantly left and provide this as the basic data for Islamic fashion design. This treatise restricts the Islamic scope into the southeast Asia and confuted the study referring to Islam related books, treatise, domestic and foreign fashion magazines as well as newspaper articles, Internet and screen materials. The study results are as follows: Commonly Islam as a term of religious scope means complex cultural body based on Islam. 1. The Islamic social and cultural images were categorized as (1) conservative and sexual (2) simple, static, decorative and rhythmical (3) dark, violent, bright and amusing image. 2. Islamic nations' style of dress was characterized (1) surface decorative dress (2) practical outer garment (3) trousers style. 3. Both men and women basically put on trousers in children's stories and animations. In case of women, they wear skirts and according a social standing, tunic and caftan style jackets. As for men and women, Dey both wear turbans or chadors but in particular, wealthy classes put on a distinguishable turbans and chadors with splendid accessories. 4. The characteristics of Islamic fashion are lace decoration around a sleeve and the waist or blouse and harem pants with a elastic cord. In addition, they are splendid necklace and ring earings looking old, accessories with big pendants and dragging belts. These examples are shown in collections and streets.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.45-59
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to identify fashion trend in the late 1990's by using content analysis of the design elements of wedding dresses in wedding magazine photographs. The data were selected among the wedding dress photographs in 1997 issues of two wedding's magazines, 'My wedding'and 'She's Bride'. The identified 455 photographs were classified into 15 major-categories of silhouettes, necklines, sleeves, materials, and trimmings, etc. 15 major-categories were consisted of 232 sub-categories. In the late 1990's, fashion trends of wedding dresses have mixed mainly dome silhouettes(56.0%), bell silhouettes, and tubular silhouettes. One-piece forms(90.8%) were familar more than two-piece forms. Necklines were used mainly such as square neckline(14.0%), high necklines(13.0) blended with other off-shoulder necklines, heart-shape necklines, and sweet-heart necklines, etc. Also camisole and strapless were added in neckline. Long-tight sleeves dominated at the late 1990's because that were used most (21.1%) among 22 sleeves sub-categories. And short sleeve, ruffled below-elbow length sleeves, and french sleeves were also used with the other sleeves. Long length in skirts(98.4%) were common but mini length were used rarely. Satin, lace, and solid cloth were the main materials in wedding dresses, however, spandex and velvet were also used. Various trimmings such as flowers(corsages), ribbons blended with embroidery, small flowers, buttons, frills, strings, and fur trimming are used. Especially, flowers used most(11.8%) among 61 trimmings sub-categories. But simplicity was shown in trimmings because there were dresses not having any decorations(14.3%). The wedding dress of the late 1990's has become more varied in design due to the reflection of changes in society and fashion of everyday garments while the traditional design of the wedding dress has been preserved.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.663-675
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• 2004

The plastic arts is used when designers draw inspirations to create fashion design. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10-year period(1991-2000). The collections of data were analyzed as following: ◇ Fashion Designing Idea 1. Matching Idea The art is reproduced in the design as how it is with no transformation. First, the painting＇s complete figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. Second, the painting＇s partial figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. 2. Contrasting Ideas The composition elements in Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting, for example, structures of shapes, vertical and horizontal lines and different colors are applied in the design. First, one particular shape in painting is transformed into different shape of square, circle or triangle and reproduced in designing. Second, one particular shape in painting is disassembled and then reshaped into different form in reproduction. Third, additional lines are put in to create different look from the original painting. Forth, existing lines are extended over the boundary to create different look from the original painting. Fifth, achromatic colors: black and white, and three basic colors: red, blue and yellow in the original painting are modified into different shades or color scheme is increased in broad range.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.65-78
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• 2003

This research is to provide practical help in learning hair and makeup illustration skills by presenting techniques for hair and makeup drawing; to serve efficient illustration education; and to enhance the status of beauty and contribute to artistic development. Hair style and makeup techniques include graphical one, pattern-centered one, one using pattern paper, simplifying one and mood one expressing image. Of them, this research made the illustrations to use cosmetics, color pencils and pastel based on the graphical technique. for each design of the illustrations, ethnic, sexy, natural, romantic and gorgeous images, which were considered to be appropriate to the graphical technique, were chosen by the researcher out of hair and makeup styles that appeared in the fashion magazines including Vogue, Gap, Mode et Mode from 2000 through 2001. In particular, they were chosen with focusing on basic styles. The summaries below were found with the experience of making illustrations. Various techniques and skills are required to express the ideas of hair and makeup styles. Of them, the graphical technique is very useful as the primary step to learn various techniques and improve drawing skills. First, the graphical technique may enable not only expressing what is desired to draw as is, but also accurately representing hair and makeup designs so as to convey objective expression. In this regard, it is a proper way to achieve its inherent purpose as conveyance of messages. Second, more accurate styling of hair and makeup is available through graphical expression, which helps understand related practical techniques. In addition, makeup illustration, which is expressed through direct makeup products and instruments, may serve skill improvement since such direct use provides the feeling of real makeup. Third, the graphical technique as a basic drawing skill may unrestrictedly show the artist's expression ability. Fourth, although artistic merits implying individuality and creativity should be shared through illustrations that express the artist's ideas or emotions, the graphical technique is the easiest method to beginners who just started learning of illustration, in that it enables expression without highly advanced skills.