• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.645-652
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• 2014

This study identifies consumer needs and a pattern sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for raincoats using quick-drying-absorbing polyester. We investigate the consumer's consciousness and raincoat improvements. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed for use in this study. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 152 university students using a 7-point scale of 26 consumer needs and 31 pattern image sensory descriptors. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major results were: There was a need for consumers to improve the front fastener type, cuff fastener, mesh patch position, and raincoat pocket position. The most important parameter to choose raincoat fabric was waterproof and the other parameters were vapor-porous/water repellent, design, color, fashionability, air-permeability and easy-put on/off. The pattern image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by seven factors: gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic, ethnic, feminine, and cool. A higher pattern preference was found in the jacquard fabrics of unique, sporty, natural, luxurious, and trendy images. The pattern preference was predicted at 45.3% with gorgeous, simple, pure, cute, futuristic factors. The correlation coefficient between the pattern image sensibility factor 1 (gorgeous) and pattern preference was 0.674 and with factor 3 (cute) was 0.416, and with factor 6 (cool) was 0.209. The 4 factors (gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic) were selected as a significant pattern image sensibility that influenced preference.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2012

This research investigated the influences of structural characteristics such as fabrics, mechanical properties, and subjective sensory images on the off-line and on-line preferences to women's spring/summer suits fabrics to extract the most effective factor towards preference as well as analyze the preferential off-line and on-line differences to predict the exact texture image on-line. Objective evaluations were done for the measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics using Kawabata's Evaluation System and subjective evaluations were done with 109 female subjects who value the off-line and on-line sensory image of suit fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and regression were used. The results were as follows. The preference scores on-line were generally higher than those off-line. For the structural characteristics of fabrics, differences of thickness were observed according to preference clusters, and the preference increased as thickness was lowered off-line and on-line. For mechanical properties, WC influenced off-line and on-line preferences. Fabrics with low compression energy were preferred; however, the effect of SMD was observed off-line only. In subjective sensory images, the 'smoothness' image influenced off-line and on-line preferences the most. All sensory images influenced the off-line preferences; however, the effects of 'flexibility' and 'weight' were not shown on-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.83-94
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• 2006

In this era of ubiquitous service, a computing device has functions similar with human beings. It influences all major fields of human life, such as clothing, dieting and housing. In order to use the coordination functions of the magic mirror, which might be a basic part of clothing in the era of ubiquitous service, this study concentrates on product information that should be inputted in RFID chip in detail in order to exercise virtual fashion coordination. Information should be inputted in RFID chip to use magic mirror for fashion coordination, a direction for doing this was also suggested. After coding the suggested clothing items, virtual fashion coordination was implemented as a fashion illustration. This study is as following, First, sorts standard code for suitable coordination in 4 images and presented to a proof. Code denoted by 10 characters. Each code literal special quality marks by two characters and divided by season, image, fabric, item, rotor, five items. Item middle of characters of 10 code, when agree on article more than 8, coordination is enabled. Secondely, It is presented by coordination to dressing action picture by suitable coordination classified apart in whole occasions, and coordination method by wearer inclination is remembered wearer's dressing action picture to Magic mirror including layered look. Thirdly, wardrobe of Magic mirror clothes that always buy newly in magic mirror, is washing and clothes that do not take to wardrobe did to be controlled. Fourth, Wealth and schedule is suggested firster than wearer's dressing action.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2008

We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.800-807
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to compare the subjective texture of actual objects and their picture images on the Internet to find out a method to present visual images in order to supply information similar real objects. For this study, seven knit fabrics and four presentation methods of visual images including twice magnifications and two dimensions of 2D and 3D. The results of this study were as follows: There are significant differences among subjective textures evaluated by touching seven fabrics actually and we can verify the effects of fiber contents and loop length of knit on textures. We can find out differences of texture depending on presentation methods. In case of 2D evaluation of knits fabrics, visual images of real size present a little exact information on roughness and heaviness whereas those of twice magnification do roughness, wetness, softness and luster. And 3D images give us more exact information of textures on softness, heaviness and warmness, but rather twice enlarged 3D image can't supply an information of heaviness texture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.