• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.25-43
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• 1994

앙드레 꾸레쥬는 자신의 디자인에 건축적 조형미를 표현한 대표적인 디자이너이다. 그의 디자인들은 라인 뿐 아니라 색채, 소재, 액세서리에 이르기까지 건물을 짓듯이 설계, 구성되어 있다. 최근 복식미의 건축적 조형성이 강조되고 있는 것을 감안할 때, 60년대 이미 선구자적인 역할을 하면서 자신의 건축가적인 기호를 유감없이 발휘해온 꾸레쥬를 연구한다는 것은 21세기를 향한 패션의 발전 측면에서 조금이라도 의미가 있지 않을까 생각한다. 본 연구에서는 앙드레 꾸fp쥬가 가장 활발히 활동했던 1974년에서 1970년까지 그의 디자인들을 집중 연구하였는데, 그의 패션디자인에 건축양식의 특징들이 어떻게 나타났는지에 연구의 초점을 맞추었다. 본 연구의 대상으로 사용된 실제의 옷 샘플들은 뉴욕 메트로폴리탄 예술박물관내의 Costume Institute Storage 에 있는 의복과 액세서리들을 직접, 관찰 , 분석한것이고 그 박의 사진들은 패션과 건축에 관한 서적과 잡지, 박물관내의 Slide Library , 그리고 Costume Institute Library Collection에서 발췌 , 비교 연구한 것이다. 일찍이 엔지니어링과 건축을 공부했던 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 50년대의 패션 디자이너의 거장 발렌시아가 밑에서 10년 넘게 일하다가 독립하였는데 그의 디자인 세계는 줄곧 여성들이 입고 편히 활동 할 수 있는 기능성을 강조하면서 단순하고 편안한 의복 구성에 중점을 두었다. 그리고 그는 이러한 자신의 패션 철학과 의복제작 과정들은 현대건물이 갖는 단순성, 기능성의 특징과 일치한다고 믿었다. A. 라인(Line) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 패션 디자인에서의 비레는 건축에서구조를 쌓아가는 것과 같은 것이라고 생각하고 옷에서의 기본 구성을 기하학적인 라인에 두었다. 그래서 그의 옷들은 A-라인, 사각형, 사다리꼴,,, 등의 분명한 실루엣을 이루고 있는데 이러한 기본라인을 뒷받침이라도 하듯 소매가 아주 짧거나 없는 것이 특징이다. 황금분할이 아닌 1 : 1 구성은 그가 독특하게 사용한 비례방법의 하나인데 그것은 자켓과 스커트의 길이비례, 요크와 몸판간의 면적비례 등에서 잘 나타나고 있다. 그리고 그는 , 의복구성의 비례를 강조하기 위해 사용한 강한 색상의 대비를 현대건물의 인테리어에 빛을 사용하는 것과 같은 이치라고 설명한다. B.색상(Color) 흰색은 그러한 그의 비례강조 의복에 가장 적절한 색으로 사용되었다. 그는 빨강, 오렌지, 녹색, 분홍등 강렬한 원색을 사용하였는데도 불구하고 흰색은 그의 건축양식 발상의 Ideo를 완성시키는 완전한 색이었다. 뜨거운 날씨에 흰색이 가장 기능적인 색인 것처럼 강한 원색 대비를 통해 비례강조를 하면서 동시에 그것을 뒷받침하는 가장 합리적이고 기능적인 색은 흰색이라고 믿었다. C. 소재 (Material) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 건물을 짓듯이 사람위에 옷을 건축한다고 믿었기 때문에 자연히 둔탁하고 딱딱한 소재가 많이 사용되었다. 비닐, 금속류, 시퀸스처럼 광택나고 투명한 재료 선호는 그 당시 현대 건축에서 선풍적으로 많이 사용되었던 유리, 금속류, 크리스탈 등 비치고 광택나는 건축재료와 일맥상통하는 것이다. 그러한 선국적인 내료 사용결과로 보여진 괴상하고 선정적인 그러면서도 아주 단순한 패션은 미래 지향적인 건축양식 구조의 " Simple", "Plain" 느낌과 정확하게 같은 것이다. 이상과 같이 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 옷을 디자인 했다기 보다는 건축했다. 주목할만한 점은 60년대 말 당시 발표되었던 그의 건축 구조적인 디자인의 특징들이 21세기를 앞둔 90년대에 다시 크게 유행하고있다는 점이다. 꾸레쥬 역시, 최근 자신의 디자인을 통해 건축적 조형미와 미래지향적 이미지를 더욱 강조하고 있는 것을 볼 수있다. 단순하면서 우주공간을 선회하는 듯한 입체적인 라인, 흰색을 비롯한 자연에 가까운 색을 중심으로 하되, 밝은 색조의 하이라이트, 플라스틱, 금속류와 같이 딱딱하고 광택나며 비치는 재료 사용,, 등등이 바로 그것이다. 그리고 이러한 그에 미래 지향적이고 조형적인 디자인들은 앞으로 어떻게 더 모험적인 모습으로 선보일지 우리 모두가 주목할만한 일인 것이다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.37-57
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze the body measurements of boys and girls at puberty and to provide the fundamental data for pubescent apparel manufacturers to produce clothing that reflect their physical characteristics. A total of 549 boys and 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured in the capital area from March 4 to April 3, 2004. Data were collected from 35 anthropometric items and 12 photographic items per a person. SPSS Ver. 12 program was used in data analysis including means, standard deviation, t-test and Duncan test. The main results of this study were as follows. They showed the significant difference of their growth in accordance with the increase of their ages. There were also the difference between boys and girls. As for height and length items, boys showed a slow growth at the age of $10{\sim}11\;and\;12{\sim}13$. Those at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed rapid growth. That is, an active growth was followed by a slow growth and that phenomenon repeatedly occurred. On the other hand, girls showed remarkable growth at the age $10{\sim}11$ and the growth rate gradually slowed down afterward. Regarding circumference items, boys at the age of $11{\sim}12\;and\;13{\sim}14$ showed remarkable growth. This results showed that boys at the age of $11{\sim}12$ had vertical growth and horizontal growth at the same time and for those at the age of $13{\sim}14$, growth was more conspicuous in horizontal direction. Meanwhile, for girls, the growth rate was high at the age of $11{\sim}12$, somewhat later than the age of the growth of height and length. As for breadth-related items and depth-related items, for both sexes two items grew steadily throughout the ages, breadth-related items showed a higher growth rate than that of depth-related items. This study analyzed the body measurements of pubescent boys and girls and the results showed that, for boys, an active physical growth took place at the age of 13 according to previous studies, but the findings of this study suggested that the phenomenon now occurred at the age of $11{\sim}12$, which proved that physical growth took place earlier than before. Also, an active growth was followed by a slow growth. Girls at puberty showed remarkable growth of height at the age of $10{\sim}11$ that is consistent with previous studies and then showed horizontal growth at the age of around 12, having a voluminous body shape.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1225-1236
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of aromatherapy, showing how the composition handling of aromatherapy and abdominal massage treatment reaches body ingredient transformation. The subjects for this research were total 18 middle-aged females in Seoul; aroma massage group of 7 females, aroma inhalation and water bathe group of 5 females, abdominal massage group of 6 females by jojoba oil without any medical effect. This clinic trial was held from July 1, 2008 to Aug.14, 2008. I held this clinic trial under the same condition after and before this clinic. A standard tape and OLYMPIA 3.5 of S hospital were used at the body measuring for subjects after and before clinic trials. I got Average and standard deviation by data analysis by SPSS Win. Ver.14.0. I did paired t-test for the comparison of before and after, and repeated measure ANOVA for between two groups or among three groups'. The verification was held Duncan Test. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Body mass quotient (F=2.86, p= .063) and Body region (F=1.34, p= .279) among three groups showed no meaningful difference, but weight meaningful difference and aroma massage group showed the greatest difference of body measure change quantity. 2. In change quantity of abdomen girth, Waist circumference and WHR, abdomen girth (F=4.56, p= .012) and Waist circumference (F=4.37, p= .031) showed a meaningful statistical difference. The result of subsequent inspection showed that there was a meaningful difference among three groups and aroma massage group was best. 3. In Cell quantity, Body region quantity and Muscle volume, Body region quantity (F=2.76, p= .182) and Muscle volume (F=3.12, p= .054) showed no difference, but Cell quantity (F=3.79, p= .040) showed a meaningful difference. In the comparison of three groups there was no difference, but aromatherapy group showed more change quantity than any other group. According to the result of this study, the composition handling of aromatherapy and body massage was effective in the decrease of Abdominal fatness and Waist circumference, Weight and the increase of Cell quantity. so I suggest that woman use this therapy in the program of obesity management for her health improvement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.55-72
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• 1997

우리나라 복식산업의 전문인력 양식은 주로 대학교나 전문학원에서 이루어지고 있으며 수적인면에서는 충분한 인력이 양성되고 있다. 그러나 질적인 면에서 산업체에서 요구되는 역량을 가진 전문인은 부족한 편이다. 이에 따라 산업체의 요구에 부합하는 인력야성을위하여 교육과정의 개선이 절실히 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 실기교육 산학협력 및 산업체 현장실습이 활발히 이루어지고 있는 영국의 복식관련학과에 대하여 조사해 봄으로써 우리 교육의 개선방향을 모색하고자 한다. 영구의 경우 다양한 자격증 및 학위과정이 개설되어있으나 본 연구에서는 우리나라 학사학위에 해당되는 BA 및 Bsc만대상으로 하였으며 설문조사 문헌조사 및 사례연구를 통하여 현황 및 교과과정을 분석하였다 영국의 복식관련학과들은 그 교과과정 및 내용에 따라 크게 6개 전공분야로 분류되었으며 각 하과는 다시 세분화되어 전문성이 있는 교육이 이루어지고 있었다 또한 수업연한 및 과정의 형태에 따라 5개 유형으로 분류되었다, 이유형 중 특히 일년간의 현장실습을 학위과정으로 포함시켜 의무적으로 산업체에 근무하도록 되어있는 Sandwic Mode는 적극적인 산학협력의 한 형태로 매우 효율적으로 평가되는 교육체계이며 여러다른 학문 분야에서도 널리 활용되고 있는 체계이다. 교수진의 경우 전임교원이 수적인 면에서 다소 부족한 것으로 나타났으나 관련 산업체 인사 등을 시간강사로 고용함으로써 이를 보완 할 뿐 아니라 산학연계를 이루고 있었다. 또한 전임교원의 경우 주로 학사 혹은 석사의 학력을 가지고있었다. 그러나 모든 전임교수 뿐 아니라 시간강사의 경우도 산업체 경력을 필수 적으로 가지고있어 고학력위주의 우리나라 실정과는 매우 상이했다. 교과과정에 대한 사례연구에서 직물디자인에 집중된 2개 과의 교과과정을 보았으며 그중 한 개 과는 다시 편물 프린트 및 직물 디자인의 3분야로 세분화되어 심도 있는 교육이 이루어질 수 있는 것을 살펴보았다 또한 다른 3개의 예에서 볼수있듯이 2개 이상의 전공코스를 도입하여 공통과목과 전공 코스 과목을 둠으로써 시설 및 인적 자원의 활용 등 운영상 효율성을 추구함을 알수 있었다 또한 학생들의 경우 전문화된 코스의 선택을 할수 있게 하였다 이런 실례는 전문인력양성이 매우 필요하고 따라서 전공코스제의 도입의 필요성이 대두되고 있는 이시점에서 매우 유용하게 이용될수 있으리라고 생각된다. 영구의 교육이 우리나라 실정에 그대로 적용될 수는 없지만 본 연구 결과를 바탕으로 다음과 같은 시사점을 고려하여 우리교육을 개선해 나갈 수 있으리라고 생각한다. 첫째 교수진 인적 물적상황 및 지역적 상황등을 분석하여 각 대학별로 그 특성에 맞는 세분화되고 심도있는 전공교육과정을 개발 발전시켜 야 할 것이다 둘째 산업체 방문 산업체인사와의 면담 및 특강 등 산학협력을 좀더 적극적으로 모색하여야 할 것이다. 셋째 학생들의 산업체 현장 연수를 실질적으로 도입하여 산업체의 인력요구에 적극적으로 대처 할수 있어야 하겠다.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.10 no.11
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• pp.39-53
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• 2012

Purpose - This study identifies relationships amongst repurchase intentions, brand equity, and preference by applying VMD of fashion retail stores. The results would help coffee shop owners and coffee makers in devising an appropriate strategy for successfully managing coffee shops. Research design, data, methodology - The VMD model of a coffee shop includes harmony, trend, and attractiveness, while brand equity encompasses brand awareness, perceived quality, and brand image. In this study, the VMD factors of coffee shops, brand equity, and brand preference, are shown as independent variables, while repurchase intention is shown as the dependent variable. The study aims to ascertain the extent of the influence configuration factors of a coffee shop have on brand equity, brand preference, and repurchase intention. Regression analysis was used to verify the mediating effects of brand preference on brand equity and repurchase intention. The measurement items were already deemed as reliable and valid in the previous study, but some modifications were made for the purposes of this study. Questionnaires were distributed to 550 consumers on a national scale, and 517 consumers amongst these were finally used as a sample for analysis using the SPSS 17.0 statistical program. Results - First, amongst the VMD configuration factors of a coffee shop, trend, and attractiveness have a positive impact on brand equity (brand awareness, perceived quality, and brand image). Second, brand equity has a positive effect on brand preference. Third, brand preference has a positive effect on repurchase intention. Fourth, brand preference plays the role of a mediator in measuring the impact of brand awareness and brand image on customers' repurchase intentions. Conclusions - The theoretical implications can be summarized as follows. First, this study proposes a theoretical basis that can be adapted to the VMD configuration factors of a coffee shop by identifying the relationship between brand equity and coffee shops. This study applies the VMD factors to the coffee shops and presents a new research model by examining the relationships amongst VMD components of coffee shops: brand equity, brand preference, and repurchase intention. Second, it clearly establishes the relationship between brand equity and brand preference by identifying the mediating effects of brand preference, given that brand equity has a positive impact on repurchase intention. The practical implications are as follows. First, development of brand equity and management can be important components for coffee shops in determining that the VMD configuration factors of coffee shops have an impact on brand equity. Second, amongst the VMD configuration factors, attractiveness and trend have a positive influence on choosing coffee shops, therefore store atmosphere should be attractively designed, while the menu and interiors should complement each other and be reviewed periodically to conform to the latest trend. Third, VMD configuration factors that are confirmed are not easily changed. Fourth, large franchises and foreign companies have strengths in scale, locations, and brand. Fifth, the different ways of campaigning should be compared to those of large franchises and foreign companies in order to increase brand equity using VMD configuration factors.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.187-192
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• 1996

The matrix tablet containing sodium alginate and $CaHPO_4$ can release drugs in a controlled fashion from hydrogel with gelling and swelling due to their interaction as water penetrates the matrices of the tablet. The purpose of this study was to evaluate release characteristics of the matrix tablet varying the amount of sodium alginate, $CaHPO_4$ and other excipients such as chitosan, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and $Eudragit^{\circledR}$ RS100 in the simulated gastric and intestinal fluid. The practically soluble ibuprofen was used as a model drug. The release profiles of matrix tablet in the gastric fluid as a function of sodium alginate/$CaHPO_4$ ratio was not pronounced because of low solubility of drug and stability of alginate matrices. However, release rate of drug from the matrix tablet in the intestinal fluid was largely changed when sodium alginate/$CaHPO_4$ ratio was increased, suggesting that the ratio of sodium alginate/$CaHPO_4$ was an important factor to control the gelling and swelling of the matrix tablet. The incorporation of other excipients into the matrix tablet also influenced the release rate of drug. The chitosan and HPMC decreased the release rate of drug. No release of drug was occurred when $Eudragit^{\circledR}$ RS100 was added into the tablet. The retarded release of matrix tablet when excipients were added resulted from the hindrance of swelling and gelling of the matrix tablet containing sodium alginate and $CaHPO_4$. The hardness and bulk density of the matrix tablet was not correlated with release rate of drug in the study. From these findings, the ratio of sodium alginate and $CaHPO_4$ in the matrix tablet in addition to incorporation of excipients could be very important to control the release rate of drug in dosage form design.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.17-30
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• 2017

Lots of interdisciplinary studies for fusion of high technologes and the other areas of research had been tried in these days. In sports training area, high technologies like a vital sign sensor or an accelerometer were adopted as training tools to improve the performance of the sports players. The purpose of this study is finding the proper locations on the human body for attaching the motion sensors in order to develop a smart sportswear which could be helpful in training players. The rowing was selected as a subject sport as lots of movements of the joint on human body could be seen in rowing motions. The players of rowing could be devided into two weight divisions, the lightweight and the heavyweight. In this study, the change rates of distance between markers on human skin as the players moved were took on the back, the elbow, the hip and the knee area on human body by 3D motion capturing system. The distances between markers and the differences between the lightweight and heavyweight were analyzed. Finally, this study provided the guide lines for designing a motion sensing smart sportswear.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.69-87
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• 2014

This research is to develop ethical clothes consumption education program that adopts PBL which is student centered professor-learning method where the learner actively participates in lessons to recognize problems and solve them. This research also tried to see the changes in the students' ethical clothes consumption awareness and problem solving skills and self-directed learning ability after applying this program to lessons. With total of four study topic, seven ethical clothes consumption education programs were developed, and the actual lesson was conducted in controlled group and experiment group. Summary of this research is as followed: First, ethical clothes consumption education program was developed using PBL. Second, teenagers' ethical clothes consumption awareness increased much more than before the course. As both the control group and the experiment group were proven to have high ethical clothes consumption involvement and awareness, it was possible to confirm there is a need for systematic and continuous consumption education at school. Third, when a post test on changes in problem solving ability and self-directed learning ability after applying PBL based ethical clothes consumption education program was conducted, students' problem solving ability was enhanced and both factors, the awareness and behavior of self-directed learning, showed significant difference.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.399-409
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the random selection among female undergraduate students in Daegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that measured by 5 scale method. And then they were classified into two groups which were interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Frequency, percentage and mean were analyzed, for difference of groups t-test was analyzed. The results were as fellows; 1. For the degree of interest for Korean traditional patterns, it was showed that 53.8% of total respondents took interest and about 40.4% of them had preference for traditional patterns. the correlation coefficient of the degree of interest and preference was 0.782(p<0.01) and showed that the positive correlation was high. 2. Among 20 kinds of Korean traditional patterns, the degree of preference for the patterns of plants and nature was quite high whereas that for the patterns of geometrical things was low relatively. 3. It was evaluated that pattern of nature was fresh, refined and womanly image generally. It was evaluated that pattern of plants was womanly, fresh, weak, light and soft image and that of animals was heavy, splendid, high-class, manly, strong and positive image. It was evaluated that pattern of geometrical things was the most refined image and high-class, rigid and strong. 4. The statistical significance of mean between interest/non-interest group was showed statistically in the patterns of clouds, mountains, lotus, apricot, orchid, dragon, phoenix and bogey. In case of pattern of orchids, the degree of preference was most different between interest/non-interest group. 5. The pattern of plants showed the most different evaluation for images between interest/non-interest group. For refined/old-fashioned polar adjective images, the interest group evaluated the pattern of plants more refined. 6. For pattern of orchids, the difference of degree of preference between preference/non-preference group was most remarkable in Korean traditional patterns. 7. The pattern of geometrical things showed the most different evaluation for images between preference/non-preference group. For warm/cool polar adjective images, the preference group evaluated the pattern of geometrical things cooler.