• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.137-144
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• 2006

Though old generation criticizes on costume play that it is accepted by young generation without any criticism, it is gaining popularity and is settled with unique Korean characteristics. The study is to understand the characteristics of costume play and investigate on the attitude of costume players enjoying it. For this study, a survey was conducted on costume players who order tailor-made costumes or rent them by using references, existing papers and internet sites. The results are as follows. 1.37% of costume players live in Seoul and Gyeonggi area, 37% in Gyeongsang-do and Busan with 21% in other areas. Two areas shows higher rate than any other regions, as Seoul Comic and Busan Comic are held regularly and there are faster exchange with Japanese culture in these areas with enough money 2. Among costume players, female accounts for 73.7% with 26.3% male. It shows that female likes costume play more than male. It is because woman responds actively to what she likes than man does. The number of male is steadily increasing. By age, high school student is 40%, middle school student is 36%, older than 20 is 16% with 3% of elementary school student. 3.61% of them like the reproduction of character costumes, 14.7% like Pancos and another 14.7% likethe reproduction of character costumes and creation. 69.5% participates in costume play both in groups and individuals, 26.3% in groups and 4.2% in individuals. 45.3% participates in comic more than 8 times in a yew, 43.2%, 1-2 times and 11.6%, 3-4 times. Mostly they want $50,000{\sim}80,000$ won costume. 4. on the criticism of old generation that costume play is nothing but the imitation of Japanese culture, 87.4% of the respondents answered 'absolutely not' They think costume play is one of their favorite cultures. 5. on the parents response to costumeplay, 87% of the respondents answered 'Ethey understand', 13% said 'they cannot understand and dissent'. The respondents said costume play didn't affect their school records with 25% respondents who said they got better grades.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2000

Jacques Derrida took off the self-contradiction of structuralism and built up a theory so called "Deconstruct". By issuing a series of papers which strongly criticized the existing western philosophy, he drew into 'strangers' alienated and deconstructed the methodology of structuralism by getting out of the antagonistic thought attaching great importance to Logos. Discomposition is realized by exposing the ex-structural elements existed inside of structuralism, and is an open philosophy recognizing the dignity and freedom of an individual than the general structure in the methodology of structuralism. Discomposition is a theory for criticizing the conservative thought frame traditional western philosophy, and deconstruct as a method of criticism persists a new epistemology by questioning to all texts including a text of tradition and deconstructing these texts. The contemporary fashion in 1990's shows the discompositive appearances with the different form. textile print and color. By the analysis according to the deconstruct process, the characters of discompositive fashion are undecidability decentring, disorder, and dislocation. Many designers like Martin Margiella, Alexander Mcqueen, and Ann Demeulemeester express these characters on their fashion. The result of this process, the characters of discompositive design can be classified matamorphosis, harmony of the disharmony and coexistence of the ambivalence.bivalence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.115-132
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• 2017

This study recognizes the importance of the social network platform as a new fashion media, and analyzes the significance of various digital fashion images, based on the 'Aura' theory of Walter Benjamin. The concept of "Disappearance of Artistic Aura" can be summarized into three discussions: 1) the change in the way of artistic perception, which is changes in value from worship to exhibition. 2) the change in the way of artistic acceptance, from personal to mass. 3) the emergence of new artistic concepts such as camera and film. By reviewing characteristics of the $21^{st}$ digital replication era, the study tried to discover and evaluate the expanded significance of the 'Aura' represented on digital fashion images, which are infinitely generated, modified, reproduced, transmitted, and shared in social network environments. The 'Burberry Instagram' was chosen as the subject of the study. The study reviewed around 2,500 images, which were uploaded from February 2011 to July 2016, and selected 200 images deemed the most representative of Burberry, and categorized and analyzed by the extended concept of 'Aura'. The study results as follows: First, the 'Aura' in digital fashion image appearing on social network platforms signifies the expansion of product value in fashion, and it also represents inherited traditions and modernization of images. Second, it also signifies the democratization and globalization of fashion through the open replication and sharing as well as the interaction of criticism and acceptance. Third, it signifies the personalized taste and fashion as everyday lifestyle, through personalized services, securing playful space, and real-time updates.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.379-390
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• 2005

Every Society has it's own ideology and lifestyle and these form its unique aesthetic experience or values. In the paper observing recent, especially in 1980s and 1990s. Korean street fashion that is one way of expressing their values and lifestyle, the aesthetic values related to the morality have been studied. Through the studies using the cafes of Korean street fashion style we can understand the change of morality and fashion style according to the change of socio-cultural environments more deeply. For study methods documentary study and case study were executed. Morality related clothing were defined in detail through documentary studies and for analysis of street fashion from 1980s and 1990s the cases from 'Mut' and 'Ceci' magazines as well as the articles from Chosunilbo, Dongailbo and Maeilkyungje were looked over one by one. By understanding the intrinsic meanings and formal features of resent Korean street fashion, the direction for future fashion designing could be guided, which could satisfy consumers' needs in the rapidly changing world situation. Followings are the results of the study. First, morality of clothing could be defined in detail regarding modesty and extravagance. Modesty could be directly related to exposure of body and norms for appearances and extravagance to fashion oriented, luxury goods or brand name oriented and spending. Second, the exposing body has been accepted and permitted by public even with criticism more easily but they were less generous to values about norms regarding clothing. Third, the change of morality related to modest has happened earlier than the change of morality related to extravagance, which has begun very recently in 2000s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.362-372
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• 2008

The remarkable tendency shown in recent fashion can be the customer's passiveness, not only their feeling desire for product but also needs for product seem to be made by mass media. So this condition can be thought as the currency of energy for being subjected. The public of fashion eagerly want the fashion style to be suggested for following it. The late Freudian, Erich Fromm said that the reason why individuals demand themselves to follow the masses' move could be explained as the hope against the fear of feeling not being from staying isolated and having no direction. Escaping from this fear, individuals ought to believe the necessity of participation in public. The fashion is willing to be defined as the united condition by individuals in the hope being consolidate in masses against being solitude. Nowadays, people can share many informations with internet, the fastest medium, which makes the individuals impatient not to be isolate, thinking other people must contact the information and should feel pressure of taking part in the currency. Even though the style is considered to be awkward for following it, it's frequent exposure on mass media by celebrities wearing the style could soon make a fashion. This is able to show that many customers should incline to consider less about their style or taste, whereas lean to pursue after masses' authority. Recent consumers have propensity to avoid feeling concern about others' criticism, on the other side, they try to chase of the fashion as masses' choice for feeling peaceful. The reason why people recognize not to have clothing to wear in spite of a large wardrobe, it must reflect their needs promoted from outside influence of introducing for new styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.99-123
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in ppular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method fo fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Korean popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as ; 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic, A and Foucault. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthroppological approach method about C. Geertz'culture. This si to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions (historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental (cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be mad up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic ; how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition which is concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.327-338
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• 2002

The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.17-32
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• 2008

This study focuses on the analysis of Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective which has established a theoretical basis on research of the critical reviews' salon exhibitions as written by Baudelaire. Charles Pierre Baudelaire(1821-1867) having lived during the latter part of Neo-classicism and the era of Romanticism and Impressionism, Baudelaire displayed opposition to customary realities such as social ideology or religious authority that suppressed human nature. Also he pioneered a new genre known as art criticism and wrote much that provided important insights on the essential elements of artistic work, modernity and trend, as well as art definition and art categories. The aesthetic perspective and creative spirit were formed by Baudelaire, during his age were also reconfirmed in the successive ages of modernism and postmodernism. As such, this study sheds light on how Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective was not only temporarily assertion but it is consistently applied to modern art and fashion area. What is more important that, Baudelaire admired new artificial beauty that is created by the human soul liberated from natural instincts or desires. Especially, informed by strangeness and distinctiveness, Baudelaire's view of fashion ran along the same vein as his view of art, and these views form the basis of that creative spirit which situated western fashion on a center of the world. In conclusion, the research on Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective will reaffirm a firm awareness of the creative spirit essential to globally-oriented creative artists and designers who work within the circumstance of the 21st century, a time when the paving of new aesthetic paths is necessary. The research also offers a clear understanding of the aesthetic values demanded by this age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.151-164
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• 2005

In the modern popular culture, a significant code is not the truth itself but the seeming truth. To fulfill this function, it is a mythology that has a transcendental power to eliminate any doubt and mystery. That is to say, cultural uniqueness is understood as an identical thing through mass communication, and people perceive it as a similar cultural community. In this process, mythology form and accumulate the matrix of mythological meaning by eliminating the difference between the reality and the illusion. Such a matrix forces a meaningless and unconditional truth and practice without any criticism and reconsideration. This paper tries to extract art and cultural characteristics of mythological image through examining the relationship among mythological image, history, and ideology. For this aim, we make use of Roland Barthes' signs and Daniel Boorstin's image as a basic analytical tool. After that we examine the characteristics of mythological image appeared in modern cultural discourses and the relationship between mythological image and modern popular culture. Furthermore, we consider the mythological image expressed in modern fashion, which has the nature of commodity aesthetics.