• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.73-85
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• 2009

This study aims to analysis the costume colors and images of wicked women in fairy tale. For the most costume applied to the relationship between color kind, brightness, and saturation. so, this study investigated the costume colors put on by wicked women in fairy tales and analysed and interpreted them by inputting data. First, mostly the costume colors applied to transfer the image of wicked women were dark blue, red, violet, bluish green, green, and purple. Second, the colors feeling cool and cold such as dark blue, bluish green, green, and blue were applied more frequently than the colors feeling warm and mild. Third, the deep and dark color tones with low brightness and low saturation affected by the mixture ratio of black were applied frequently for the use of wicked woman colors. Fourth, the colors mentioned above have the meaning of men, powerful, authority, cruel, angry, brutal, mysterious, and evil, that have the property of attacking and strong wicked women. They were expressed by the costume put on by wicked women.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.49-57
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• 2006

Turmeric is aromatic, perennial herb, up to 1m high and distributed in East Asia. Parts used of it Rhizomes and is known to be used a medicinal stuff yellow dye stuff from past to nowadays in the Oriental region. The objectives of this study were to investigate and to compare to the dyeability of Turmeric according to pH, temperature, mordants, and the antimicrobial properties of wool dyed with turmeric. The results of this study are as follows: The wavelengths of the strongest absorption of Turmeric extract were 420 nm respectively. The extracted dye from Turmeric has affinity to wool. The dyeing rates are decreased according to diluting times and the dyeing rates are increased according to high temperature. The color of pH 3-7 is yellow green, over pH 9 is turned to orange yellow. The color of the non-mordant sample is yellow but it changed to bright yellow by Al, to orange yellow by Cu mordant, and to brown yellow by Fe mordant. The launder fastness and is not good, 2-4 grade and the light fastness is bad, 2-3 grade, but the dry-cleaning fastness is generally good, 4-5 grade. The fabrics dyed with Turmeric extract showed high antibacterial property on Staphylococcus aureus.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.102-111
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• 2010

The pegging board planning for jacquard weaves was carried out to express a big enough design in 60 inch width. 20 Kinds of fabrics were fabricated by a jacquard loom with a warp density of 168 yarns/inch, a weft density of 100T, and a weight of 180-220g/$m^2$ or 250-300g/$m^2$. The result of sanitary test about Escherichia coli, Staphilococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Salmonella typhimurium showed a sterilizing power of over 90% after cultivating for 30, 60, 120 minutes. And also its property was sustained after laundrying 20 times. The flame retardant properties showed a good result and complied with the flame retardant criteria of KOFEI 1001. Abrasion, laundry and light fastnesses of flame retardant fabrics showed 4-5 grades. The fabrics manufactured from 30's fiber appeared a little fluff and pill on the fabric. Therefore, they need a shearing process after finishing all processes to decrease the fluff or pill on the fabric. The flame retardant fabric manufactured from 30's and 40's fiber showed increased strength and elongation after soaping and dyeing finishing because the fabrics were shrunk.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.101-117
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• 2001

Artist's creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920's culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article's performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-34
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• 2007

This study was designed to collect a precise information concerning to the preference and evaluations after usage of pregnant Korean woman for the maternity wear bysurvey and wear tests. Through the survey, 212 respondents were asked to answer what type of maternity wear they prefer and what requirements for maternity wear design are important. According to the results of survey, the mostly preferred maternity wear items were pants and one-piece dress. Korean customers for maternity wear usually pay more for the one-piece dress than other items and they also usually put on medium price pants and low-price blouse. Concerning to the purchase criteria, it may be said that design and movability, fit factors are the buying decision criteria of great weight for Korean pregnant women. Special function most desired was thermal insulation, followed by buffer action, electromagnetic shield and quickly water-absorbent and dry property. Preferred maternity wear design details were flat collar, slightly fitted waist and empire style, gather skirt, rubber band waist. Wear test was performed for two kinds of blouse (BL) and one-piece dress (OP), and threekinds of pants (PT), which have different design details respectively. According to the wear test for ready-to-wear maternity garments, the garment which considers well the characteristics of Korean pregnant women body shape earned much higher score no matter of brands or prices. Generally, high-priced national brands received an excellent evaluation in design aspect, but not satisfied with comfort to move.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.75-75
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• 2003

The distinctive design of apparel product is the crucial factor that provides the powerful competitive advantage and customer satisfaction. However, knock-offs or copycats easily copy the design of apparel product and its problem tends to be assented in real world. Design right is one of intellectual property rights that would be produced by intellectual activity and the appropriate means to establish the exclusive rights to the design should be established. Legal protection to the design right is the system that can prelude copycats from eroding an exclusive position in the market place. The present study was to analyze the trend of registration of design rights in apparel products and to point out problems of current protection law to design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.812-824
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• 2022

This study proposes to develop a 3D printed re-entrant(RE) strip by shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane that can be deformed and recovered by thermal stimulation. The most suitable 3D printing infill density condition and temperature condition during shape recovery for mechanical behavior were confirmed. As the poisson's ratio indicated, the higher the recovery temperature, the closer the poisson's ratio to zero and the better the auxetic properties. After recovery testing for five minutes, it appeared that the shape recovery ratio was the highest at 70℃. The temperature range when the shape recovery ratio appeared to be more than 90% was a recovery temperature of more than 50℃ and 60℃ when deformed under a constant load of 100 gf and 300 gf, respectively. This indicated that further deformation occurred after maximum recovery when recovered at a temperature of 80℃, which is above the glass transition temperature range. As for REstrip by infill density, a shape recovery properties of 100% was superior than 50%. Additionally, as the re-entrant structure exhibited a shape recovery ratio of more than 90%, and exhibited auxetic properties. It was confirmed that the infill density condition of 100% and the temperature condition of 70℃ are suitable for REstrips for applying the actuator.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.856-865
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• 2011

This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.