• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.44-63
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the process to manufacture costume design of main female characters of TV historical drama and suggest the costume, which is developed with contemporary taste. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The study results were as follows. The costume was decided by researching historical investigation material on the basis of synopsis, grasping director's basic intention, setting design direction, preparing design map of each character, selecting style, detail, fabric and color, manufacturing sample and performing camera test. The design concept of was Modern & Chic & Clean, short & fitted chogori, chima with wide & abundant cocoon silhouette, clean & bright colors and 100% silk fabric. For the design discrimination of royal semi-formal costume, color was used to symbolize character and pattern was used to symbolize social status. In addition, detail change was adopted depending on the body shape of actor and there was almost no design discrimination in silhouette and fabric. Petticoat of the west, modernization of transitional pattern and change of detail were adopted as design elements to add contemporary taste.

• Elastomers and Composites
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• v.57 no.4
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• pp.157-164
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• 2022

Representative bulletproof materials, such as aramid or ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene(UHMWPE), have excellent strength and modulus in the plane direction but are very vulnerable to forces applied in the thickness direction. This paper reports a study on the effects of reinforcement in the thickness direction when bulletproof composite fabrics are prepared to improve their performance. Aramid and UHMWPE fabrics were combined using the film-bonding, needle-punching, or stitching methods and then subjected to low-velocity projectile and ball-drop impact tests. The results of the low-velocity projectile test indicated that the backface signature(BFS) decreased by up to 29.2% in fabrics obtained via the film-bonding method. However, the weight of the film-bonded fabric increased by approximately 23% compared with that obtained by simple lamination, and the fabric stiffened on account of the binder. Flexibility, light weight for wearability, and excellent bulletproof performance are very important factors in the development of bulletproof materials. When the needle-punching method was used, the BFS increased as the fibers sustained damage by the needle. When the composite fabrics were combined by stitching, no significant difference in weight and thickness was observed, and the BFS showed similar results. When a diagonal stitching pattern was employed, the BFS decreased as the stitching density increased. By contrast, when a diamond stitching pattern was used, the fabric fibers were damaged and the BFS increased as the stitching density increased.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.211-214
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• 2003

This paper presents the microscopic observation results from the picture frame test using five-harness satin weave fabric composite. Aligned and misaligned specimens are observed to verify the exact tow deformation pattern such as tow interval and change in tow amplitude. To observe the micro-deformation of the fabric structure, appropriate specimens from picture frame test are sectioned and observed under the microscope. From the observation results, it is found that a picture frame test with a misaligned fibre orientation angle shows large differences in deformation between tensile and compressive tow directions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.3 s.82
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• pp.8-15
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• 2005

Cationic dyeable polyester(CDP) fabric was annealed at varying temperatures range from $120^{\circ}C$ to $220^{\circ}C$ for 1, 3, and 5 min under tension. Dyeing rates of CDP fabrics were measured with cationic and disperse dyes at $100^{\circ}C$ and $120^{\circ}C$ in water system. Also X-ray diffraction pattern, DSC thermograms and dyeability of fabric with cationic and disperse dyes were investigated. The intensities of X-ray diffraction peaks of annealed fabric were increased with increasing in annealed temperature, and peak became sharp with heat setting temperature. The apparent color depth (K/S) of CDP fabric initially decreased with increase of heat-setting temperature up to $160\~180^{\circ}C$ and then increased at higher temperature. The shearing modulus(G) and surface roughness were increased with annealing temperature.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.160-173
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• 2011

Stripe has been one of the all-time favorite fabric patterns so far and the usages have been widely applied of nearly everything ranging from everyday dress to interior fabrics. As the times change, patterns of this simple geometrical design have gradually become varied. Many effects of stripe patterns have allowed the patterns to be used in fabrics for fashion design and the patterns are considered fit for expressing individual characteristics. By studying theoretical background on categories of stripe patterns and the characteristics as a design and by researching the trends and properties exhibited in the modern fabric design, this paper will seek the potential of stripe patterns for design of a modern sense and the directions to express the patterns as a value-added design. This research was conducted through literature, books published at home and abroad, research papers and photographs on stripe patterns. Domestic magazines, web research, and photographs published since 2000 were studied for an analysis of the trends and characteristics of stripe patterns displayed in the modern fabric design. As the results, this research will explain the tendencies of stripe patterns on the modern fabric designs divided into several ways: simple and restrained modernity, active and sporty property, mannishness putting practicality forward-emerging as the status of women rises, and femininity emphasizing elegant women. The characteristics of the Plastic are categorized simplicity, rhythmicality, and Mixing of patterns.

• Journal of Korean Living Environment System
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.533-540
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• 2017

This study analyzes the stretchability and clothing pressure of fabrics made from stretchy knit materials, and uses the baseline data to develop various functional clothing made from stretchy knit fabrics. To observe the changes in the stretchability and clothing pressure, we observed the compatibility of the two materials (tricot and power-net), presence of flat seam, fabric layering, and flat seam direction as key variables. A standard test method for stretch properties (ASTM D2594) was used for measuring the stretchability of the material. Clothing pressure measurements were analyzed in terms of the mean and standard deviation values, and the correlation of the stretchability. In the case of tricot, the presence of flat seam increased the stretchability of the fabric regardless of the fabric layering. However, when tricot and the less stretchable power-net were combined, the presence of flat seam did not increase the stretchability. Flat seam did not interfere with or limit the stretchability of the fabric, but they did increase the clothing pressure at the seam. The stretchability had a negative correlation with the clothing pressure except along the flat seam.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• Proceedings of the KIEE Conference
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• 2002.07c
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• pp.1467-1469
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• 2002

This paper aims to investigate the characteristics of braided thermoplastic and thermosetting composite and pressure relief for polymer arrester. In general, braided composite has potential for improved impact and delamination resistance. Manufacturing processes of the braided composite could also be automated and could potentially lead to lower costs. Therefore, in consideration of characteristics of pressure relief for polymer arrester, the fabric pattern of braided composite was studied. And polymer arrester module was manufactured with braid.