• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.108-123
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• 2023

Recent increase of eco-conscious trends and pleasure from Do It Yourself (DIY) activities have led to a surge in sales of package products bundling together clothing patterns and raw materials. However, a well-structured market system is yet to be established. We surveyed 460 women with sewing as a hobby who had purchased these DIY clothing pattern packages. The survey revealed that majority of respondents had their hobby for over five years. Choosing the right fabric to match clothing patterns presented a common challenge. Most participants owned a sewing machine and an overlocker, with price being the primary concern when purchasing a package. For guidance during the sewing process, participants preferred print materials featuring real-life images. Those with less sewing experience leaned towards video tutorials. Items of interest or those commonly created included blouses, shirts, and dresses. Desire for further learning in sewing and pattern-making was prominent, with a clear preference for online classes. Several strategies are recommended to enhance the appeal of DIY clothing package products, including broadening range of packages that incorporate fabric, offering supplementary educational resources to improve users' skills, implementing affordable pricing structures, supplying comprehensive creation guidelines, and making available design modification guides. These considerations could significantly boost customer satisfaction. This research intends to lay groundwork for understanding DIY clothing creation market, ultimately fostering production of highly desirable products. Insights of this study will prove instrumental in refining product development and devising effective marketing tactics, leading to a more rewarding consumer experience.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1080-1095
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• 2023

Three-dimensional virtual fitting has become a trending practice in the fashion industry because of its productivity benefits, allowing garments to be virtually worn by avatar models without physical production. This study analyzed the variables influencing clothing pressure in both real and virtual fittings to expand the potential utility of pressure data derived from the latter. For this purpose, six sets of compression garments were created by combining two types of tricot fabrics and three types of reduced-pattern tops, with the clothing for real and virtual fittings having identical dimensions. Focus was directed to analyzing the correlation among clothing pressure, surface area deformation, and the mechanical properties of the fabrics. In real fittings, clothing pressure was influenced by multiple factors, including garment design, pattern reduction ratio, body shape, and fabric properties, consistent with existing knowledge. In virtual fittings, however, only the digital mechanical characteristics of the fabrics significantly influenced clothing pressure. The findings suggest that a more reliable implementation of clothing pressure in virtual fitting programs necessitates an approach that considers the complex structural information of garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.48-61
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• 2010

Pearl gowns(Jeanju-eui)' of Princess Jekukdaejang which were imported from Yuan to Goryeo in 13'th century, but correct shape and detail were unkown. Princess Jekukdaejang was a queen of Goryeo and a daughter of Kublai Khan of early Yuan period, and pearls were the most precious jewel in Mongolia of medieval time. It is possible that the shapes of Jeanju-eui were nomadic mogolian women's costume or very new style yet in early Yuan just like sleeveless long vest. In the period of Yuan, pearls were beaded on the stiff thin fabric for summer or ornaments of ladies. Big pearls were made use of point spot of pattern or line of pattern, and small pearls were usually used to fill up devided parts or to bind outline. The shapes of deducted pearl gown are five kinds of women's deel and four kinds of long vest, and deducted parts for pearl decoration are golden band from shoulder to wrist and on the knees of gown, cloud shape collar, patches on the breast and on the back, slant collar, and patterns of fabric. Red color(the favorite color of Yuan ladies), artifical pearls, ramie, and golden brocade with the gloss of satin are selected as stuffs for sample of pearl gown, but 'reproducting old fabrics' was the most important problem in making correct pearl gowns. Suggested is a cooperation with fabric makers to develop alternate fabircs with patterns just like Yuan's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.453-463
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• 2021

The lengthwise and widthwise deformation of warp-knitted fabrics with different sizes and loading modes were evaluated. Moreover, five tricot samples cut in three directions were compared under four test conditions (A-D). In tests A and B, 500 and 250 g loads were applied on a layer of 20 × 20 and 5 × 10 cm² samples, respectively. In test C, a 20 × 20 cm² sample was folded in half over a rod, and 500 g load was applied to each half. In test D, a 20 × 20 cm² sample was sewn in a loop and subjected to a 500 g load. The lengthwise extension and widthwise contraction analysis results indicate that test B affords the largest values. However, analysis results of the warp-knitted fabric normalized through conversion to a 1 g load and 1 cm sample width indicate that the largest values are afforded for test D. Therefore, pattern reduction may vary depending on the measurement method and properties of the knitted fabric used for the compression wear production, causing variations in the finished product. Thus, an appropriate measurement method must be adopted based on the compression wear design and knitted fabric to be used.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.199-209
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• 2023

This study identified design elements of the functions required for children's ski pants. Data for this study were collected through questionnaire surveys conducted among children's ski instructors and children's sportswear developers. Five functionalities of children's skiwear were evaluated: mobility, stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. A total of 25 functional design elements related to the patterns, design details, and physical characteristics of fabrics for ski garments, were evaluated. The results of this study are as follows. First, children's sportswear developers evaluated that the pattern elements were important. Most of the pattern design elements highly related to mobility. Children's ski instructors' appraisal was that the height of the back waist was the important feature. Second, regarding the design details, children's ski instructors evaluated the size adjustment function and ventilation system as important elements. Many design detail elements were highly related in respect of stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. Third, the physical characteristics of fabric were strongly associated with mobility, comfort, and protection. As regards the physical characteristics of fabric, children's ski instructors valued anti-fouling highly, but children's sportswear developers attached more importance to the weight of the fabric. The results of this study will be useful in designing functional ski pants for children of elementary and intermediate ski levels. Since there may be limitations related to the ski level and age of children wearing ski pants, it is suggested that follow-up studies according to various groups of the ski pant wearers should be done.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1179-1193
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• 2010

For a good design, it is important to understand consumers and trend of textile and fashion design. Previous researches on textile pattern design with CAD have been done. They have studied on Korean traditional floral motives/hand painting or some geometric patterns. Few studies have been done on conversational design. Therefore the purpose of study was to observe types of textile pattern design for the recent fiver years and determine fabric pattern trends, especially on the conversational motifs. The types of patterns were analysed with professional panels from the 2005～2009 collection sources, using SPSS program. This study was also develop textile patterns creating using CAD. We conducted design process on motif creating, repeat, and mapping jobs, using textile special design program Prima vision and Photoshop CS3.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.77-77
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics dipped in cationic agent(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) were irradiated with deep Ultra Violet Rays(UV), in the region of UV-C using the low pressure mercury lamp. The chemical changes of cationized cotton fabric surfaces were investigated by FT-IR analysis. The dyeabilities of the irradiated portions were investigated by dyeing with acid dyes. Deep UV(UV-C) irradiation broke O-H bonds in cotton fiber and oxidized the fibers. The dyeability of the UV irradiated portion were different from that of the portion not irradiated. Various pattern were gained from one bath dig dyeing by pattern mask. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics were decreased in the UV irradiated portion. Washing fastness of cotton dyeings were good about 3∼4 grade and light fastness were fair about 2∼3 grade.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-8
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• 2002

Cotton fabrics dipped in cationic agent(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) were irradiated with deep Ultra Violet Rays(UV), in the region of UV-C using the low pressure mercury lamp. The chemical changes of cationized cotton fabric surfaces were investigated by FT-IR analysis. The dyeabilities of the irradiated portions were investigated by dyeing with acid dyes. Deep UV(UV-C) irradiation broke O-H bonds in cotton fiber and oxidized the fibers. The dyeability of the UV irradiated portion were different from that of the portion not irradiated. Various pattern were gained from one bath dig dyeing by pattern mask. The tensile strengths of cotton fabrics were decreased in the UV irradiated portion. Washing fastness of cotton dyeings were good about 3∼4 grade and light fastness were fair about 2∼3 grade.

• Proceedings of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.266-273
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• 1998

The object of this study is shape finding and cutting pattern generation of membrane structures under the following assumptions: (1) material is linearly elastic (2) stress state is plane stress. Cable and membrane structures should introduce the nonlinear analysis considering geometric nonlinearity because these structures deform largely under the external loads. The analysis procedure is consisted of three steps considering geometric nonlinearity unlike any other structures. First step is the shape finding analysis to determine the initial equilibrium shape. Second step is the stress-deformation analysis to investigate the behaviors of structures under various external loads. Once a satisfactory shape has been found, a cutting pattern based on the shape finding analysis may be generated from the view point of construction. In this paper, after shape finding analysis, cutting pattern determination procedure using weighted least-square minimization flattening method and some results are presented.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.30-47
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• 2013

In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed.