• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the Art-Deco style art and hair-style. Art-deco design, which was popular in the 20th century, especially in the 1920s and 1930s, actively absorbed new forms, materials, and aesthetic values that come from technological developments and bridged the tradition to new pupblic culture. Art-Deco style art showed and geometrical decoration tendency to meet modem concept and sense. The over all study on back grounds of Art-Deco style and its art works made possible to figure out the summary on formative characteristics of the style such as simplicity, exoticism, vivid colors, and functionalism. These findings suggest that hair styles borrow its characteristics or image from the past style to create new styles. It was found in the development of new hair styles that patterns or geometric motive appearing the Art-D$\acute{e}$eco style are the source of rich design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.48-60
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the romantic costume style which has become a big trend before and after the 21th century. For this purpose, I examined the development plans and characteristics of women's costume in France in the Romantic period from the 1820s to the 1850s and analyzed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic costume style The aesthetic characteristics of romantic style in the 19th century were defined by the feminine and elegant beauty, exoticism, and sensuality. Since the 1990s, the characteristics are classified into Feminine & Elegant Style, Ethnic & Fusion Style, and Sensual Style. Feminine & Elegant Style is characterized by delicate, splendid lace and frill decorations that have become more ornamental and technical since the 1990s. They create greater romance and express gentler and more elegant femininity away from the artificial silhouette. Ethnic & Fusion Style use more diverse ethnic patterns, colors, accessories, and details since the 1990s and shows more varieties and creativity in convergence with modern fashion. Sensual Style exposes the physical curve of female body. In the 19th century, cuffs and collars were exaggerated and shoulders were exposed for sensuality. After the 1990s, however, see-through materials have been used to show the beauty of natural physical curves or corsets have been worn as the outerwear. Studying romantic costume style, which arose as a concept of postmodernism, the cultural ideology that exists as a breakthrough of our time, is signified by the understanding of the latest cultural phenomenon and fashion trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.431-445
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and theorize the characteristics of femme fatale in fashion illustration since 1980. The method of this study was to analyze the documentaries for theoretical studies about femme fatale and the visual characteristics in fashion illustration works since 1980. The results of this study were as follows: Femme fatale expressed in the general realm of art was icon of fatal and seductive eroticism in late 19th century. She is composed of diverse images like mythology, exoticism, fear and sensuality. The characteristics of her image in fashion illustration were expressed into de-body image by union of animal and female body, or machine and female body, duplicity of death and sexuality, sexual decadence or abnormality and powerful masculine taste. First, de-body image by union of animal and female body, or machine and female body was expressed in transformed mythical image or bizarre and demonic image, grotesque image linked by picture of female body and painting of animal image, and cyborg image linked by machine and realistic female body by digital media. Second, duplicity of death and sexuality was expressed in juxtaposition by sexual pose, body and something metaphorical and symbolic depiction and de-constructive depiction of death. Third, sexual decadence or abnormality was expressed in fetishistic style, obscene depiction of cheap and hedonistic sexuality, masochistic depiction like antisocial and diseased sex appeal. Forth, powerful masculine taste was expressed in man's face, body, pose, masculine fashion, man's role related to crime and threatening weapon, etc. As mentioned above, femme fatale in fashion illustration was expressed in diverse images by fashion illustrator's point of view. Although she was originated by men's fantastic vision, she brings a catharsis to human being. And she is also recognized as new paradigm and positive cultural sign in our times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.73-84
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• 2011

Upholstery style is the form which bulges a shape by putting fillings in the support and covering them with patterned textile or pile fabric. Modern upholstery style was combined with the various socio-cultural products and artistic styles and expressed in interior furniture and costumes of historical time periods. The style first originated when people built houses for settlement and made furniture to decorate its interior. The characteristics of upholstery style came to be prominent in the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo times with the development of science and textile industry. The interior furniture represented the ages of the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo and were made with similar images of the architectural style from those different time periods. Textiles, tapestry, velvet, corduroy, damask, brocade, and the most frequently used velvet are elements that make up the structural and figurative features of the architectural style. The upholstery style of furniture also shows the forms of clothing that represents each of the different periods. This style still continues to be used today. In modern day fashion, the figurative characteristics of the upholstery style that derives from interior furniture and clothing from the different time periods are bulkiness, asymmetry and exoticism. Such figurative characteristics have evolved through the combination of diverse genres but it still maintains similar designs and forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.28
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• pp.17-36
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• 2012

This essay places the South Korean film Thirst (2009) within Park Chan-wook's oeuvre as a filmmaker notorious for graphic depictions of violence and revenge. Park's use of dark humour in his films, which is emphasized in Thirst perhaps more than ever, allows for a more self-aware depiction of violence, where both the viewer and the protagonist are awakened to the futility of revenge. This ultimately paints his characters as fascinatingly crazy - simultaneously heroes, villains, and victims. Film theorist Wes D. Gehring's three themes of dark humour ('man as beast,' 'the absurdity of the world,' and 'the omnipresence of death') become most obvious in Park's most recent film, which pays closer attention to character development through narrative detail. Rather than portraying the characters as sentimental, dark humour depicts their misfortunes in an alternative way, allowing for consideration of such taboo subjects as religion, adultery, and death/suicide. These issues are further tackled through Thirst's portrayal of its vampire protagonist, which ultimately de-mystifies the traditional vampire figure. While this character has more often been associated with romance, exoticism and the mystical powers of the supernatural, Thirst takes relatively little from the demons of Nosferatu (Murnau, 1922) and various other Dracula adaptations, nor the romantic figures of Interview with the Vampire (Jordan, 1994), and Twilight (Hardwicke, 2008). Instead, it is part of a much smaller group of contemporary vampire films, which are rather informed by a postmodern reconfiguration of the monster. Thus, this paper examines Thirst as an important contribution to the global and hybrid nature of those films in which postmodern vampires are sympathetic and de-mystified, exhibiting symptoms stemming from a natural illness or misfortune. Park's undertaking of a vampire film allows for a complex balance between narrative and visuals through his focus on the Western implications of this myth within Korean cinema. This combination of international references and traditional Korean culture marks it as highly conscious of New Korean Cinema's focus on globalization. With Thirst, Park successfully unites familiar images of the vampire hunting and feeding, with more stylistically distinct, grotesque images of violence and revenge. In this sense, dark humour highlights the less charming aspects of the vampire struggling to survive, most effective in scenes depicting the protagonist feeding from his friend's IV in the hospital, and sitting in the sunlight, slowly turning to ash, in the final minutes of the film. The international appeal of Park's style, combining conventions of the horror/thriller genre with his own mixture of dark humour and non-linear narrative, is epitomized in Thirst, which underscores South Korea's growing global interest with its overt international framework. Furthermore, he portrayal of the vampire as a sympathetic figure allows for a shift away from the conventional focus on myth and the exotic, toward a renewed construction of the vampire in terms of its contribution to generic hybridization and cultural adaptation.