• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.387-403
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• 2003

This study aims to analyse a trend of exoticism which is often mentioned in the contemporary western fashion. I analyse the internal elements of the exoticism in the fashion. By applying these elements to the exoticism of modern fashion, I intended to make it a useful instrument fur interpreting modern fashion. The results of this study are as follows. The internal elements of exoticism are summarized as escapism, curiosity, fantasy, hybridism and pluralism. 1. From the 19th century to the 1960s . The exoticism shown in the western fashion are influenced by such elements as curiosity and escapism. And diverse and plural exotic elements added a fantastic element to the exoticism. 2. After 1960s : Escapism acted much more because people thought exoticism offer a refuge from overall social problems of modern consumer society. Late in the 20th century, fantastic and hybrid element became more prominent in exoticism. And I found pluralistic view point was the other element of exoticism.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2009

Exoticism, by definition, is 'the charm of the unfamiliar', usually because of associations with a distant country. In the western-centric world, exoticism implies non-western or oriental style. The purpose of this study was to identify Koreans' perception of "Exoticism", and to compare the perception of exotic fashion image according to gender and education differences. Empirical study was composed of two parts focusing on gender and education effects respectively. For the first part, data were collected by self-administered questionnaires distributed to 280 respondents at 2 universities and 2 high schools during August and September 2005. The sample was consisted of 140 male and 140 female. A measurement, including 24 image adjectives to evaluate 16 fashion stimuli, was developed. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, correlations, t-test, and MDS. There was no difference in the perception of exotic fashion image according to gender. Both gender groups perceived exotic image as western image and non-exotic image as oriental image. Thus it could be said that Koreans perceive western-based fashion as foreign and exotic. This finding implies the relativity of "Exoticism." In the second part, the measurement and the analysis methods were the same with the first part. The respondents were consisted of 70 fashion majored female students and 70 non-fashion majored female students. There was considerable difference between fashion and non-fashion major groups in their perception of exotic fashion image. Whereas non-fashion major group perceived exotic image as western image and non-exotic image as oriental image, fashion major group perceived exotic image as both western and oriental image. This result suggested that fashion major group have western-centered conception as well as general perception character of Korean.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.3778-3786
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• 2015

해방 후 1950-60년대 이국성을 담고 있는 대중가요를 분석함으로써 관광언어의 차별적 특징으로서 이국성이 포함되고 있는지 그리고 동시에 이국성의 불안과 떠나온 출발지와의 고리로서 친숙성은 보다 구체적으로 어떠한 형태로 노래가사를 통해 재현되고 있는지를 알아보았다. 대중가요의 작사가들은 개인적 체험 혹은 작가적 상상력 발휘를 통해 노래의 배경이 되는 외국의 특정장소의 이국성을 과장, 재창조 더 나가 정형화하고 있음을 발견하였다. 또한 동시에 친숙한 언어를 사용하면서 장소를 의인화하거나 해당 장소의 젊은 처자를 등장시키거나 혹은 작중 화자가 떠나 온 고향을 의도적으로 언급함으로써 이국성의 불안을 완충시키고 있다. 연구를 통해서 20세기 초 중반에 잠재적 관광객이 가진 관광지에 대한 당시의 대중의 집단적 상상력을 알아보는 시도이기도 하다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the style of Marlene Dietrich who was a Hollywood legend in 1930s and has influenced on modern fashion. The characteristics of Dietrich style showed androgyny, sensualism and exoticism. Dietrich has been famous for wearing tailored pantsuit on and off-screen with mannish gesture and had great effect on women's wearing pants. Her confident, sexy mannish style represented her androgyny glamourously and proved she had a taste for a classic. Her sensualism focused on her famous legs because she understood the sex appeal of woman's legs. She showed her legs by wearing pants and decorative stockings, or matching colors of stockings and shoes to make her legs look longer and sexier by illusion. Her exoticism against a backdrop of black and white image, was presented with luxurious, sensual fabrics such as furs, feathers and velvet, along with dazzling accessaries. Also she didn't forget to manipulate angles of camera and lights for the engraving figure of her own. Her charisma directed her fashion image in detail and made herself a fashion icon in 1930s.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from ${\ulcorner}Gap\;Collections{\lrcorner}$. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion. ${\cdot}$Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials. ${\cdot}$Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness. ${\cdot}$Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization. ${\cdot}$Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to study the aesthetic character of a mosaic which is expressed in the Modern Costume. The methods of the research were by literature and it was mainly done with reference to master's theses, doctor's theses, separate volumes, periodicals, domestic and overseas fashion magazines and internet on the subject. The result of the research appears as rhythm, exoticism, abstraction, mystery, recreation by disintegration. First, rhythm appears in a sense of free rhythm with the method of arranging motives and the kinds of materials varying. Second, exoticism gives impression with such motives as Oriental designs, African designs and the geometric designs of nature occupying the surface. Third, abstraction displays motives such as unrealistic fashion. Fourth, mystery gives a cyber-related impression with the help of such scientific materials as fluorescent plastics, metal and glass. Fifth, recreation pelves an aesthetic impression by reorganizing the costume with the disintegration and transformation of Industrial materials such as plastics, metal and glass, etc. based on their unique colors and quality.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.5-30
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.225-242
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• 1999

Generally people and their lives are the basic object of literary works. Although each literary work possesses a different degree of significance depending upon the author's intention the description of costume becomes an indispensable factor in the formation of characters and the social background. In this paper the types of men's and women's clothing in fashion from 1895 to 1942 are studied fior the purpose of understanding the correlation between hyo-Suk's description of the attire and the vogue of the time. Consequently it was clarified that his descriptions of costume have an analogy with the fashion during the era. Especially this study ascertains that the beauty of costume as a formative art emphasizes the altered inherited and developing traditional Korean beauty influenced by exoticism. In conclusion the aesthetic consciousness of Hyo-Suk Lee tells us clearly that the beauty of Korea is the universal beauty apprecialted regardless of place and time. Such an aestheitic consciousness is not rigid but continously transforming. his literarywork clearly shows a new aesthetic categry formed by combination of traditonal Korean beauty and the aesthetic consciousness of exoticism.

• 수완나부미
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.95-119
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• 2016

From the migrant care-workers arriving in Japan from the Philippines and Indonesia to support the depleted social support system for the large population of the elderly (Ogawa 2012) to the increasing number of retiring Japanese embarking on long-stay tourism in Malaysia (Ono 2015), the Japanese image of Southeast Asia as an exotic destination offering cheap labor in return for official development assistance seems to be fading away. Yet these changes are not necessarily reflected in the way contemporary Japanese, especially those who belong to the global, "spiritual-but not-religious" (Fuller 2001) population, think of and "consume" Southeast Asia in their daily lives. Using three case-studies, spiritual tours, Thai massage, and an NGO founded by a Japanese spiritual therapist, this paper argues that in Japan's large spiritual market, which targets people seeking alternative ways to express their religiosity, the old-fashioned colonial exoticism of Southeast Asian narratives were integrated in a totalizing discourse, in which Japan remains the exceptional outlier (Tanaka 1993), a country still claimed to be "advanced" both spiritually and economically.