• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.185-204
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to take into consideration the formative and aesthetic characteristics of wedding dresses that existed during the periods of Neo-Classicism and Romanticism which appeared as a reaction toward Neo-Classicism. The method of the research was mainly focused on precedent research data and general references. Furthermore the data on wedding dresses was mainly collected from British, French, and American library and museum web sites. The result of the research is the following. The Neo-Classicism art, which appeared along with the enlightenment in the beginning of the 19th century, pursues beauty based on associations and imitations of ancient Greek and Roman arts. In addition to aforementioned pursuits, the Neo-Classicism art also pursued universal beauty and social usefulness through law and order. This aesthetic value was also applied to the wedding dresses, so classical beauty, natural beauty and universal beauty were expressed as follows: corsets of the previous era were removed from general clothing and Empire style that imitated natural Greek style became predominant. Also, muslin replaced high quality clothes which were used as the main materials of the dressing during the previous era. Empire style's wedding dress became popular and simple colors and styles of the wedding dress expressed the beauty of the human body and emphasized civility at the same time. Romanticism art and costumes opposed rationalism and pursued sentimentalism. Moreover, it pursued diversity, exotic tastes and accepted diverse reactionism unlike Neo-Classicism's simplification and standardization. These aesthetic characteristic were applied to the wedding dress of this period; wedding dress of romanticism pursued feminine and elegant beauty with "X" silhouettes and various decorations, like general costumes. And they were decorated with a variety of excessive accessories, details and trimmings to express romantic sentimentalism. Exotic tastes which included Chinese, Egyptian, Indian influence and other diverse tastes were expressed through hair style, accessories and patterns of shawl. However, the white color in the wedding dress revealed purity and sanctity which cannot be found from general costumes regardless of whether the dress expressed Neo-classicism or Romanticism. As a formal dress worn during wedding ceremonies, the wedding dresses of the royalty revealed dignity and authority and significantly influenced later wedding dress designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.525-540
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• 2003

This survey paper aims to compare two significant figures in the history of Haute Couture e.g, Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, who played a leading role between 1910 and 1930. It is found here that they have common features with respect to giving freedom to body through costume, enlarging Garconne Mode, creating more value of Costume Jewelry, exploiting advertisement strategy using models, proving exotic styles, and last but not the least contributing to Haute Couture. The research shows, however, that Poiret differs from Chanel in that he made most of various natural colors whereas Chanel used black or beige colors that had been rarely used woman wear previously. They also differed in using fabric, permitting copy by others, ingredients and bottling of perfume, meaning of silhouette. This kind of comparative research is expected to provide more understanding of fashion history and to contribute to more rigorous analysis of key success factors of designers in his or her age of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.581-588
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• 1997

Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.154-171
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• 2010

This study is to examine and compare the brand power such as image, satisfaction and loyalty, of the main brands(Donna Karan, Anne Kelin, Michaa, Obzee) with successful second brands(DKNY, AK Anne Klein, it michaa, O'2nd) to launch the brand Extension. The results are the following. First, in the many demographical characteristics, the main brand most favored by women in their 20s were only affected by age. Second, All 4 brands had a strong urbane and luxurious image, while 'exotic' or 'sporty' scored the bottom. Third, the results of the brand satisfaction were given out different values for the 4 brands. The overall satisfaction level was highest in Donna Karan and Obzee equally. Fourth, if we look at the brand loyalty level of the brands, Donna Karan scored highest followed by Obzee, Michaa, and Anne Klein. All 4 brands have shown that customers had high confidence to the brand and a high willingness to repurchase them. Fifth, about how the images of the main brand influence the satisfaction level of the brands. For Donna Karan, Michaa, and Obzee, the brand images did have effects on the brand satisfaction, but Anne Klein's brand image didn't affect its satisfaction level. Sixth, all 4 brands have shown that satisfaction levels had effects in brand loyalty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.1-18
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between costumes of court masque and the fashion trend at that time, by the analysis of the portraits. The period in this thesis is from Elizabeth I (1588-1603), until James I (1603-1625), when Inigo Jones was actively involved in court in masque, and when the traits of court masque began to appear in costume. The research material of this thesis is from the papers, costume design sketches, portraits and miniatures. As a result the costume of court masque which is the mixture of that of ancient Greece, Rome, middle age, and the exotic style of Ireland and Persian, had a great impact on the general fashion, and the unique pattern f costume became prevalent in the end of 16th and the early 17th century. This thesis might help us understand and special costume of that age and study the way how it come to have an influence on the fashion of the costume pertaining mainly to the privileged class.

• Journal of Forest and Environmental Science
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.64-71
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• 2024

Mushroom is very important to rural dwellers due to the various economic, health and nutritional benefits that can be derived from its consumption, sales and utilization. Hence, this experiment was carried out with a view to evaluating the influence of locally available substrate i.e., sawdust of different wood species on the cultivation of Pleurotus ostreatus (oyster mushroom). Pleurotus ostreatus was grown on sawdust (indigenous and exotic species) using two pretreatment methods, which included hot water treatment to remove (a water-soluble extract) and non-extracted sawdusts (substrate). The result of this study showed that there was a significant difference in the effect of different wood species selected. Parkia biglobosa produced a better yield (71.06 g), followed by Anogeissus leiocarpus (53.17 g) and Gmelina arborea (51.39 g) in a non-treated unextracted states. In the treated samples, Parkia biglobosa has the highest yield (50.61 g) followed by Anogeissus leiocarpus (49.28 g) and Gmelina arborea (45.00 g). Thus, Parkia biglobosa and Anogeissus leiocarpus produced a higher yield of mushroom either in a treated or non-treated state and they could be recommended for growing oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus).

• Korean Journal of Environment and Ecology
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.314-325
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• 2014

We studied fish fauna at 10 study sites in Ungcheon stream for 4 times from April to October, 2011 to investigate the influence of artificial structures such as dam (with fish-way) and weir (without fish-way), and abandoned mine on fish community. A total of 12 families, 36 species of fishes were collected. Dominant species was Zacco platypus (23.4%) and subdominant species was Zacco koreanus (20.5%). Ten species (27.8%) of Korean endemic species and Micropterus salmoides, exotic species, were observed during the study period. Endangered species of Korea such as Pseudopungtungia nigra and Liobagrus obesus, and Korean endemic species, Coreoperca herzi, which are vulnurable for water quality and had been observed in previous study, were not identified in this study. According to the cluster analysis, Ungcheon stream were divided into three groups consisting upstream (St.1, St.2, St.3), midstream (St.4, St.5, St.6, St.7), downstream (St.8, St.9, St.10). Community structure similarity between upper and lower site of Boryeong dam with fish-way (St.6-St.7) was high, whereas that of weir, lack of fish-way (St.7-St.8) showed little similarity indicating that fish-way was required. According to the canonical correlation analysis, high level of conductivity and salinity at upstream was detected and Misgurnus mizolepis, and endemic species of Korea such as Silurus microdorsalis, Coreoleuciscus splendidus and Iksookimia koreensis were observed at this part of the stream. Since Korean endemic species, Squalidus gracilis majimae cohabit with exotic species, M. Salmoides at downstream whose width is wide and water velocity is low, protection was needed for these endemic species.

• Korean Journal of Ecology and Environment
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.301-310
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• 2008

This study was to analyze characteristics of fish compositions and longitudinal distribution, based on trophic and tolerance guild at 22 sampling sites of Yeongsan River watershed during 2003$\sim$2006, and also to compare before and after the estuary dam construction. The collected fishes, based on catch per unit effort (CPUE), were 44 species in the watershed and dominant fishes were Zacco platypus, Acheilognathus macropeterus, Zacco temminckii and Carassius auratus. According to comparative analysis of fish in the non polluted sites (NPS) vs. polluted sites (PS), the number of species and individuals was lower by 70% in the PS than the NPS, indicating ecological degradations by chemical pollutions or/and habitat modifications. The relative abundance of sensitive and insectivore species decreased as the stream order increases, while tolerant and omnivore species increased with the stream order. In this survey, largemouth bass (Micropterus salmoides), which is a top-carnivore and exotic species, may influence trophic guild system throughout active predations on endemic species, resulting in modifications of ecological functions. The construction of estuary dam on Yeongsan River in 1981 resulted in wider lacustrine zone and desalinated through limitation of seawater input. These physical changes have caused increases of lentic dwelling species and limited fish migrations (i.e., eel). Overall, fish fauna and composition analyses showed that the number of species and individuals in this water body may be reduced due to inputs of pollutants from the watershed, habitat modifications, and increases of exotic species (largemouth bass). For these reasons, effective lake management strategies are required for the ecosystem conservation.