• Title/Summary/Keyword: excavated costumes

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Effect of Fumigation on the Strength of Excavated Costumes (훈증처리가 출토복식유물의 강도 변화에 미치는 영향)

  • 채옥자;박성실;안춘순
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.591-598
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    • 2004
  • This study examines the effects and influences of fumigation using chemical composite of Methyl Bromide and Ethylene Oxide on the change of strength of excavated dresses. The fabric strength immediately after washing and fumigation increased slightly, but it decreased greatly as the time progressed. The strength of the test sample from Museum A showed a steady decrease with time, while that of Museum B decreased rapidly 5 months later. Compared with the non-fumigated sample, fumigated sample was greater in strength regardless of the time progression, and the strength of sample kept in the exhibit hall was greater than that kept in the storage room. The strength of the fumigated sample was almost same regardless of the three different time periods, before washing, after washing and immediately after fumigation, and it decreased steadily with time, whereas the non-fumigated sample became much weaker in its strength in 10 months after washing. Even 5 months later, the fumigated sample was about as strong as immediately after fumigation, but the strength dropped to a great extent 10 months later.

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Proposition for Conservation of Traditional Costumes - Mainly on the replication of Milchanggun's Jobok - (복식유물의 보존을 위한 제안 - 밀창군 조복의 복제를 중심으로 -)

  • Chae, Ok-Ja;Park, Chi-Sun;Park, Sung-Sil
    • 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2004.10a
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    • pp.75-80
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    • 2004
  • We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication . a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on. Accordingly, the above two methods are to be preceded by a deep and through research and study on the relics of replication. This study on the relics having an important cultural property value presents the preservation of tile cultural assets of traditional costume through the two replication processes and results and a flew pattern of exhibition.

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A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong (관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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Characteristics of Woman's Jogori through the costumes excavated from ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) grave and preserved in Yeoju Museum Gyeounggi Province, Korea (여주박물관 소장 창녕조씨(1721~1742)묘 복식을 통해 본 여자저고리의 조형적 특성)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.218-230
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    • 2012
  • The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

The Costume Culture in Early 17th Century Perspectives Through Excavated Letters of Hyun-Poong Kwak's Family (17세기 전기 현풍 곽씨 집안의 의생활에 대한 소고)

  • 이은주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.8
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    • pp.25-41
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    • 2001
  • This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.

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The Characteristics of Excavated Fabrics from the Couple's Tomb of Jinju Ryu (진주류씨(晉州柳氏) 합장 묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.2
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    • pp.51-62
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    • 2007
  • This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

Identification and Formation Factor of White Crystals on the Excavated Costumes from Shim Su-Ryun's Tomb (심수륜 묘 출토복식에서 발견되는 백색 결정의 동정 및 생성 요인)

  • Lee, Young Eun;Choi, Seokchan
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.13
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    • pp.37-44
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    • 2012
  • White crystals on 46 costumes excavated from Shim Su-Ryun(1534 - 1589)'s tomb were examined their characterization and distribution. In 36 of such samples, white crystals with different shape and hardness were found. The formation of crystals did not correlated with a kind and use of textiles. However, crystals were found in the back side than the front of costume, specially around the marks of shrouding dead body. White crystals from 7 textiles were investigated by EPMA, XRD, or FT-IR. The composition of white crystal was analysed by EPMA and the structure characterization of crystals was used by X-ray diffraction. FT-IR spectroscopy was applied to check if non-crystalline compounds were also present. Mg and P were detected as the main element of white crystals and these compounds were identified a struvite and newberyite, the inorganic mineral magnesium ammonium phosphates. Struvite precipitation are influenced by many factors including concentration of Mg2+, NH4+, and PO43- ions, pH, and temperatures. It is assumed that magnesium, phosphorous, ammonia, a base material of struvite comes from decomposition product of human body. Tomb covered with lime, a unique triple-structure in Joseon period offering the basic condition, an anaerobe in a coffin, and high magnesium concentration of outer coffin with lime can be inferred as important factor for precipitation of crystals.

A Study on the Noble Lady's Costumes of 18 Centuries -excavated from Andong Gwon's(1664~1722) grave- (18세기 여성 염습의 의 일례에 관한 고찰 -안동권씨(1664~1722) 출토복식을 중심으로-)

  • 송미경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.6
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    • pp.115-126
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    • 2002
  • This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

Sewing Construction of the 17th Century-Clothing Through the Excavated Costume - Based on Tombs in O chang - (출토복식을 통해본 17세기 봉제구성 -임경백.임계백 묘 중심-)

  • 장인우
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.1
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    • pp.33-48
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    • 2001
  • This study is on the sewing construction of the 17th century clothing through the Excavated Costumes in O-chang, ChungBuk in 1998. The followings are the results of this study. There are various sewing constructions in this excavates costume : a running stitch.a back stitch.a half back stitch.a french seam.a gobsol(korean traditional seam sewing). We can see that the sewing construction of the 17th century-clothing depends on construction styles : one layer, two layers, clothing padded with cotton(include quilt). We can see that sewing construction in the one taler clothing consisted of a running stitch, a french seam, a gobsol seam. In the two layer clothing the construction included a running stitch and half back stitch. a running switch and a decorated top stitch(3stitch) were used in the clothing padded with cotton. We can see that the sewing construction enhanced the function of keeping the shape of clothing and the raw edges. We can see that the shape of clothing is important in presentation of aesthetic of the clothing. Such a kind of sewing construction lasted from the early Chosen Dynasty through the 17th century.

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A Study on a Symmetric Collared Jackets in Early Joseon Dynasty -Based on the Excavated Costumes of Seok-nam-dong, Incheon- (조선전기 여성용 대금형(對襟形) 상의류에 관한 연구 -인천 석남동 출토복식을 중심으로-)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.6 s.115
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    • pp.135-144
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    • 2007
  • This study is about the three pieces of jackets with a symmetric collar that was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin excavated in 2004, from Seok-nam-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon. The similarities of these three jackets are that the collars are symmetric, there are seops(the outer bodies to overlap the front sides of a jacket) with pleats, and openings on the side seam. The No.2, and No.6 seem to be jegori to wear over others, and the fabrics used for No.2 is damask with cloud pattern, and damask with lotus flower pattern. For the No.4, satin was used and there is peacock pattern weaved on satin using golden thread. No.41 is unlined clothes made with Suk-cho, and the distinctive feature about this clothes is that the collar, and the neckline are very narrow. The three jackets are similar with the recently reported clothes of Kim clan of Gang-leung (deducted to be buried in 1520), the collection of Seok Joo-sun Memorial Museum. Through this report, it provides information about some aspects of upper class women's clothes.