• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.55-70
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to offer a new inspiration for fashion design relating the "Romanticism" in art to one in fasion-examining the circumstance expressionad the latest trend which is involved with it. Since. 1990. Romanticism is motivated and represented in the middle of aridity in this age which is going on the end (of age). To say the details Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is classified in four categories : Retro Avantgarde, Minimal and Ethnic. First Retro mood in Romanticism is represented by reappearing the costumes in medieval Renaissance Baroque Rococo, Romantic era Specially corsets crinolines bustle decorative ribbons frills and Medieval symbols in religion are important factors in intuitional symbolic Romanticism. Second Avantgrde mood in Romanticism is mainly represented in the oriental patterns colors items being motivated by Eastern customs images and cultures. Today they appear in modern concept reinterpreting 'fusion" "hybrid" and "cross-over". Romanticism in fashion is creating new forms and beauties absorbing the past and the present. In addition it is motivated by the nostalgic mood. the expectation for the future and the refineent. Romanticism would be an important fashion theme to offer new inspirations for the fashion in 21th century rather than remain at the reappearance.er than remain at the reappearance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.155-166
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• 2011

The purposes of this study was to examine Chinese consumers's perception toward Korean fashion brands. Especially, this study aimed to compare the Chinese consumers in three local groups (Beijing, Shanghai, & Yangji). The subjects used for this study were one hundred ninety-six participants(male; 110, female; 86) in 20s age who live in China. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, Cronbach's alpha, and t-test were used. Cronbach's alpha test revealed that all instruments which were used for this study had over 0.85. As the results, first, 67.9% of Chinese consumers perceived Korean brands correctly as Korean brands. Also, 42.5% of Chinese participants had purchased Korean fashion brand products such as Teenie Weenie or E-land. Second, there were not significant differences in brand attitudes among three group participants. However, there was a significant difference in 'brand preference' factor, one of three brand attitudes, between two ethnic groups. Finally, there were not signifiant differences in brand image, while there was a significant difference in intelligent brand image, one of 4 brand image factors, between two ethnic groups. These results of this study would be very useful for Korean fashion brand marketers in order to understand Chinese fashion consumers more details, and provide more efficient fashion marketing strategies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.122-139
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• 1999

Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various factors, including some major artistic movements, which influenced on the formative characteristics of Paco Rabanne\`s fashion design. First, Paco Rabanne\`s fantastic new materials is also influenced by his study in architecture and his own fantasies -which other people can hardly imagine- during his early childhood. Second, light one of the most important element in Paco Ranbanne\`s fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Third, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne\`s fashion include surrealism, opart, and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant -garde style represents the influence of surrealism. his experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with opart and kinetic art in the early 1960s which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Fourth, the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles represent the influence of Egyptian architecture like pyramids and the geometrical characteristics of Eguptian art. Fifth, Paco Rabanne\`s distinctive use of metal chains in his fashion shows the influence of the chain mail hauberk, the medieval knightly armour. By using the medieval material Paco Rabanne properly expressed the modern person\`s pain and suffering. Sixth, the ethnic elements of Egypt, Africa, Spain, and Japan reflect the experience in his former lives he insists he lived. The ethnic elements of his dresses emphasize the natural vitality and inheritance from the past.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1047-1058
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• 2009

Japanism represents a Japanese sense presented in Collections by many world-class western designers who are inspired by Japanese Kimonos. This study analyzes how the traditional Japanese costumes were applied to the modern clothing and the mix and match style appeared at the Japanism fashion based on the Fashion Collections during the three years from the spring of 2006 to the winter of 2008. The analysis was performed based on preceding studies, literature, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and the Collections during the three years. The results of this study on Japanism covers: the application of Kimono design, Kimono sleeves, Kimono neck line to coats, jackets, one-pieces, and blouses; the application of traditional geometrical patterns, flower patterns, and natural patterns. These patterns were presented by print, dyeing, and embroidery; lastly, the employment, utilization, function, and adjustment of Obi(belt) to Japanese style clothing and also to modern clothing. Japanism fashion presented sportism, feminism, and eroticism by using mix and match. This analysis can contribute to the application of the ethnic clothing to modern clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.123-130
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• 2008

Symbolizing holiness, wealth and power, golden color was most effective to express the absolute power of royal family and aristocratic society as well as the beauty of magnificent and brilliant authority. Such golden color was understood as the artistic color formed in the dictatorial society as well as the society under the rule of absolute monarch. Thus, it has been used in the costume that symbolizes nobleness, holiness, brilliancy, ethnicity and future-oriented property. In this sense, the image of golden color shown in contemporary fashion was analyzed as follows in this research: First, showing the future-oriented image, golden color expresses avant-garde, cyber and cosmic future-oriented image by using diverse new materials which introduce the state-of-the-art technology sense in addition to metallic textile. Second, getting hint from the ethnic costume of many countries around the world such as brilliant embroidery using golden-thread, ornament with exaggerated technique such as gold foil, mark and character in peculiar tint, the ethnic image of golden color expressed the peculiar color or materials of ethnic costume, handicraft details, etc in golden color. Third, since golden color is expressed in ostentatious image to which elegance and luxuriousness that looks like the work of haute-couture costume of royal family or sensuality that voluptuously expresses the beautiful body line of women are added, the viewers are enchanted or attracted.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.201-216
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• 1994

The materialism prevalent in the modern industrial society and concern for the destruction of nature have led people to long for the returning to nature and excite their nostalgia for old. These phenomena induced in modern fashion naturalism retrospectivism ethnicism and primitivism. In the following we present our findings in regard the roles and relationships of the tie dying with the modern fashion design. in regard the roles and relationships of the tie dying with the modern fashion design. The common basic themes are founded as follows; 1. Naturalism: The tie dying is from very old times and has evolved in many parts of the world producing their own natural designs and color. They bear the characteristic of nature; the pleasantness smoothness and complexity. 2. Individualism and hand made: No two items produced by the tie dying technique are identical even though they are similar by design and their individuality is to some extent determined by chance. The retrospetivism and individualism are themes relating to the modern fashion. 3. Ethnicism and primitivism: The tie dying brings up the 'ethnic and traditional' to us and their designs and colors present the new images of the ethnic and primitive influences to the modern designs. 4. Ecology recyle and grunge look: The tie dying represent the recycle of the used natural resources such as making the old cloths useful again in new forms by tie dying them. The old clothes thus restored show wrinkled untidy and somewhat loosely fit form. This image of 'grunge look' is one of the central theme of the modern fashion.