• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.155-167
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• 2009

This study reviewed the basic principle of "Maximalism" fashion and analyzed the properties of fashion types with found the frequencies of various styles and design factors of "Maximalism" fashion in collection. The limits of this study is from 2001, s/s, maximalism was embossed in a modem fashion, to 2007, f/w, and collected the fashion collection pictures from www.samsungdesign.net and www.style.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most frequent style of "Maximalism" design showed in International fashion collection was "exaggerated style." Second, the design factors of "Maximalism" fashion were also examined. In case of silhouette, "hourglass silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used. In case of materials, the soft materials were the most frequently used. Third, the frequencies of design factors of maximalism by presentation types was compared and analyzed. In case of expansion, "bulk silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette to be appeared, and about multi-ethnic, futurelism, and elegance, "hourglass silhouette" was frequent appeared. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used in all types. In case of materials, the hard materials were the most frequently used in expansion, multi-ethnic and futurelism. "Maximalism" fashion which is most splendid trend would grow up rapidly in the modem fashion market and influence on the other fashion trend in our every day life. Consequently, this research can be referred as practical information in fashion marketing and it will contribute to the future fashion research as well.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 1999

The purpose of the study was to investigate brand images and fashion leaderships of women's wear manufacturers targeting middle-aged women or older women. Thus, this study was to be an exploratory study to investigate clothing behavior of elderly female consumers and search apprel niche-market for them. The questionnaire consists of questions on brand images, fashion leadership, and merchandise assortment. The subjects were to evaluate their brand images and rated on 5 point Likert-type scales of 29 adjectives. The fashion leadership of these brands was evaluated by the degree of fashion trends adopted on 7 aspects including fashion images, silhouettes, fabrics, colors, design details, accessories, and item-coordinations. For the survey, both interview and the subjects were 66 manufacturers which have national brands or designer brands. Among 44 respondents, 30 respondents were designers and the rest of them were merchandiser or shop managers. The SPSS PC+ package was used to calculate frequency, T-test, and cluster analysis. The results from survey of manufacturers targeting middle-aged women or older women are as follow: 1) The brand imges which they pursue are prestigious, practical, and elegance. 2) There were significant differences in brand images, and national brand manufacturers pursue stronger images in prestigious, chic, intelligent, competency, than designer brand manufacturers. 3) 40 brands were divided into two clusters. 36 brands were included in one cluster, and only 4 brand were belong to the other cluster. In this market, the image of feminity was grouped with the image of prestigious, chic, intelligent, competency. 4) In product planning, the adption level of fashion trends in 7 aspects was generally at medium level, but fashion trends were more adopted in fabric, color, and item-coordination.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.567-581
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to provide the basic data for the development of make-up color application system, based of Korean's skin tone and the preference in make-up color to enhance the effectiveness of the education of beauty in universities. The research was conducted by the previous studies, the analyses of sale's rate of hue-cosmetics, the analytic experiment of color of cosmetics by using Spectrum Color Analyzer and other experimental researches. This research, based on the results of three preliminary researches, shows the result of evaluation from perceivers which has been come out from the experiment of having one model in her twenties being changed with twenty-two different conditions of make-up. Here follows the result of the research. Firstly, there was difference on perceiving images in terms of the gender of perceivers and especially male-group tend to have clearly perceived the gap between elegance-greyish purple, orange-natural, red-classic on monochrome make-up and contrast make-up. Secondly, in terms of lip-colors, salmon pink and pink was regarded positively to both female and male subjects and to male subjects, greyish purple was thought to be better on darker skin-tone and to female subjects, better on lighter skin-tone. Thirdly, on image make-up, romantic gives intelligent image regardless of skin-tone and gender, especially gives more positive looks to male subjects. Natural and classic elements were perceived more positively on darker skin-tone and had bigger perceiving gap in female subjects. Fourthly, in preference rate, male subjects normally preferred the look with make-up than female subjects did and salmon pink and pink lip color was preferred on the darker skin-tone.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2006

With the change of social paradigm, the number of child care facilities is increasing and, accordingly, demand for sportswear for preschool children is also growing. Considering this trend, the present study purposed to subdivide the preschooler' sportswear market, which is currently using uniform design, and diversify the images of preschoolers' sportswear utilizing information on preschoolers' sportswear market, to produce high-quality sportswear of reasonable price, and to induce the development of various materials and designs. The results of this study are as follows. First, according to the result of paired t-test on the current image of preschoolers' sportswear and its future image to be promoted, among 22 items of sportswear image, the scores of comfortable and active images were highest. According to the results of factor analysis, five factors were identified, and kindergarten directors gave the highest score to plain image for preschoolers' sportswear and the lowest score to elegance image. This suggests that there should be active and diverse approaches to sportswear design. When the mean score of factors was compared among preschoolers' sportswear image to be promoted in the future, high-class elegant image got the highest score and was followed by functional image. In addition, lively and neat image got the lowest score. Second, when we analyzed the correlations between the five factors of image identified through factor analysis and three groups formed through cluster analysis in order to classify buyers based on the current images of preschoolers' sportswear and future images to be promoted, kindergarten directors were found to emphasize functional image currently in selecting sportswear for their children but to promote elegant image for future sportswear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.910
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• pp.1329-1340
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to survey about the images of the sexy clothes that young women sympathize in modern society, that is, to make a research into the cognitive dimensions of 'Sexy image' and the constructive peculiarity of clothing. The researches into dimension of image by sexy clothing make that female mainly consist of in their twenties during May to October in 2003. The independent variables were: 1) The physical beauty dimension, 2) The negative estimate dimension, 3) The characteristic devaluation dimension,4) The elegance/ high grade dimension,5) The freshness/ beauty dimension,6) The sex appeal/ exposure dimension. Judging from each characteristic of costume in classified by articles, that is, colors, texture, shapes, details, and others-phenomenon of outerization of under clothing, print. We can know the clothes showing up our nice figures are the sleeveless design tied with strap, soft texture as silk chiffon and the colors that are not strong. And there were no embarrassed, ugly and pitiful clothing. Expressing sexy beauty by clothing is the result that the wearer produces intentionally by compounding design factors, it's the ideal when the observer's reaction and the wearer's intention correspond. Therefore, it will be helpful in expressing ideally if the subject, what kinds of sexy beauty the compounding design factors express, is studied carefully. Also it is expected to be used in grasping modem consumers' desires that want to look sexy, finding out how to express, dealing with the consumers' desires correctly, and the reference materials of the planning goods, sales promotion, and selecting of a medium of advertisement according to the consumers' desires.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.