• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.5-17
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• 1999

This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1291-1304
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• 2010

This study examined that the black dress is the one of having aesthetic value as well as symbolism while delivering specific image, from the perspective of color, which is essential element in forming design of the Stage Costume. This study carried out the theoretical research of centering on the literature consideration and the empirical research of centering on a case side by side. It analyzed the works and design based on the clothing, which had been performed in Korea with a revival version of Musical 'Chicago'. Aesthetic characteristics in more than two are being shown in one dress. If so, the following are the results that considered on aesthetics characteristics in black, which were shown in Stage Costume of Musical 'Chicago', which is increasing the theme consciousness through Stage Costume, which is simple and sexy black. First, as emotion of coming to stay in agony and sadness on the basic fact called death, the Stage Costume in black led to being shown sorrow of implying death, fear and murder. Second, the dignity, which corresponds to noble beauty in the aesthetic category, expresses dignity and elegance with flat material in black, and is revealed the aspect of expressing fashion, which emphasized spirit rather than body. Third, as the aesthetic characteristic of causing sexual desire, the sensuality was shown, which has the aspect of being expressed through exposure, concealment and emphasis. Fourth, it was expressed with androgyny, which evokes androgynous image. Fifth, black in Musical 'Chicago' formed the whole mood with a sense of weight by arranging the whole feeling with color in similar tone, thereby having been indicated the harmony of being formed with theme, which is aimed to be indicated in drama.

• Plant Resources
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.206-209
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Mentha arvensis Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Mentha arvensis Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in headache and stress. It is also good as a aphtha and in treating cold. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Mentha arvensis Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Mentha arvensis Herba has an efficiency in removing aphtha and in treating cold. So it is considered that Mentha arvensis Herba can be applied effectively to headache and stress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.397-415
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.79-86
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• 2014

Furniture can be a product of design and is considered a form of a decorative art. Architectural works are often perceived as cultural symbols and as works of art. Korean traditional architectural form and wooden furniture were improved by adding up an organic coordination in the interior space. Furniture adds beauty of life by being coordinated with the interior space with its particular characteristic in the form of architectural structure. Architecture and furniture are also being improved in a more natural and diverse way. Therefore, in this research, from the choice of the location, Korean traditional architecture is considered to be coordinated with the nature, and the technical skill is lessened to express its beauty. There is a presence of elegance yet robust combination of simplicity and beauty. In addition, the traditional architecture and wooden furniture are completely expressed structurally with coordination of the outstanding design and solid structure according to the thrifty living in the Confucian ideas which influenced the Korean traditional society. The representative of Korean traditional architecture, Baeheulrim pillar, has worked as motive because of its visual comfort caused by optical illusion and formative elements. The small portable dining table (Soban) which reflects the characteristic of Korean unique tradition and the sensitivity of Koreans has been reinterpreted through the motive in this research. As a result, it has shown the possibility as the design element to change the aesthetic structure. In the modern society, cultural identity plays a vital role. Therefore, this research can be used as reference for the new concept of furniture - making. It could be a combination of modern people, lifestyle and living space by creating the Korean image suitable for the modern society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.29-44
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• 2006

This study was aimed at giving help to the people intending to change hair fashion feeling for making their own hair style design and also providing the academic guide line to the cosmetic circles for developing new hair design and promoting sales by producing hair styles following the results from the statistical analysis based on the theoretical study on the face contour groups & hair fashion feeling groups. The researching methods were composed of following 3 steps ; prior theoretical research, statistical analysis, and hair style production. At first, the prior theoretical research was accomplished by analysis of literatures, magazines and internet sites about face contour, total & hair fashion feelings, hair style productions. Second, the prior statistical analysis were done about hairstyle images & their charateristics based on fashion feelings, and characteristics of fashion feeling group. And the third, hair style productions were done coordinated by face contours(oval, circle, long, square, reverse triangle) and hair fashion feelings(natural, sexy, sophisticate, ethnic, romantic pretty, elegance, sporty, avant garde) following the statistical results. But owing to the limitations to change hair length and color, these changes are modified by wigs and photoshop 7.0 program. So we could know there was no confirmed hair fashion feeling of one's best, but one could change one's hair fashion feeling and express one's beauty if one could adjust one's hair styles properly to one's face contour. This study would be very helpful to the people trying to change their own hair fashion feeling and be useful to the cosmetic circles for developing new design and promoting sales by comprehending hair design market and also be valuable to develop the methodology of 3 step research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.576-584
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to define the detailed factors related to expressing the aesthetic image of various baggy pants with changes to the hip circumference and crotch length ease. For this, detailed factors expressing the aesthetic image of baggy pants were deduced, and the aesthetic image and mutual influence according to the change in the hip circumference and crotch length ease were analyzed. Nine baggy pants with different levels of hip circumference and crotch length ease were produced as experimental pants. The image of each pair of experimental baggy pants was evaluated based on pictures taken of the pants worn by a woman in her 20s with a standard body figure. The image assessment team was composed of 105 clothing majors. The research results are as follows. Three aesthetic image factors of baggy pants were extracted: attractiveness, elegance and activity. When there was not much ease in the hip circumference and crotch length of the baggy pants, it appeared to look more attractive, younger and fashionable. A dignified and feminine image was perceived more when there was less ease in the hip circumference regardless of the crotch length. Because there was less ease in the hip circumference and crotch length, it appeared to be more comfortable, active and soft. These research results show that baggy pants with too much ease in the hip circumference or crotch length are perceived to be less attractive and actually as inactive. As seen here, there is a difference in the aesthetic image according to the change in the hip circumference and crotch length of the baggy pants; therefore, baggy pants which suits a person's own body type can be chosen to enhance the preferred aesthetic image of individuals.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.87-98
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to investigate the difference on c1othing image evaluation in the ratings between men and women. For this study, pilot test was conducted to 50 clothing majored university students to explore the stimulus of 'cute', 'casual', 'sexy', 'elegant', 'intelligent', 'formal', 'romantic', 'individual', 'refined' for the 9 each image styles from the 32 spring wears in fashion magazine $\ulcorner$FARBE$\lrcorner$(March. 2000). On the basis of the preliminary survey, the question items explored the 15 pairs of polar adjectives as seven-point Likert Scale. The main survey was preceded 94 female and 111 man of university students from March 13 to 24 in 2000, twice for 7-days interval. There were significant differences between the two sexes for each style image ratings. It was found that the female was recorded mote ordinary, stable. refined. superior, plain, like than the male for intelligent style. Meanwhile, the intelligent style was evaluated well on in years by female, but male young. The female tended that elegance style was more stable, warm and less young than the male. The cute style was evaluated more light, tender, feminine, young by the female than the male, find the female looked warm while the male cool. The formal style was more stable, unrefined. solid, unfamiliar dislike, old by the female than the male. The casual style was revealed plain and warm by the female while splendor and cool by the male, the female more active, tender, familiar than the male and individual, attractive and poor quality than the female. The sexy style was evaluated more active, good appearance, young than the female, tender than the male and the female dislike a bit while the male like. The female evaluated the refined style for more stable. refined. superior good appearance and nature than the male. The romantic style was evacuated more like, refined, superior, good appearance nature and familiar by the male, but the female a bit unfamiliar. The individual style was revealed that the female evaluated cool and a bit dislike while the male warm and like, and the male more refined, feminine, young than female.

• Archives of design research
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• v.9
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• pp.501-510
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• 1994

Discovered as designer of own ski loths by American potographer Toni Frissell, !n 1947; designed ski wear for Lord '||'&'||' Taylor store in New York follewing year. He opened a shop on Capri in 1949 and in 1950 he founded "Emilio", his couture house. His fortune was simple silk jersey chemises and very strong prints using bold colour in abstract patterns. A pucci print was immediately recognizable and, although often based on medieval heraldic banners of the sort waved at the "Siena Palio", so utterly of the moment that it could be taken as a classic symbol of the late 1950s and early 1960s. He was a brilliant colourist and his colours became the colours of the decade: hot pink, lime blue, purple. He seemed able to capture the sun and fun of Italy in his print and, along with Galitzine, he can take the credit for creating the concept of relaxed, informal elegance in Italian faslion.ian faslion.