• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.223-230
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• 1999

Dressmaking which is defined as the process of changing two-dimensional cloth into three-dime-nsional clothes needs a lot of joining parts. Particularly sleeve needs a more curved surface than other joining parts owing to shape of the top of arms. Easing is used to control the fullness along the seam-line to create the fullness curved shape of the sleeves and it plays an important role in increasing three-dimensional constru-ction power. unfortunately sufficient data regarding effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve are not available. Therefore the author tried to investigate the effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing contraction made by different angles on the sleeve cap curve line previous work were examined and the effective easing conditions according to the variation of angles were determined. This study contains the following objectives. Firstly to obtain the easing contraction ratio in sleeve according to the above easing conditions. Secondly to investigate the three-dimensional construction power or sleeve by the factors of easing contraction. Thirdly to determine for each sleeve the effective easing conditions on the basis of the calcuative easing contraction ratio in the sleeve patterns by cap heights.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1107-1115
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• 1996

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing condition (seam line; wp, wf, 45$^{\circ}$ bias, stitch density; 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2 mm), 4 stitch/cm (2.5 mm), thread; sp 60$^{\circ}$s/2, sp 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 50$^{\circ}$s/3)) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The correlations of the easing and sewing conditions were by SPSS PC), and visual test was done by enlarged photo. The results obstained were as follows:. 1. The easing contraction ratio is increased in proportion to the low of stitch density. 2. The easing contraction ratio of wp, 45$^{\circ}$ bias is correlated with stitch density, and that of wf be with stitch density, elongation & weight. 3. The easing contraction ratio of 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm) is correlated with flexible rigidity, and that of 4 stitch/ cm (2.5 mm) be with flexible rigidity and crease-resistance. 4. As a results of SPSS PC+ statistics, the easing contraction ratio is statistically correlated to the seam line, stitch density, upper thread tension, and fabric characteristics. 5. As a results of visual test by the enlarged photo, the limit of stitch density for easing contraction was 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.353-360
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• 1999

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights(A ; a,h$\times$5,/6) B: A, H/4 +4cm C:A.H/3 D: A.H/ 4+3cm E:AH/4+2cm, F: A,H/4+1cm, G: A,H/4, H:A,H/6, I:A,H/8) and the efects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot: sewing condition-lockstitch industrial machine stitch density(N1.0 ; 38stitches/3cm N1.5: 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/ 3cm) The results obtained were as follows; 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done according to the angle balance (front; $\alpha$-$\beta$ back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') between the angle (front ;$\alpha$, $\beta$, back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.41-48
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• 1998

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing conditions (eased seam angle; 0$^{\circ}$ 20$^{\circ}$ 30$^{\circ}$ 45$^{\circ}$ 60$^{\circ}$ 70$^{\circ}$ 90$^{\circ}$, stitch density; 38 stitches/3 cm(N1.0), 26 stitches/ 3 cm(N1.5), 19 stitches/3 cm(N2.0), 14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), 12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), thread; sp 60' s/2) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The results abstained were as follows: 1. The lower the stitch density , the higher the easing contraction ratio. 2. The easing contraction ratio at 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$ were lower than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$, 70$^{\circ}$). 3. As the results of visual test, the maximum easing conditions were Fl -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$-12 stitches/3 cm(N3.0), 60$^{\circ}$. 70$^{\circ}$. 90$^{\circ}$-14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), F2 -0$^{\circ}$. 20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/ 3 cm(N2.0), 45$^{\circ}$ -14 stitches/3 cm(N2.5), and F3 -0$^{\circ}$.20$^{\circ}$.30$^{\circ}$.45$^{\circ}$.60$^{\circ}$.70$^{\circ}$.90$^{\circ}$-19 stitches/3 cm (N2.0). 4. Approximately easing contraction ratio was obtained as 2.0% (N1.0)~ 10.2% (N3.0) in F1, 6.7% (N1.0)~ 15.7% (N2.0) in F2, and 5.2% (N1.0)~ 12.1% (N2.0) in F3, according to different angles on the sleeve cap curve line. 5. As a resets of SPSS PC) statistics analysis, it confirmed the relations which were observed between easing contration ratio and stitch density, and easing contraction ratio was correlated with bending properties.

• Economic Analysis
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.132-176
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• 2019

We use a time-varying parameter vector auto regression (TVP-VAR) model to understand the impact of U.S. monetary policy normalization on Korean financial markets and capital accounts. The U.S. monetary policy is represented by the federal funds rate, term premium and credit spread. During the U.S. monetary contraction period of 2004 to 2006, changes in the federal funds rate presented negative pressure on Korean financial markets. The changes in federal funds rate also led to a simultaneous contraction in inward and outward capital flows. However, the effects of a federal funds rate shock has been reduced since 2015. On the other hand, the effects of U.S. term premiums is getting stronger after the period of quantitative easing (QE). The influence of the U.S. credit spread also significantly increased after the global financial crisis. Simulation results show that a rise in the U.S. credit spread, which can be triggered by a contractionary monetary policy, can pose a larger adverse impact on the Korean economy than a rise in the federal funds rate itself. As for capital flows, a U.S. monetary policy contraction causes an outflow of foreign investment, but the repatriation of overseas investment by Korean residents can offset this outflow.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.365-381
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• 2016

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of $30^{\circ}$ and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm, $30^{\circ}$ and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.