• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.118-130
• /
• 2011

In this study, hydrophilic polyurethane (PU) was synthesized by one shot process to get good non-swelling effect and to keep high breathability using reactive silicone oil of mono terminal and bi-terminal types. We also blended non reactive silicone oil with pure hydrophilic PU to compare non-swelling effect and breathability with hydrophilic PU synthesized by the two types of reactive silicone oils. The hydrophilic films were analyzed by nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope (SEM), Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy, X-ray photo electron (XPS) spectroscopy, energy dispersive spectrometry (EDS), breathability, waterproofness, tensile strength, contact angle and swelling effect. The results showed that the film made by hydrophilic PU which was synthesized with mono terminal type silicone oil provided good non-swelling effect and acceptable moisture permeability due to the modified surface properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.292-302
• /
• 2013

Cotton fabrics treated with hybrid materials were developed and prepared. A halogen-free flame retardant and an aromatic amide were blended and applied to cotton fabrics. Thermal and physical properties of the treated cotton fabrics were investigated. The surface of the pure and coated cotton fabrics was characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The elemental composition of the coated surface of the cotton fabric was measured using X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and compared with that of pure cotton fabric. After being solved in N,N-dimethylacetamide, m-aramid and triphenylphosphine oxide (TPP) were applied to cotton fabrics through a dip-pad-coagulation process. The treated cotton fabrics with recycled m-aramid/TPP resulted in increased limited oxygen index values and thermal resistance.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.43 no.5 s.207
• /
• pp.249-265
• /
• 2005

Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers' figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.957-969
• /
• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.71-81
• /
• 1996

Direct Sky Blue-5B is an Azo dye known as general for staining of textile and leather, etc., and as materials which are difficult to be biodegraded in nature. The bacterium strain which could degrade direct Sky Blue-5B was isolated from activated sludge of dyeing factory and identified as Proteus sp. by experiment on morphological, cultural and biochemical characteristics, and so named Proteus sp. ST-1. The optimum condition of the strain for degradation of Sky Blue-5B were at about 35$^{\circ}C$ and PH 7~8. The strain had been capable of degradation with organic nitrogen effectively and had completely degraded 200mg/1 of the dye within 12hrs at 37$^{\circ}C$. The enzyme system related to degradation of Azo dye may be intracellular, and so degraded the dye after absorption into cell. The degradation products of Sky Blue-5B by Proton sp. 57-1 were analyzed by Gas Chromatography /Mass Spectrometry and Spectrophotomer, from this observation, it may be infered that the strain degraded the dye directly without any mediate.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.636-642
• /
• 1989

In this paper, 3-dimensional fracture phenomena in the local area near the notch tip between the surface and the center of a composite bar which is consisted of two different materials were investigated by using embedded dyeing grids with the pitch of 50.8.mu. It was confirmed that the maximum strain near the notch tip occurred not at the notch front but at the curvature beginning point of the notch which is in the interior of z/W = 0.3 - 0.35 from the surface and a notch was initiated from that point. And that the strain near the notch front between the center and z/W = 0.65 - 0.7 toward the surface was in a state of compression.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.33 no.4
• /
• pp.288-301
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to verify the degree of visibility of FOLED (fiber optic light-emitting diode) materials applied to safety-enhancing clothes of micro-mobility users during the day and night by conducting an empirical test targeting 50 people in their teens, 20's, 30's, 40's, and 50's or older. First, the results of the visibility test at 10 m-intervals from 10 to 70 m based on the clothes sample showed that the light detection of FOLED material was very good without daytime or night-time distinction. Second, the results of directional sign detection of FOLED were confirmed to be very high without any daytime or night. Third, the results of identifying a pictogram design showed that the distance was shorter than that of light detection or directional indication. However, the FOLED pictogram design could be confirmed at a distance of 50 m or less. Therefore, if a clothes product using FOLED material is worn and micro-mobility is used, the experimental results indicate that safety will be sufficiently secured due to the excellent visibility.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.299-320
• /
• 2024

Traditional culture contributes to the diversification of modern fashion design and the inheritance of local cultural identity. This study aims to identify the characteristics of traditional handicrafts reflected in modern fashion design in India. For this purpose, it focused on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar, who are currently leading the Indian fashion design field. The methodology involved conducting literature research and analyzing case studies. In the literature, the techniques of Indian traditional crafts such as embroidery, dyeing, and weaving were examined and five design elements of traditional crafts were defined. Through content analysis of 30 images from the three designers' Instagram accounts, the design characteristics of traditional handicrafts expressed in contemporary Indian fashion design were derived: cultural inheritance using traditional Indian clothing items, traditional materials and practices applied to contemporary clothing, craftsmanship that artistically improves complex details using embroidery techniques, various combinations based on the traditional meaning of colors, and narrative expression using patterns containing India's cultural identity. Incorporating these traditional handicrafts into fashion design, closely linked to everyday life, aids in conveying and enhancing their significance. The cases demonstrate the successful integration of conservation into contemporary fashion design. This study sheds light on the application of traditional culture in modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.5 no.1 s.12
• /
• pp.51-55
• /
• 2007

These days, hair design is recognized as a kind of molding arts which peform expression skill to create personal self as well as practical skill. Recently, the efforts to express hair design sublimating it to art works have continued. For these reasons, this study had purposes as follows; First, it developed creative and original design producing works to shape the flower image that was an important material of hair design. Second, it presented the possibility to express the field of hair design with art. In the flow of age, nature has provided design with unlimited creative motive. Flowers, among various materials, show the nature's change, combination and order and impose diverse symbolic meanings. Therefore, flowers are good materials to express the works. Through the process of decolorizing and dyeing with hair, five works of nature's fragrance, hope, reed flowers, windflower, magnolia blossom had been produced. The results of the process were as follows; First, the transformation of shape through the simple process taking the image of shaping flower as subject matter could be a motive of new hair design art. Second, if the various images of flowers were expressed as hair art with three-dimensional shape, it could be works with value of beauty. Through the process of this study, it was proved that nature could be endless subject matter for art. Therefore, with continuous studies, it can be motive of developing designs in producing work activities of many hair designers. In addition, academic development will be achieved through wide and diverse studies.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
• /
• v.29 no.2
• /
• pp.138-145
• /
• 2010

Curcuma longa L. (turmeric) is an important medicinal plant that has been historically used in herbal medicine and in the health food throughout Asia etc. Recently, the demands on rhizome of turmeric are increasing greatly by well-being boom, but there is not enough to meet the demands. To fulfill increasing demands, cultivation system strategies using the organic fertilizers are required to produce a greater amount of rhizome with good quality and yield. A field experiment was conducted to determine the effect of composts, NPK fertilizer(control, F), NPK + swine manure(SM) and NPK + fermentation manure from the wasted oriental medicine materials(OMWM), on rhizome yield and the content of bioactive components for quality. Our results showed that two compost applications can increase both rhizomes(24.1-25.9%) and curcumin(21.7-41.0%) yields, respectively, compared to F control. The content of amino acids increased significantly by SM and OMWM treatments. SM and OMWM application also increased the total phenol yields 7.8 and 8.7 g/10a compared with control 6.3 g/10a, the flavonoid yields 6.3 and 7.3 g/10a compared with control 5.3 g/10a, and also antioxidant activity 21.7 and 41%, respectively, as compared to the control. Especially, OMWM was more effective in total rhizomes yields and bioactivities and in the biosynthesis of curcumin and bioactive components than SM treatments, but the biological pathway was not clear, still. This experiment suggests that curcumin or bioactive components affected by adding SM and OMWM could increase the yields and quality of turmeric.