• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.97-104
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• 2005

In this research, the fit of basic dresses was examined, by analyzing and comparing the satisfaction of fitness of basic dresses made by the draping method on a custom-made replica body form and that of a basic dress made by the flat pattern method. Basis dresses were produced by the draping method for each 52 subjects using custom-made body forms, and another kind basic dresses for each subjects were produced by the flat pattern method using measurements of body sizes. Both basic dresses received high scores for the satisfaction of fit, but the basic dresses produced by draping method received higher scores. Thus it is expected to produce a more successful fit by draping a basic dress on a custom-made body form. Future research using more subjects might confirm these results. A more concrete analysis through using additional satisfaction tests could be conducted. For example, each subject might also serve as an evaluator to rate her satisfaction of fit wearing each of the two custom-made dresses. Finally, examining various body forms is suggested.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.892-907
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.346-360
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• 2021

Universities have recently introduced problem-based learning (PBL) to various subjects to enhance problem-solving skills (including self-directed learning and small-group learning) required in industry. The PBL module was applied to the personal production process in a draping class. A study was based on a questionnaire after conducting two PBL modules with a group of students. Each PBL module included 'design analysis', 'presentation of flat sketch and draping plan', 'discussion of the plan', 'evaluation of the draping result and correcting the problem', and 'final evaluation of the completed project'. Results showed that satisfaction with the PBL method and its activities was higher than satisfaction with existing teaching methods. In particular, among the various components, the 'design analysis' and 'the presentation step of flat sketch and draping plan' stages were more helpful to students compared to small-group discussion. Moreover, the effects of PBL were observed through student reflection essays, in which students suggested that PBL was very effective in enhancing problem-solving through self-directed and small-group learning. Despite the overall satisfaction with PBL, students expressed some minor difficulties associated with awkwardness with a novel learning method, lack of diverse perspectives among each group, and poor communication skills. Therefore, the study shows that PBL is highly likely to be useful to students when they are solving pattern drafting problems and making samples through self-directed learning and small-group learning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.7
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• pp.770-777
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• 2003

This paper proposes a geometrical method for generating and draping the skirt 3D models. The method constructs a 3D basic skirt model using a truncated elliptical cone and generates the various skirt 3D models by controlling the elliptical cone. The B-Spline approximates the 3D drapes which change variously according to the angles and the textiles of the skirts. The mapping sources consist of the textile textures and the skirt 2D model. The 2D models are obtained by mapping the 3D skirt models to the 2D plane. The mapping sources allow us to map the textiles to the 3D skirts. We make the real skirts for the 6 kinds of angles and textiles. and investigate the data of their drape appearances. The investigated data are applied to the virtual skirts. Appearances of the virtual skirts are similar to those of the real.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.

• Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
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• 2001.06d
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• pp.61-64
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• 2001

This paper proposes an automatic method for generating and 3D draping the skirt 3D models. The method constructs a 3D basic model of the skirts using elliptic cylinder and generates the various skirt 3D models by controlling the ellipses of the basic model. B-Spline approximates the wrinkles around the ellipse for the various 3D draping changing according to designs and textiles. We make some real skirts and investigate appearances for their drapes. This paper simulates their appearances and obtains good results. Furthermore, adaptation of the skirt 3D model to a personal character implements realistic coordination of the various skirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Archives of Craniofacial Surgery
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.29-30
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• 2015

In cleft palate surgery, the environment is especially critical when suturing. Encum-bered, obstructive space in the environment can hinder a suture while using the Dingman mouth gag. We introduced a novel but simple draping technique. A simple hand towel is placed over the gag. A hole is cut out in the middle according to each patient's mouth. After making the hole, the hand towel is soaked in water and gently squeezed. Then the towel is properly placed over the Dingman mouth gag. Dripping water on the hand towel during the suture helps keep it in place. Using this draping technique, we cut 14 minutes of operation time compared to the average operation time of the past 2 years. There were several disadvantages in previous draping method. First, long suture material may easily get caught. Second, the operation field can easily be contaminated. Third, focusing on the operation becomes difficult due to the obstruction. This draping technique can compensate for the disadvantages of the previous Dingman mouth gag.