• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.353-359
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the jacket pattern drafting method for Korean middle-aged women. The study was composed as follows : 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis : Two hundreds and forty four middle-aged women between the ages of forty five and fifty nine were measured on 52 items. 2. Development of new jacket pattern drafting method : Measurement items necessary to draft new jacket pattern were back waist length, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, back interscye breadth, front interscye breadth, neck base girth, nipple length, nipple to nipple breadth, 1/2 posterior shoulder length and sleeve length. Basic jackets constructed from the experimental patterns were examined through the fitting test. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method : The sensory evaluations for appearance and comfort were applied to evaluate the new jacket pattern by comparing it with one of the conventional jacket patterns (Lee Hyung-Suk's). According to the result of sensory evaluation, the new jacket pattern was more positive.

• Korean Journal of Computational Design and Engineering
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 1996

Existing CAD systems do not provide advanced functions for automatic checking design and drafting errors in mechanical drawings. If the knowledge of checking in mechanical ddrsfting can be implemented into computers, CAD systems could automatically check for design and drafting errors. This paper describes a method for systematic checking of dimension errors. such as deficiency and/or redundancy of dimension input-errors in dimension figures and symbols, etc. The logic for finding dimensional errors is written by using a proccedural language. A geometric model and a topological-graph model are used in this method. Checking for deficiency and redundancy of dimensions is based upon graph Theory.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.4 s.206
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• pp.97-110
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• 2005

The need for children's formal wear is growing as parents take their children into formal occasions more often than before. Yet there are some problems to be solved in order to generalize about children's formal wear such as high price and the development of patterns for better fit and design. Mothers of boys were surveyed to find out the needs, complaints, and required improvements of boy's formal wear. Pattern designers of children's formal wear brands were interviewed to determine the size specifications, pattern drafting methods and design features of each brand. Based on these results, several pattern drafting methods were selected. Jackets and pants for 9-year-olds were made by each pattern drafting method using the us standard size. They were compared through wearing test to improve the fit. As a result, pattern drafting methods for children's tailored suits and two formal jackets were suggested.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.59-79
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.

• Design & Manufacturing
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.19-23
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• 2019

In the mold industry, CAM software has been introduced to solve the impossible or time-consuming part of the mold industry because the increase in labor costs, the drop in mold price, and the short delivery time are tasks to be solved not only in the manufacturing industry but also in the mold industry as a whole. In order to reduce the processing time and improve the surface roughness, we have been conducting various researches for efficient machining. This study was carried out to compare the ball end mill and radius end mill tools with the Power mill software and NC brain software under the same conditions and to find out the most efficient method of machining the smooth drafting surface and improving the surface roughness. (1) By machining the smooth drafting surface using radius end mill, the machining time is 23.7% faster than when using ball end mill. (2) Surface roughness when machined with radius end mill is smoother than when using ball end mill. Based on these results, it can not be applied to all shapes, but if it is a relatively wide and simple gradient shape, the raster machining method using radius end mill can be more effective in terms of delivery and quality than machining with ball end mill.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.632-656
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• 2024

This study presents a pattern drafting method for designing a slim-fit blouse for women in their twenties with a D cup bra size and various bust sizes within the standard body type range using the 3D virtual clothing system. Three participants were scanned using a body scanner, and three similar princess blouse patterns were selected. A total of nine virtual blouses were produced, with three sets made for each participant. In the initial evaluations, Pattern C received the highest score. The second pattern was designed by mending the flaws in Pattern C. However, in the eases of the front and back busts, back width and back waist were still insufficient and sleeve length was short. In the similarity evaluation between virtual and real blouses, the overall appearance was similar. Most of the corrected elements received significantly higher ratings in the third real blouse. However, the ease of the rear bust area was slightly large. In general, when drafting blouse patterns for women with large bust sizes, it is essential to increase the ease in the front bust, reduce the ease in the back bust, enlarge the waist dart, and decrease the armhole depth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.