• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.741-756
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• 2017

The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant's and children's clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants' and Children's designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children's Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ for infants' and children's clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to analysis of design preference according to age of consumers in order to obtain basic informations which are necessary for the development of designs that can satisfy the needs and desire of Chinese consumers. The style, color, fabric pattern, fabric, image, and shape of clothing were used for design preference variations. The study was implemented by surveying 280 females living in Beijing, China. The results were as follows: 1) There were significant differences in the preference of style of outdoor clothes according to age. Chinese women in the age of twenties and fifties prefer to wear casual clothes. Preference ratio was more than 60% 2) There were significant differences in the preference of color of spring and summer clothes, but there was no difference in the preference of color of autumn and winter clothes. 3) There was a difference in the preference of fabric pattern of outdoor clothes. Generally Chinese women showed 50% of preference for the no patterned outdoor clothes. 4) There were no differences in the preference of fabric materials. Preferred material for spring and summer was cotton fabrics, and that for autumn and winter was woolen fabrics. 5) In the research of the preferred image of outdoor clothes, generally Chinese women showed the most preference for elegance style. Chines women who are in the age of thirties to forties preferred feminine style. However, Chinese women who are in the age of fifties like to choose simple style. 6) There was a significant difference in the preference of length of jacket and skirt, and generally Chinese women preferred to wear medium length of jacket and skirt. There was no difference in the preference of design of collar and shape of pants. However most Chinese women showed preference for tailored collar and straight shaped pants.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.71-88
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• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.131-146
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.32-45
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• 2016

Outdoor wear, which is typically worn for outdoor activities, has become a style that is worn on a daily basis, much like ordinary clothes, through recent megatrends. There are new approaches to outdoor wear with high-fashion brands and designers recently taking part in the trend. This indicates that outdoor wear has already reached high-fashion, no longer making it just a megatrend or daily fashion. Therefore this study aims to find new features of outdoor looks and designs, through the latest women's ready-to-wear collections from 2014 to 2015. The study will focus on mega collections, which have shown many new approaches, and searches to change and development the present day outdoor look design, by using the word 'outdoor look' which is explained as a 'style' in a broad sense, and using it a general term of 'clothes'. High fashion brands have pursued changing their styles by mixing their designs with outdoor wear's variety, functionality and details; attempting new approaches and challenges. Due to these updated changes, the outdoor look is thriving and becoming part of high fashion. Looking forward to future new approaches and the development of the outdoor look will help catapult this type of 'style' into a new category of modern fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.147-165
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop design of maternity dress combined with nursing. Six maternity wears combined with nursing were developed through the literature, preceding studies, and web sites those were about pregnancy, breast feeding, a maternity wear, and a nursing wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In order to develop clothes of diverse styles and designs, an after five dress, a poncho style blouse, wrap culotte as well as a skirt suit, a pants suit, an one-piece dress were designed. 2. It was established to make more amounts of front ease than those of back ease and to supplement a frontal hanging portion in consideration of breast development and abdominal prominence. 3. In order to make use of a maternity wear after a birth, stretch fabric was used for an abdominal part or whole clothes. Also an empire line and pleats, a poncho style, a shirts blouse, and inserting a string were used for it. 4. the fabrics of cotton, mixed cotton, polyester were used because pregnant women and nursing mothers perspires more than others do. 5. The horizontal, vertical, diagonal slits for a breast feeding were made. The storm flap of a trench coat, a machine pleated fabric, a poncho, a bolero style were used for a nursing cover.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.337-348
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• 2002

Based upon literature survey and questionnaire survey, this research tries to develop four new Cleanroom Garment in semiconductor industrial environment. The designs emphasize to minimize workers disconmfort so that they can not only cover human body fully but also reduce dust as much as possible during work hour in clean room. The new designs characteristics and results from both function test and dust emission test are as follows: 1. In order to reduce dust-emission, we develop new designs with hood, kimono sleeve, and back zipper. The designs with hood face positive test results in term of motion suitability and dust-omission. The design with seam in front, in particular, is effective to control dust-emission. 2. For the purpose of reducing dust-emission, we also emphasize to minimize ease of dust-proof wear, with reference to previous research and clothing experiment. The experiment participants report that the new wears are not so comfortable as existing ones, but they accept the new wears positive as effective in reducing dust-emission owing to reduced ease of Cleanroom Garment and sleeves. 3. A1so to reduce dust-emission in inner wear, we put inner wear in both Cleanroom Garments and inner wear, resulting to remove discomfort of wearers when changing clothes and of tight waist due to inner-trousers. 4. We develop new designs with elastic bands in both waist through the side lines and with velcro only at the back side. To remove twist in front contributes to reduce emission arising out of friction, also to free the appearance minding woman workers from worrying about exposed stomach. The new designs need to be accepted as a valuable alternative of Cleanroom Garment, in that they are highly effective to reduce dust-emission, which is the most important factor in the wear, in spite of some drawbacks in terms of motion-suitability, ease and appearance as shown in wearing test.