• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.488-504
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• 2021

This article examined the historical evolution of changes in the democratization of fashion, identified its characteristics, and defined 'fashionocracy - fashion democracy'- by analyzing various phenomena in the global fashion industry. This research will expand the field of fashion research and spark academic debates about fashion democracy. The democratization of fashion can be summarized in five periods; birth, introduction, early growth, growth, and maturity. The characteristics of the democratization of fashion include individual autonomy, accessibility that many people can access and enjoy, and diversity. According to the principles of democracy- "of the people, for the people, by the people" - which are based on freedom and equality, we have achieved fashion of the people and for the people so far. Furthermore, social media has shifted the balance of power to influencers and bloggers; as such, the masses who have consumed and enjoyed fashion democratization are becoming producers and promoters by actively participating in the process of making fashion, creating a new era of fashion democracy (fashionocracy): - by the people. Ultimately, fashionocracy consists of the '6P's' ; people (active and productive consumers), planet (society and environmental sustainability), products (genderless, ageless, inclusive), price (reasonable), place (multi-channel distribution, virtual spaces), and promotion (horizontal).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.173-182
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• 2022

As consumption pattern and fashion communication become digitalized, fashion houses are being inherited by creative directors owing to their expanding role. While the roles and responsibilities of creative directors have been changing extensively along with the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, researches on creative directions have mostly focused on luxury brands. This study examined the creative direction of John Galliano for Maison Margiela, a conceptual brand to be maintained by a creative director. To analyze this, the authors established a creative direction analysis model constituting five elements: brand heritage, trend, democratization, brand status, and persona, drawing on the luxury brand architecture by Kapferer and Bastien. Thus, Galliano has maintained anonymity as a heritage of Maison Margiela, expanding the existing Replica lines, and introduced fashion shows focusing on current issues or social phenomena. As a democratization strategy, he directed the brand to associate with more popular brands or expanded diffusion lines to secure broader customer base, while demonstrating couturier-like showmanship in the media and establishing his own persona. His direction for Maison Margiela recreates and expands brand heritage by transforming the brand philosophy. Therefore the new creative direction communicates with the wider public and diversifies customer bases through democratization strategies, while building Galliano's own persona.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.25-37
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• 2005

This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.115-132
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• 2017

This study recognizes the importance of the social network platform as a new fashion media, and analyzes the significance of various digital fashion images, based on the 'Aura' theory of Walter Benjamin. The concept of "Disappearance of Artistic Aura" can be summarized into three discussions: 1) the change in the way of artistic perception, which is changes in value from worship to exhibition. 2) the change in the way of artistic acceptance, from personal to mass. 3) the emergence of new artistic concepts such as camera and film. By reviewing characteristics of the $21^{st}$ digital replication era, the study tried to discover and evaluate the expanded significance of the 'Aura' represented on digital fashion images, which are infinitely generated, modified, reproduced, transmitted, and shared in social network environments. The 'Burberry Instagram' was chosen as the subject of the study. The study reviewed around 2,500 images, which were uploaded from February 2011 to July 2016, and selected 200 images deemed the most representative of Burberry, and categorized and analyzed by the extended concept of 'Aura'. The study results as follows: First, the 'Aura' in digital fashion image appearing on social network platforms signifies the expansion of product value in fashion, and it also represents inherited traditions and modernization of images. Second, it also signifies the democratization and globalization of fashion through the open replication and sharing as well as the interaction of criticism and acceptance. Third, it signifies the personalized taste and fashion as everyday lifestyle, through personalized services, securing playful space, and real-time updates.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.247-261
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• 1973

In the past, what we call "fashion" was monopolized by only a small highly privileged group of individuals. To-day, we know that fashion field has become progressive democratization of taste not only in clothing, but in all expressions of contemporary living, from automobiles to refrigerators. So, we can find out how wonderful it is that our recent fashionable history was changed so fast. Whatever highly characteristic costume may be in the former, the way people dress was the reflection of their contemporary lives as well as their political status, economics, cultures, arts religions, so that a history of fashion is a history of life. Now, that categorical silhouettes make an exclusion across centuries of past history into the world of aesthetics, particularizes following ; symbolic voluminous toga of Roman authority, the religious but gorgeous Byzantine tunic, extravagant vertical bell-skirt of the Renaissance, the romantic Rococo style, the elegant crinoline and the bustle of the Cul de Paris of the nineteenth. It came true that women was intoxicated ostentations and elegances, since they had on ornamently costume which bear some relationship to the more formal Co-stesy, till the beginning of the twentieth. As Jonney Ironside said, "Nowadays, those exessive ornamentations and cumbersome design hardly belong to a civilization run by machines and in a hurry". These were once a sign of wealth and class ; at the beginning of the twentieth it was disappearing step by step. What is the reason\ulcorner At the end of the nineteenth, the emancipation of women, the movement of the Art Nouveau and the opening of the ready-made, have influenced on modern style, directly or indirectly. Finally, democratically popular costume was caused by fighting against the masculine prejudice excluded them from activities.hem from activities.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2022

In the past 10 years, the luxury goods market growth has significantly outpaced other consumer goods categories. Its market value exceeded US $1.2 trillion globally in 2018. In response to this significant consumer demand, the product portfolio of luxury brands has been modified, as several products that previously were exclusive have now released lower-priced versions. This phenomenon is called new luxury. These new luxury products, however, have caused the democratization of the luxury that threatens the exclusivity of luxury brands. In this circumstance, luxury consumers are becoming disillusioned with the vulgarization of luxury goods and prefer exclusive luxury experiences. In order to keep pace with the changes in the luxury consumer needs and promote the brand image with a creative and luxurious connotation, luxury brands are increasingly associating with contemporary art through diverse channels. However, there is a lack of theoretical research investigating the main points to be considered when applying contemporary art to luxury brands and attempting effective brand communication. Therefore, this study aims to provide insights into the key issues for luxury brands when applying contemporary art for effective brand communication. An in-depth case study with the luxury fashion brand, Louis Vuitton, was carried out to better understand contemporary art applications and obtain analytical insights. Through the research, key insights were identified as follows: 1) setting a clear objective for art application based on an in-depth understanding for both the art and the luxury brand, 2) sending harmonized and coherent messages from all perspectives by using a variety of different communication channels, 3) providing a meaningful customer experience by considering the characteristics of contemporary art.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.