• 대한가정학회지
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2012

This study aims to reinterpret formative elements of Baeja, by applying them to the design of modern clothing. The main objective of the studying Baeja is to propose unique layered look items that can be readily put together for various weather conditions and occasions, be easily wearable and bring out unique individualities. After carefully studying Baeja from Joseon dynasty, flexible and practical layered-look items are designed. The following are the conclusions drawn from the work. First, it is possible to apply Baeja elements, such as the silhouette, traditional materials, and colors, to modern clothes, for a layered-look. Second, Baeja characteristics have a profound potential for a modern layered-look design, in that it is sleeveless, its length is long at the front and short at the back, and it comes with slits on both sides and a wide belt. The items inspired by such characteristic can easily be worn over and draped around daily clothes, according to weather conditions and occasions. Third, many decorative elements of Baeja, including detailed ornamental method, knots, patchworks, and string decorations create a unique and traditional image in modern clothes. Ribbonswhich can adjust the width of clothes are both practical and decorative. A reversible jacket is created by utilizing the same traditional sewing method for both inner and outer fabrics. One item can be worn in different styles, which increases practicality. Fourth, traditional and modern materials go well together. Such methods can create an item with both modern sensibility and traditional chic.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2009

This study is to examine unmarried women's preferences about wedding dresses. This is researched with a survey of 300 unmarried women in Ulsan and Seoul. The survey inquires their preferences of silhouettes, necklines, materials, and details in wedding dress. 290 valid questionnaires are analyzed statistically. Statistical analysis is used average, frequency, and crosstabs with SPSS10.0. The results of this study are as below; As for an income level, the high-income brackets in Ulsan preferred X silhouette, whereas in Seoul H silhouette. The low-income brackets in both areas preferred X silhouette. In necklines, boat neckline was preferred in both areas regardless of incomes. In materials, in Ulsan, the high-income brackets preferred silk, but the low-income brackets in Ulsan preferred satin. In Seoul, silk was preferred regardless of incomes. In details, the high-income brackets in both areas preferred beads and ribbon. In the low-income brackets, embroidery decorations were preferred in Ulsan, whereas beads, jewels and ribbons in Seoul. As for personalities, X silhouette was preferred in most personalities, A silhouette in some personalities in Seoul. In necklines, boat neckline is preferred in most personalities. In materials, silk was preferred in most personalities. In details, beads and jewels were preferred in most personalities. As for ages, in most ages, X silhouette was preferred in Ulsan, and X and A silhouettes in Seoul. In necklines, in most ages, boat neckline was preferred in both areas. In materials, silk was preferred in most ages. In details, beads and jewels were preferred in most ages.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.53-69
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• 2004

Located in a rear garden of Changdeok Palace, Yeonkyeong-Dang is valued as the most characteristic building of the houses of aristocrats of the later Joseon Dynasty. The time of the construction has been much debated, however, it is perceived through this research that the construction was completed in September 1827(the 27nd year of king Sunjo's reign). The shape of the buildings during this period resembles a letter ㄷ as shown in the picture of Dong-Kweol. We previously described that the purpose of Yeonkyeong-Dang was to carry the portrait of king Yikjong while keeping the shape of building when it was first established until the 8th year of king Heonjong (1842). In 1865 (the 2nd year of king Gojong's reign), it was reconstructed with very different outlook which has remained the present shape. The characteristic features of the residences of aristocrats were reflected in newly reconstructed Yeonkyeong-Dang. The structure was largely divided into two quarters that occupied by male and female residents respectively. The two quarters were bordered by fences and added with a study and a pavilion. The reconstruction was conducted by king Gojong's father, Daewon- Goon and its purpose was to prepare a separate house for the king and queen before the kings wedding that was about to come. During the 19th century, building an imitation of houses of aristocrats became quite a trend in the palace. Built in 1847, Nakseon-Jae was precedented and followed by Yeonkyeong-Dang. Also later Geoncheong Palace was built in Kyeongbok Palace in 1873. All of the three buildings imitated houses of aristocrats. Divided residences of male and female sections and splendid decorations were common features. Nakseon-Jae was the smallest in the structure of spaces, ornamentation of details and its sizes, Yeonkyeong-Dang was the second and Geoncheong Palace was the most distinguished building. The constructions of these three buildings created an innovative architectural wave in the 19th century palace. Yeonkyeong-Dang was the building that mediated the new flow of architectural structure in the 19th century palace.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.32-43
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• 1997

Deprivation of means to study the cultures and history of the natives of Bering Strait in their own lands, gives us and especially U. S. A. and Russia-where the objective regions of this study is pertained to-the great suffering of intellectual and aesthetic losses. Throughout 20th century, as political and economic forces prevailed, it became increasingly difficult for both Natives and outsiders to see this region as having common past. In such difficult circumstances, United Nations Council for Environmental Development held at Rio de Janeiro, Brasil in June, 1992 started out to give obligations to present environmental future. With such trend getting stronger and being in demand, this study is also focussed on coincides with such environmental matters and differs from man centered western civilization which ruled th environment rather than to harmonize with it. Through the studies of fashions and cultural materials of this region, it was able to identify the great similarities between Northwestern Alaska and Northeastern Siberia. Especially in the clothing materials of this region\`s toy dolls, it was possible to confirm that both side of Bering Strait possessed similar culture. Although both side had similar environment, in the past its peoples began to be seen as separated and alienated aligned only with their current political state-Russia and U. S. A. Through this study, it was able to see diversity of the peoples and thir languages but also close cultural and historical ties that link them very closely together. This study verified such similarities and common characteristics through close examination of Native clothing and decorations and other traditions of Siberian Natives such as Yupik, Chukchi, Koryak, Even, Amur River peoples and Nivkh; and Alaskan Natives such as Inupiag, Yupik, Alutiig, Aleut, Athapaskan, and Tlingit.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.275-294
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• 1996

In fashion there was a move away from the ascetic of the Gothic according to the appear-ance of a new spirit at the beginning of the fourteenth centuries initially in Italy. The new spirit Humanism applied their interest not to the universal but to the individual and particular. The Renaissace costume style based on the Humanism was sharp angled and curvy and had a grotesque silhouette with the exaggerated and tense decorations. The purpose of this study is researching the background led to the balanced costume style characterized by unique details. out of the tastte for luxury and beauty grew a new style known as slashing in which seams were left open and colored linigs thrust through or cuts were made in an entire cos-tume and contrasting material puffed out of the cuts. With the slashes another element was characterized in the high Renaissance cos-tume style that was the use of points or lace to hold a costume together. For the masculint costumes pads became into a fashion and were used for forming the antinatural artificial and bulky silhouettes. The body was distorted and tensed by putting the pads into the sleeves and bodice. The jacket with a full rounded bodice like a bow known as peascod belly and haut de chausses a onion-shaped trunk hose with a codipiece ap-peared and grew one of the most characteristic of Renaissance style. According to these sociological changes the view of the beauty based on the human body and in both of men and women the costume style was changed very much to emphasixed their physical beauty and finally it grew a grotesque style and even more a exposed style that exposed a part of their body. Those backgrounds as were stated above can be said to lead to the appearance of the grotesque style in the Renaissance Age.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the development of the women's fashion field with the goal of creating creative and experimental fashion styles through the categorization of cases of women's fashion design expressed with Maximalism, a type of expression used in modern fashion, as well as analyzing and examining the formativeness of this style. Qualitative research was conducted through a literature review and design case analysis. The scope of this research was from 2011 S/S to 2016 F/W, and the regional scope included the women's collections from Paris, Milano, London and New York. The results acquired are as follows. Initially, exaggeration was expressed through excessively exaggerating the overall silhouette of clothing or exaggeratedly distorting certain parts of the overall silhouette. Secondly, decoration was expressed through the use of the same colors and materials and the addition of excessive details and trimmings to express an exaggerated style of clothing as well as to express a luxurious and handcrafted style of clothing. Thirdly, fusion was expressed through integrating multiple items from different cultures, deconstruction, which destroys the concept of gender and use of clothing, and fashion style that transcends time and space. Fourthly, non-structurality was expressed through differentiating multiple weight feelings applied to the left/right sides of clothing or expressing a structural designs that is asymmetrical to the upper/lower/left/right directions to create a silhouette that displays a creative avant-garde style. As examined above, it was found that the maximalism expressed in fashion after 2011 created new images and expressed maximized emotional orientations through the exaggerated use of multiple silhouettes and decorations or through the integration of colors, patterns, ages and images. Through this process, maximalism is expected to not only provide an infinite possibility to the modern fashion that pursues diversification and multiplication, but also serve as an example that represents diversified post-modernism fashion trends in the future.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.129-144
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• 2000

In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.