• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.32
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• pp.427-463
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• 2016

This article deals with five main theories about the origin of Yeonwahdae(蓮花臺), a Korean court dance(jeongjae; 呈才) and its transmission process through the age from Chinese Dang(唐) and Song(宋) to Goryo(高麗) and Joseon(朝鮮) in Korea. As a result, it was found that there was a significant difference between Chinese Chaj-u(?枝舞) dance and Korean Yeonwahdae, and furthermore there was an enormous change as it came to Joseon period in the number of performer, costume and music. Therefore, it is seriously necessary to select, restore the main version of Yeonwahdae in each period, and to make an effort to create new version of Yeonwahdae that reflects the spirit and taste of our time. Besides, it is important to inherit the inner spirit of Yeonwahdae as well as its outer appearance. Shortly, the main purpose of Yeonwahdae performance at present should be to reflect the most important, urgent issues of our time thereby to pray the welfare and prosperity of our country.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.37
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• pp.5-31
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• 2018

The mask dance drama Goseong Ogwangdae's first act, Mundung Bukchum. The story is about a man who was born to the upper class but contracted leprosy, an incurable disease, due to his ancestors' accumulated sin. Although he is suffering, he is able to triumph over the disease through sinmyeong (catharsis) that is expressed through the wordless act of Mundung Bukchum. This thesis focuses on Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum, particularly the meaning, costume, accompanying music, and process of pedagogical transmission. The chronological characteristics of Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum are as follows. First, as time goes on, the number of dance motions in Mundung Bukchum has increased and the motions used have become reified. Second, I address the small barrel drum used in Mundung Bukchum and check how, through the drum, the changed expression of Mundung is shown.In a 1965 video introduced Mundung is grasping the drum and stick and the dance appears to be made up only of humorous motions. Also in a 1969 video, "Mundung Gwangdae," from the start Mundung is grasping the drum and stick. In 1988 in a video we can see the same scene as today, with the drum and stick sitting in the center of the stage at the start of the dance. We can also confirm that the same fourteen dance motions used today are present. Third, we can also confirm the changes in Goseong Ogwangdae's signature motion, baegimsae as time goes on. Observing the video from 1965, baegimsae does not appear in Mundung Bukchum. In 2000 we can clearly see the baegimsae performed once to the left and to the right while Mundung is squatting. Comparing 1969 to 1988, there is no symmetry in the motions, baegimsae is not done to both left and right, but only in one direction. Watching the record from 2000, the baegimsae motion is performed just as it is now, with the body thrown forward with a sharp push off the ground. Fourth I confirmed how the music used to accompany Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum has changed over time. In 1965 according to records of Mundung Bukchum's appearance, the dance was accompanied by the taryeong rhythmic pattern played on the usual four percussion instruments (barrel drum, hourglass drum, large gong, small gong). In the 1969 records of Mundung Bukchum the accompanying music is gutgeori rhythmic pattern performed on the usual four percussion instruments-an obvious difference. In 1988 the music with Mundung Bukchum is gutgeori rhythmic pattern transitioning into jajinmori rhythmic pattern. In 2000 the music with Mundung Bukchum includes the percussion instruments as well as taepyeongso (double reed oboe) playing gutgeori and jajinmori rhythmic patterns.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.35
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• pp.471-508
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• 2017

The basic intent of this thesis lies in proposing a meaningful direction of developing cultural content by combining Asian traditional dance forms which hold cultural closeness in common historically. For this study, this paper selected Oyangseon(五羊仙; 'Five Taoist Hermits on Five Sheep'), a Korean court dance of Chinese origin as an example as the Oyangseon story is commonly found in ancient Vietnam and China as well as Korea. Its original narrative is a mythic story that five hermits had come down to ancient Vietnam region riding on five sheep of five colors to bestow 6 ears of milets to people. Later, the story was spread to other regions to be reformed into Woljeongjeon(越井傳; Vietnam), Choi Wee(崔?; China) and Oyangseon(Korea) that have different plot and background. While Woljeongjeon and Choi Wee were adapted into novels that describe the hero Choi Wee's mysterious adventure to be repaid his father's previous devotion to ancient King's shrine. Meanwhile, the epic narrative of Korean Oyangseon proves the modification of the original myth by adding a Seowangmo(西王母; a Chinese mythic heavenly queen) motif while it was enacted as a court dance to praise king's long life and pray country's prosperity following Confucian concept. Based on this historical lineage of Oyangseon story, I searched for the possiblity of constructing a cultural content program by combining the Oyangseon dance of three countries. While there was Oyangseonmu(五羊仙舞) in China which was recently composed by referring to Korean Oyangseon, any traditional dance item based on Oyangseon story was not available in Vietnam. Thus, I tried to propose the Vietnam Dance College to choreograph a new dance item with Woljeongjeon story while using the traditional dance technique, music, costume, etc. of Vietnam as most as possible. As a result, I could display a direction of developing a cultural content by staging three countries' dance items based on Oyangseon story at Korean National Haneul Theater in Oct 2016.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.126-141
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$ and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$'s art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.143-152
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• 2005

Stepping in the 1990s, we has lived under the time of co-existence of diverse culture as well as faced the diffusion of pop-culture. The border between subculture style and hi-fashion has been blurred since beginning of 1990s. By this reason, recognizing the power of influence and importance of subculture style, we will try to provide the comprehensive vision reflecting the cultural background to analyze the subculture style. We will conclude this article with discussing the club-culture which is settle as one type of culture. Enjoying the club-culture, clubber tries to escape from the structural estrangement putting by the magical and symbolic meaning through creating their own style, and endowing their life the meaning. They make liquid club wear targeting at general young culture, pop culture, and subculture as well as hippies, Mods, funk. The Club wear around University sort out Hiphop Style, Casual Style, Mix and Match style. As at the club the hiphop music was played, the hiphop style dress becomes the club ware. Especially, training style clothes which is easy to dance has become the everyday dress, not just restricted in the indoor dress.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.167-185
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• 2013

Among korean traditional culture, TalChum(mask dance) which bears our unique cultural emotion, is about wearing a Tal(korean mask) and dancing, which express our ethnic feeling. The ethnic feeling was expressed into silhouette of hotel uniform which sightseers at home and abroad most frequently visit. This would be the best and the fastest way to show and deliver ethinic feeling of Korea. Fashion design of an uniform would be the best way to express group's unification and attachment. The purpose of this study was to design uniforms, in order to satisfy the property of function, aesthetic points, symbolism to inhere and to differentiate the group from others by using plastic and creative design. This study was meant to induce people to get near to characteristic of Korean culture, using hotel uniform design. Mask's plastic beauty of characteristic Chosun dynasty and express vividly Tal's image with Korean traditional reality was applied on hotel uniform design. By doing so, visitors can come back to the hotel with longtime memory of Korea. The characteristics and the humorous symbolism of Tal were designed and applied to uniform design on collar, bodice, pocket, and sleeves.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.73-88
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• 2008

The media culture influences upon young people while introducing new cultures by every hour. Considering the mainstream culture, in which media has the greatest effect on young people, this article examines the symbolic significances of youth fashion through media culture. The results of this study can be summarized as the following: First, young people's popular culture ("pop culture") is becoming the medium that leads to the creation of similar cultures of the young people globally through various routes. Culture is being created by integration of diverse media, and not by what is seen through a single medium. Typical young people's culture, which is formed due to the influence of media culture, includes community culture, pun culture, virtual culture and fandom culture. Second, in order to examine youth fashion that is seen in those media, the survey has been conducted on media stars, tecktonik dance groups, fashion models, avatars and online communities, which are fashion icons influencing young people. Third, youth fashion, which has been formed centering on media culture, has the flexible property that varies the symbolic significance according to which culture becomes the main axis. The symbolic significance in fashion, which is seen on media culture young people are contacting, has been examined in the aspects of value orientation, diversity orientation, speed orientation and digital orientation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.157-169
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• 1995

The confucianism, the Taoism, the Budd-hism and the Folk-Faith actually coexisted and all of them had also widespread infuluence on the Chosun Society. This thesis is designed to study symbol of Color Scheme expressed in the clothing of Chosun dynasty. For this thesis I examined records of Royal archives, books containing lifestyle of Chosun dynasty, genre paintings, documantary pain-tings, excorcist clothing and existing remains. And I synthetically studied symbol of the Clothing Color Schemes in Chosun dynasty on the bases of theoretical researches. The result were as follows. There were many cases of 1. Upper·lowergarments : Red-Blue, White-Blue, White-Blue Color Schemes. 3. Exorcist clothing : Red-Red, Blue-Yellow, Blue-Blue Color Schemes. 4. Multy-colored stripes : Same color arrange-ments were avoided in Color Schemes. In the case of Green Wonsam, Blue-Red-Yellow-White Clothing Color Scheme was obvious. 5. Dance wear : Red-Blue, Yellow-Red Color Schemes. Generally more than anything else Blue-red Clothing Color Scheme was widely used. Be-sides Blue-Red Color Scheme, there were also many cases of Red-Yellow, White-Blue Cloth-ing Color Schemes. As a whole, compatible Color Schemes were more often used than in-compatible Color Schemes were used with various symbols that were based on color concept of Yin-Yang O-haeng, Tae-il theory Folk-Faith and so forth in Chosun dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.61-75
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• 2001

This study was intended to observe strategic fashion-presentation in Music stars according to the change of the star system in the Korean popular musics. The Korean Music stars since 1990s have been made, fabricated and have excessively depended on the demand of the teenagers. Therefore their distinctive fashion-presentation is considered as more important element than those of the past. Consequently. the characteristics of the fashion-presentation in the Korean Music star these days are as follows : First. Music stars shows fashion-presentation that has a consistent fashion theme. That is one of the key success factor to raise the recognition of star singer. Second. Music star produces fashion images which reflects identity and of subculture. Those appearance have won wild popularity of the Peeps 1990's new generation. Third. although there is no change music genre and emotion. through merely renovation of their fashion image, Music star got diversity and originality of the characteristics of contemporary cultural goods. Fourth. In case of famous dance groups, in the past they maintained a singular atmosphere as a group, but in 1990'Music star group each members of the group have individually fashion-presentation. So, they can get more fans. Fifth, Music singers borrow or duplicate fashion-presentation from each others. Such as similar fashion-presentation guarantees support of the same fans.