• 복식
• /
• 제49권
• /
• pp.5-24
• /
• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권3호
• /
• pp.57-72
• /
• 2006

Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. In the beginning, only foreigners danced these dances, but Chinese started to dance them gradually. Thus, the dancing costume showed the complete fusion of Chinese and exotic styles. Especially, in the Tang dynasty, Chinese accepted foreign culture very actively and with open hearts. They accepted foreign culture based on their traditional culture, and fused them completely. In these costumes, not one culture was prominent, but many cultures from Gandhara to East and West Turkistan and even to Persian and Hellenism were synthesized together. Chinese, in the Tang dynasty, retained on their traditional culture and modified new foreign culture into Chinese style.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권8호
• /
• pp.99-113
• /
• 2007

The performing art represents joy, anger, sorrow and pleasure through acting and dance, and is told to be a composite art represented by make-up, setting, costume and props. Therefore, it can be said that make-up is an important medium of stage art. Make-up in stage art is a kind of communication with audiences through understanding personalities of characters as demanded by scenarios. Due to the creative stage make-up which meets the character in the play relevant to these contents of the play, the conceptual study on stage make-up design for visual expression coincide with the intended character is needed. In this study, I investigate theoretical, universal, and psychological personality types by analyzing basic appearance features based on the physiognomy(face-reading) related from the psychological theories. And visualized through illustration according to personality types to apply for the characters in the play.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권5호
• /
• pp.180-201
• /
• 2009

I scrutinized the idea that Parhae Marek was inherited from Kokuryo which was presented in "The study on the Marek" published in the journal of the Korean Society of Costume 55-5, and concluded the following results: 1. The Marek which Samguk sagi recorded is the red head scarf used for dancers who do Koguryo dance in the Babarian Music System in Tang dynasty. Since its original record Tong dian tells that Kokuryo performers' costumes then had strikingly changed and Quichi and GaoChang dancers also wore Marek, so the idea that Marek was originated from Koguryo should be reconsidered. 2. Considering the Yaksoori mural's indistinguishable condition as well as the same scenes from other Kokuryo mural paintings, I can't evidently tell that the first person who carries shouldering drum puts Marek on. 3. should be pronounced [Mal] for the meaning of a head scarf and its definition can't be limited only for the sash type. 4. Diverse historical data on head scarves deny the assumption that the sash type of hairband would have been succeeded from Kokuryo to the Parhae Marek. 5. The Marek of Princess Junghyo's mural painting can be an example that shows the costume of Tang influenced Parhae's. But the similarity in styles of costume between contemporary countries doesn't mean their reciprocal racial or political identity.

• 복식
• /
• 제47권
• /
• pp.125-142
• /
• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권2호
• /
• pp.154-168
• /
• 2009

This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• 제52권6호
• /
• pp.551-560
• /
• 2014

In this study, we have focused on various types of costumes for traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae. To analyze their costumes, spot photographs of Ganggangsullae contests from 2011 and 2013 were collected from the Department of Culture and Tourism, Jindo County Office and the Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Costumes were analyzed by categorising them as type, shape and color. Traditional Ganggangsullae costumes are two types: traditional hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. Traditional hanbok design dates back to the late Joseon dynasty and saenghwal hanbok design to the middle Joseon Dynasty. They reflects confucianism, a male-dominated society, totemism, shamanism and Yin-Yang and the five elements theory in agrarian society and community life. Daily dance Ganggangsullae has various types of costumes such as the fusion hanbok, saenghwal hanbok, cheering uniform and casual wear. They show modern color schemes. There is not any magical meaning from Yin-Yang and the five elements theory. Instead, they have individualism, liberty, equality and welfare in information-oriented society. So its costumes are easy and comfortable clothes. But traditional hanbok, fusion hanbok and saenghwal hanbok are inspired from Korean identiry. Even though traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae have different costumes and ideology, they have a common denominator 'playfulness.' It will function as a key for Ganggangsullae to be performed continuously over the period.

• 트랜스-
• /
• 제1권
• /
• pp.21-44
• /
• 2016

본 논문은 광고와 무용이 어떤 기호를 통해 의미를 전달하는지, 그리고 광고 안에서 그려지는 무용과 무용수의 모습이 가진 기호적 의미는 무엇인가를 파악한다. 이를 위해 무용으로 표현된 기호들이 광고의 목적에 부합하는지를 알아보고, 무용 그 자체의 기호적 의미를 재평가함으로써 일반 대중이 무용을 수용하는 방식과 모습을 발견하고자 한다. 이를 위해 광고 관련 제작자 및 연출가의 관련 자료를 확보 하였으며, TV광고에 나타난 신체기호로서의 무용의 이미지를 분석하고 연구목적과 관련된 선행연구와 이미지 및 효과를 분석한다. TV광고 분석은 TVCF 홈페이지, www.TVCF.co.kr 자료를 참고로 연도별 광고에 활용된 무용분야의 빈도수 중 가장 많을 때인 2008년 TV광고4편 남광토건, 롯데백화점(프리미엄세일/상품권), 현대자동차산타페- 필로볼러스(Pilobolus), 2011년 1편 PNS더존샤시- 아레나 디 베로나(Arena di Verona)로 제한한다. 또한 각각의 광고를 반복적으로 본 결과 중요하다고 판단되는 것을 기준으로 무용수의 움직임이나 통선이 크게 바뀌는 부분과 화면 문구가 변경되는 부분을 중심으로 분석한다. 무용의 이미지 분석은 신제 이미지(선, 의상, 표정), 무용 이미지(움직임의 형태, 질적 특성, 춤의 분위기)에 따른 구조를 살피는 방식으로 이루어 졌다. 그 결과 TV광고에 나타난 기호적 무용이미지는 다음과 같이 논의 될 수 있다. 첫째, 무용을 활용한 광고에서 무용이 가진 상징과 기호가 광고하려는 물질적 대상에 일치한다. 예컨대 이용우가 출연하는 TV광고에서 그의 기표로서의 움직임은 빠른 턴, 점프, 아쌈블레, 터닝 점프, 슬라이딩 등을 통해 남광토건 기업의 미래의 도전이라는 기의를 알 수 있다. 둘째, 발신자의 의도에 따른 무용수의 신체 이미지는 일반적으로 일치하는 반면, 무용 이미지의 경우 다소 차이가 있음을 알 수 있다. 이는 TV광고에 나타나는 기호적 무용의 이미지는 대중들로 하여금 시청함과 동시에 무의식적으로 인지하도록 한다. 특히 TV프로그램 중에서도 광고는 선택의 여지와는 상관없이 하나의 광고만을 시청하기보다는 방송사측에서 편성된 프로그램의 방영으로 부득불 자주 노출되며 이로써 오랜 시간 머릿속에 잔상으로 남게 됨으로 수신자 개개인의 생각과 특성여부에 따라 달리질 수 있다. 이처럼 광고는 일반인들이 예술문화를 생활 속에서 자연스레 흡수할 수 있게 하는 매개체이며, TV 광고를 통한 대중예술의 전파는 소수계층에게만 수용되었던 순수예술을 대중에게 폭넓게 노출시킴으로써 오늘날 진정한 대중문화로서의 예술로 승화시킬 수 있으리라 생각된다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2014

This study examines research trends in the dissertations and journal articles on stage costume so as to provide basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December, 2012 and retrieved by a keyword related to the "design of stage costume", "costume for performing art", and etc. Theses and articles for the analyses were a total of 200 published. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 8 Chronicles of 5 years in each term. The findings of the study are as follows: According to the chronological analysis, there has been a steady increase in the rates of the musical, ballet, dance, and circus costume and cutting edged technology such as LED has been utilized in the performing art, currently. The real production and making up of the costumes have been increasing as well by replacing of illustration and rendering of the costumes. In the recent costume of the performing arts show the tends of the visual effects and up-sizing, comprehensiveness and fusion. From the analysis of the background of the work, those were confirmed that the most common historical period was modern period, and places were France, England, and Egypt. In regard to research themes and methods, many of research papers utilized content analysis method, character analysis method as research methods. The most popular presentation of the costume designs was "rendering", "costumes schedule" and "illustration". However, development and explanation of the patterns was insufficient and constructions methods and real works(costumes) were usually omitted in the articles.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권9호
• /
• pp.41-57
• /
• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.