• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is research on the characteristics of post-modernism expressed on western hair styles in the late 20th century. Therefore this thesis analyzed the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. That will re-illuminate the same beauty worth of same age as to accurate the concept of post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. And the last, criticizing the post-modernism design and that hair design, helping to find new trends. The method of this study was the literature research & analysis of visual materials focus on upper bust image that can know the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage, and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. First, the literature research is composed of analysis of theses, magazines on art, clothing and cosmetology having the contents of 20th century western culture, art and hair styles. Second, the analysis of visual materials is composed of analysis of video films, slide films and photographs of books, magazines, and internet home-pages. Modern western hair styles, appeared after 1910's, is represented as a short cut & permanent wave. That express experimentalism, functionalism, and purism, that is same as the other art's trend of same age. Post-modern western hair styles, appeared after 1960's, also show the same trend with same age's. This summarized & characterized 8 categories; historical method, pluralism, negotiation, escape from the formality, recovery of humanity, ornament, connection with race, metaphor & symbolism. But post-modernism concentrating pluralism makes easy making low quality art and absence of criticism, so this thesis criticised it 5 categories; absence of ideas, absence of the social sense of responsibility, lost of one's characteristics, decline of skills, decline of worth of usages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.112-124
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• 2011

Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1155-1172
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• 2009

Wearable computers can be defined as next generation clothing integrated with various digital functions and devices. Unlike existing computers, they are viewed as human-centric computers customized for information utilization and other specific human needs. This study is intended to discover how consumers are accepting wearable computers, which are different from existing computers, based on Technology Acceptance Model(TAM) and to extend the model by adding variable regarding acceptance of wearable computers. A total of 683 copies of questionnaires, distributed to those aged 19 and older, both male and female, were collected online. The data was statistically analyzed for this study using the extended TAM. In order to test hypotheses, the structural equation model using the Lisrel 8.30 version was performed. For analyzing constructs(or traits) of research model, exploratory factor was conducted and the measurement model was assessed from the result. Reliability was assessed through confirmatory factor analysis and the calculation of Cronbach's alpha coefficients. Overall, model fit was assessed by statistical indexes: Chi-square value, GFI, AGFI, and RMR. This study analyzed the process of acceptance of wearable computers with the extended TAM that includes a variable, perceived value, on the basis of previous studies. The results of the analysis revealed that attitude toward wearable computer was directly influenced by perceived usefulness and perceived value but indirectly influenced by perceived ease of use. Acceptance intention of the wearable computer was directly influenced by perceived value and attitude toward wearable computer. To be more specific, perceived usefulness was significantly correlated with both attitude toward wearable computer and acceptance intention of the wearable computer. Perceived value was also significantly correlated with both attitude toward wearable computer and acceptance intention of the wearable computer. The results of this study also suggested that perceived ease of use was actually a causal antecedent to perceived usefulness and perceived value. This research revealed that extended TAM to investigate the acceptance of wearable computer was appropriate. This study is intended to provide a theoretical framework for adoption of wearable computer and suggest empirical analysis that can serve as a guide for wearable computer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.45-56
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• 2011

This study is about the features of hybridization of ethnic-cultural elements in Korean fashion magazines. Its purpose was to embody more creative and newer images in fashion by promoting better mutual understanding of foreign cultures and addressing the issues of fashion design from multicultural perspectives. In doing so, the present study conducted a literature review and analyzed a total of 130 photographic images with any hybrid ethic element from two Korean fashion magazines, Vogue Korea and Harper's Bazaar Korea, issued between 2005 and 2009. The analysis revealed that there were 66 images(50.8%) with a mixture of two different cultures and 64 images(49.2%) with a mixture of three or more different cultures. As seen from the results, the two categories had a similar number of cases. In regional terms, the use of two different cultural elements included a mixture of Asian and Western cultures in 32 images(24.6%), a mixture of Western and African, Middle Eastern or Latin American cultures in 23(17.7%), and a mixture of Western and Russian or European folk cultures in 11(8.5%). In the use of three or more different cultural/national elements, the present study found a mixture of Asian, African, Middle Eastern, Latin American and Western costume items in 20 photo images(15.4%), a mixture of African, Middle Eastern and Latin American elements plus Western costume items in 19 images( 14.6%), a mixture of all regional cultures in 13 photos(10%), and a mixture of Asian ethic cultures plus Western costume items in 12 cases(9.2%). The results of this analysis indicated that the hybridization of ethnic-culture elements in Korean fashion magazines consisted of diverse clothing and accessories from various ethnic groups. The expression of these multi-cultural hybrid images that consists background images and models from different cultures well-portrayed the multi-cultural elements based on total coordination and broke the stereotypical aspects of styling.