In this study, university students were allowed to wear the slacks varying the thigh circumference(slim/straight type) and crotch length(long, middle, short crotch type). Tightness and uncomfortability for each slacks were measured to be expressed 5point-likert type. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. At the research for measuring uncomfortability, measures of slim types and straight types of thigh circumference, crotch length B and C, and the body movement such as sitting down on the chair, sitting down with their body curling like a ball, and getting down on their knees were higher in slim types than in straight types. 2. Only crotch length C had different measures between these two types in tightness. 3. In uncomfortability, each of them had different measures among three kinds of crotch length and two types of thigh circumference had different measures among three kinds of crotch length. Four kinds of movement had different measures among three kinds of crotch length in uncomfortability. While uncomfortability of crotch length B was the highest one, that of crotch length A was the lowest one. 4. In tightness, each of them had different measures among three kinds of crotch length. While tightness of crotch length C was the highest one, that of crotch length A was the lowest one. Four kinds of movement had different measures among three kinds of crotch length in tightness.
The purpose of this study was to offer a more functional slacks by analyzing its crotch length. The result of the study were as follows : Regarding the feeling of wearing and appearance, the P2 b style which measures the crotch length starting from the waist line passing around the iliac spine was the most highly evaluated. This suggested that the functionality of dance movement was more influenced by the position of the waist line not by the crotch length measurement. Since the front and rear center lines of the crotch could not be flown if the waist line of slacks was positioned high, both the crotch and abdominal part might be clogged or tightened when dancers made large dance movements or bended their upper bodies forward. In conclusion, slacks for more functional dance movement should be manufactured focusing on the location of the waist line rather than on the crotch length.
The purpose of this study is to define the detailed factors related to expressing the aesthetic image of various baggy pants with changes to the hip circumference and crotch length ease. For this, detailed factors expressing the aesthetic image of baggy pants were deduced, and the aesthetic image and mutual influence according to the change in the hip circumference and crotch length ease were analyzed. Nine baggy pants with different levels of hip circumference and crotch length ease were produced as experimental pants. The image of each pair of experimental baggy pants was evaluated based on pictures taken of the pants worn by a woman in her 20s with a standard body figure. The image assessment team was composed of 105 clothing majors. The research results are as follows. Three aesthetic image factors of baggy pants were extracted: attractiveness, elegance and activity. When there was not much ease in the hip circumference and crotch length of the baggy pants, it appeared to look more attractive, younger and fashionable. A dignified and feminine image was perceived more when there was less ease in the hip circumference regardless of the crotch length. Because there was less ease in the hip circumference and crotch length, it appeared to be more comfortable, active and soft. These research results show that baggy pants with too much ease in the hip circumference or crotch length are perceived to be less attractive and actually as inactive. As seen here, there is a difference in the aesthetic image according to the change in the hip circumference and crotch length of the baggy pants; therefore, baggy pants which suits a person's own body type can be chosen to enhance the preferred aesthetic image of individuals.
The purpose of this study is to conduce the survey of three groups of college women living in different residential districts, Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and a district, each other, analyze the actual condition of wearing blue jeans, comparative investigate actual condition in each residential district of wearing blue jeans and cognition by change of crotch length and trend through comparison of cognition on dressed blue jeans with short crotch length. By which investigation, it was intended to understand their condition and propose of blue jeans as may offer fit with short crotch length. As the result of this study, it presented college women had hipbone blue jeans in order of $2\sim3$ and more than 4 in all of residential districts, they purchased hipbone blue jeans with crotch length in order of for middle crotch(23 cm) and short crotch(21cm) commonly in all of residential districts, and they care a lot for exposing back waist and hip of hipbone blue jeans without reference to residential district. They had a bad feeling for exposure, and as an alternative to deal with this, they answered mostly on 'wearing hipbone underwear' or 'wearing long upper garment', and there was significant difference between residential districts in silhouette and exterior fitness of crotch length among important factors when wearing hipbone blue jeans.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.18
no.5
/
pp.602-614
/
1994
The purpose of this study was to suggest the proper ease of total crotch length concerning both appearance and comfort. The research processes as follows. 1) For the purpose of obtaining the necessary ease of slacks in body movement, experimental slacks of no ease of total crotch length were made. Three college girls putting on these experimental slacks were examined on their back middle waist lines using cross-cut method. 2) Experimental slacks for suggesting the proper ease consist of 7 types; slacks CO, Wl, W3, W5, W7, C3, C5. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the 7 slacks. The results can be summarized as follows. 1. As the leg-movement angle increased, the vertical space increased and the horizontal space decreased. There was negative relationship between vertical and horizontal space. And as the leg.movement angle increased, the area of space increased. The shapes of space showed the amounts of space and the direction of force by the movements. 2. The appearances of slacks C3, W3, C5 were better than the other slacks. The eases of the crotch were better than those of the waist line in appearance. And slakcs W7 was better than any other , ;lacks in comfort. When the amount of each part of eases was same, the comfort in eases of crotch was not as good as that of waist line. 3. In slacks, the proper ease of total crotch length was 3% and 5% of total crotch length.
In the 2010s, skinny jeans were trendy, and they became a must-have for young women. The styles, clothing pressure and buying behavior of skinny jeans have been studied, but the patternmaking of skinny jeans has not been researched yet. To analyze skinny jeans patterns, we grouped skinny jeans into nine brands. They were sorted into three groups: special jeans brand, trendy jeans brand, and SPA brand. This study compared skinny jeans' sizing systems, product dimensions and pattern measurements in three brand groups. The appearance and fit of skinny jeans were evaluated by random groups of people in their 20s and 30s. The sizing systems for skinny jeans were different with KS K0051, and they were shown waist girth in inches. The waist and hip circumferences were different among brand groups. In product dimensions, trendy jeans brands had a shorter crotch length, a lower crotch depth, a narrower back crotch width, and a longer inseam than the others. The measurements of skinny jeans flat patterns were significantly different in as below; front crotch depth, front crotch height, front crotch length, back crotch extension, gap between back and front crotch depth, back crotch height, back crotch length, and center back angle. In the sensory survey results, trendy jeans brands were evaluated well in the fit of the waist line, hip line, crotch line, midthigh line, outseam, inseam, side waist line, crotch length and overall fit.
With a long crotch length and much ease in the hip area, baggy pants are visually expressed in a variety of designs when compared with regular pants. The purpose of this study is to define the image differences of various baggy pants designs according to hip circumference and crotch length ease. To that end, this study deduced the visual image variable of experimental baggy pants and analyzed visual images according to changes in hip circumference and crotch length. Nine baggy pants with different levels of hip circumference and crotch length ease were produced as experimental pants. The image of each pair of experimental baggy pants was evaluated based on pictures taken of the pants worn by a woman in her 20s with a standard body figure. The image assessment team was composed of 105 clothing majors. The research results are as follows. Four visual image factors of experimental baggy pants were extracted: whole body compensation, lower body compensation, hip compensation, and waist compensation. Among the 4 factors, the whole body compensation factor was shown as the most representative factor. The body compensation image was higher with less hip circumference ease in the experimental baggy pants, and more hip circumference ease created the optical illusion of a larger body figure, presenting a significant difference between waist circumference and hip circumference. The lower body compensation factor, hip compensation factor, and waist compensation factor all showed a significant influence on changes in hip circumference ease. This result shows that changes in hip circumference ease exerted more influence on the body compensation image than did changes in crotch length ease. The results of this study provide basic data for predicting visual images according to differences in the level of ease in baggy pants, helping people select clothing suitable to their preferences and body shapes.
It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.20
no.1
/
pp.54-65
/
1996
The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.
According to the design method for constructing the crotch angle of traditional Korean men's trousers there are differences in from after its completion. Since there is no standardization of visual & aesthetic pattern for the construction method which is stablished by the calculation formular of waist girth hip girth pantleg end and upper outer leg length it is difficult to be used for educational use or for teaching materials. Therefore the purpose of this project according to five models in proportion to the physical standard of Korea in ages from 24 to 29 years old is to establish a design criterion and the standardization of construction methods by introduction the pant construction method of the crotch angle by converting the sitting posture length to seaming crotch center point both knees width in the Korean way of sitting. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The waist girth formular is {{{{ { w} over {4 } }}}}+{{{{ {w} over {10 } }}}}(2) The hip girth formular is {{{{ {H } over { 4} }}}}+{{{{ {H } over {5 } }}}}(3) The pantleg end formular is {{{{ {H } over {4 } }}}}(4) A crotch angle is fixed at 70 degress.(5) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5:8 (6) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length in 5:8(7) The ratio of the division point of front / right inner leg length and left inner leg width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8
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