• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1933-1946
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• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.381-382
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• 2007

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.37-42
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• 2003

Although fibre reactive dyes for wool were developed before those for cellulosic fibres, there are still limited ranges of fibre reactive dyes available for wool compared to those for cellulosic fbres. Since Fujioka and Abeta introduced the first mixed bifunctional reactive system in the early 1980s for cellulosic fibres, there has been some works on cotton and on silk. (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.10b
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• pp.247-248
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• 2003

최근 환경과 건강에 대한 관심이 증대되면서, 염색 가공분야에 있어서도 환경오염을 일으키지 않으면서도 위생적인 쾌적성을 부여하는 가공이 큰 주목을 받고 있다 이러한 측면에서 황토와 키토산은 두 가지 요구를 모두 충족시킬 수 있는 훌륭한 천연소재이다. 본 연구에서는 황토 염색 전, 후에 키토산을 처리한 면직물을 이용하여, 키토산의 농도와 처리 조건에 따른 항균성 중진효과를 고찰하고자 하였다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.375-378
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• 2001

At the time of facing strict environmental regulations, environmentally friendly dyeing technology is being highlighted due to the potential possibility of reducing environmental impact, so is the preparation process that uses a great deal of water and generates as much contamination. Enzyme technology has been regarded as an eco-friendly solution to industrial problems, saving water, chemicals and energy. (omitted)

• Journal of Korea Foresty Energy
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.22-27
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• 2006

K/S values, Hue, Value, and Chroma changes of the hot-water and alkali extract of Boehmeria tricuspis have investigated to obtain an optimum dyeing conditions. Maximum optical absorption of the cotton, Hanji, and silk dyed with the extract were observed at 400 nm. The K/S value of the dyed silk was higher than those of other materials in the treatments with the temperature and time condition and there was not much changes in the treatments near $80\;^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes. Also, the K/S value of the dyed silk was drastically increased as the concentration of the dye was increased. In the treatments with temperature and time condition, Hue of the materials dyed with alkali extracts resulted in YR color, whereas materials dyed with hot-water extracts provided R color. In the time and temperature condition of treatment, there were no significant changes in the samples treated near $80\;^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes. The Value and Chroma of the dyed materials were not significantly changed. As a result, it is suggested that the optimum temperature, time, and concentration of dye would be $80\;^{\circ}C$, 40 minutes, and 100%, respectively, when cotton, Hanji, and silk are dyed with Boehmeria tricuspis extract.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-9
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• 2007

In recent years, the application of digital textile printing has increased. The benefits of using this method include the ease of sampling and the production of printed textiles. However, the production process of digital textile printing differs from that of conventional printing. For successful digital textile printing by ink-jet technology, the pretreatment of fabrics is very important in order to overcome the following problems. Low viscosity ink can spread easily on the textile surface leading to poor resolution. As a result, the combination of ink and pretreatment chemicals is still impractical and consequently most fabrics used in digital textile printing will require a pre treated coating in order to prevent the ink colours from bleeding on the fabric. Research presented in this paper shows some preliminary attempts to establish the relationship between the pre treatment and the digital textile printing quality. Various cotton fabrics were treated with pre treatment agents including ingredients like thickener, alkali and humectant, and then ink spread effect and colour yield of printed fabrics by reactive ink were analysed by using an optical microscope and K/S value. The results show that digital textile printing quality on cotton fabrics can be optimized with appropriate pre treatments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.115-131
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• 2007

By the turn of the century, our society has been gradually more interested in environmental problems than any other time. Ecological change spurred by industrial pollution is occurring beyond the borders of nations, and has emerged as a global issue. Such change is resulting in exhaustion of natural resources and energy, and serious climatic change. In this study, main focus regarding the process of the fashion product design system was placed on the sustainable fashion design of organic cotton as a positive and alternative suggestion. It is expected that the results of this study contribute to the fashion design planning not only for future generation but also for the present time. This study researched on brands that produced their fashion products using organic cotton. The following cases proved to possess sustainability in their product system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: Firstly, sustainable design in organic cotton products has been a progressive ere-design in 2000s. It is mainly focus concerned with recycling and re-use of materials to protect environment. It is not chemical dependant and takes a particular care in eliminating waste water and energy in the dyeing process. It is an environmentally sustainable design better than all the other design processes. Secondly, it is a design that cares for the common good of society and the global system of fair trading. The fair trading of organic cotton products induced a change in the structure of production system, while defending human rights. It also gave benefits by promoting development in local society and progress in traditional skills. Not to mention that it contributed to building up the concept of transparency in the global economic system. Lastly, the brands emphasize their social responsibility and management ethics to observe environmental policy which is established to protect our nature and people. Their public information reminds customers of the importance of protecting the environment from diverse pollution. Moreover, they hold social events to promote public awareness for environmental Issues. This study dealt only with the organic cotton, a small subset of the subject of sustainable design. It can be extended and applied to various other sustainable fashion design as a solution for global environmental issues.