• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.77-94
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• 2010

It was the era, from 1876 to 1910, that some dramatic changes, including an influx of foreign dyes and the beginning of the modern dyeing manufacture, happened in Korea. This paper explores what dyes were sold in the market in this period, who was the main seller of the goods, and how the dyers produced their products. A wide range of natural dye stuffs coexisted with the various kinds of aniline dyes, alizarin dye and synthetic indigo in the market. Coloring materials had been sold by hwapi-jeon, a group of official merchants who acquired a privilege of monopoly from the government. However, the dyes were also traded by sang-jeon and yakguk merchants in the nineteenth century. Most of the synthetic dyes sold in Korea were produced in Germany or in Japan later, and imported in large amount by Chinese, Japanese and German merchants. Yet there also existed Korean merchants and peddlers who sold the goods to the local consumers. Dyers were male and female who belonged to the middle class. They received the orders and payments from the government or merchants. Not only did they dye textiles, threads, cotton, paper and leather, but they also redyed clothes. Indigo dyers were differentiated from other dyers. Modern dyeing manufacture, which was presumably forced to keep pace with the productivity of the weaving process, appeared in the 1900s. It was a branch of the modern weaving manufacture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.147-154
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• 2006

In this study 1, the dyeability and sun protection characteristic of the fabrics dyed with pine needles extract was investigated. In the test of color difference, the surface color of all the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk came to light as greenish yellow. In the test of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of dyed cotton fabric was below 2nd grade and the one of dyed silk fabric was below 3rd grade. The colorfastness to laundry for the degree of discoloration showed a difference as to mordants, but the colorfastness to laundry for the degree of contamination was excellent as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to perspiration was excellent as the degree of discoloration was more than 3rd grade and the degree of contamination was more than 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed the excellent result as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. In the test of sun protection factor(SPF), the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed very high sun protection characteristic as the SPF was each 36.1 and 42.5. In the test of sun protection rate for UV-A and UV-B, the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed the very high sun protection rate of more than $90\%$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.56-64
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• 2013

In order to examine the availability of color developing for prepared persimmon extract powder dyes, purified and freeze-dried powder from immature persimmon fruit. The cotton fabrics dyed with 1% concentration of powder dyes. This study was conducted to examine into the color developing effects of the powder dye for the dyed cotton fabrics irradiated with xenon light. Powder dye is difficult to dissolve in water resulting in a colloidal and viscous solution. The problem of solubility in water was resolved by setting the dyeing conditions by wetting the dye with alcohol in advance and dissolving in warm water($50{\sim}60^{\circ}C$). Samples had no alkaline conversion in making process of powder dyes showed high color developing effect(${\Delta}E^*$, K/S). Samples showed decreased ${\Delta}E^*$, K/S with increased alkaline conversion in making process of powder dyes. Samples that had alkaline effects displayed easy early color developing to be advantageous in the process of natural pattern in art work.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.122-128
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• 2010

This study examined several dyeing properties, physiological responses and comfort sensation of cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal. The cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and treated with chitosan showed 99.9% antibacterial property and improved deodorization, and colorfastness. Eight children with atopic dermatitis worn underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal during 4 months. Their parents reported fewer itches of children. Wearing cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and non-dyed with bamboo charcoal respectively, these eight children rested for 20 minutes, then exercised for 10 minutes, and then rested for 30 minutes in the room maintained $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ Children's rectal temperature, skin temperature and microclimate inside garment of two types of cotton knit underwear were compared. As a result, the rectal temperature and skin temperature were higher when children were wearing underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal than non-dyed underwear. The microclimate temperature and microclimate humidity at the back of children were lower when children with underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal exercised and recovered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.79-89
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• 1998

This study was carried out the effect of stability and color extract for it's condition in the curcuma L.. dyeing. The stability is to investigate the absorbance of the curcumin, one of the major yellow pigments and the stability regarding the effect of light, oxygen temperature and pH. The dyeing condition is compared the effect of mordanting condition and the best way to extract pigment and analysed through the color-fastness rating, color-difference value test. The main results obtained are summarized as follows ; 1.The best and proper solvent to extrect curcumin pigment was a ethanol and a distilled water. 2. The light effect indicated that the absorbances of solution in absence of ligh was more stable. 3. The oxygen(O2) effect to curcumin show-ed that the condition in the absence of O2 was more stable than that in presence of O2 4. The temperature showed that the absorbnace was best stable in4$^{\circ}C$ and less changed at $25^{\circ}C$ 5. The curcumin-etanol solution was stable in pH 2~4. 6. Generally color-fastness rating to silk, wool and cotton indicated that crocking C.F. and perspiration C.F. were more than 3rd grade and dry cleaning C.F. was more than 4th grade. But light color-fastness and washing color-fastness were very poor. 7. To make good color fastness, the mordan-ting treated group and the pre-mordant conditions were more effective than others 8. When compared with color-difference value test indicated that the silk was looks like more reddish and bluish color and than the wool and cotton were greenish and bluish. As a mordant, A(C2H4OH(COOH3) and D(K2Cr2O7)were more effective to make green-ish color in the silk and the reddish color was abtained by B(Al.K(SO4)2.12H2O) and C(FeSO4.7H2O).

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.14-14
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• 2012

Nylon 6 섬유는 우수한 기계적 물성과(강성, 탄성회복률 등) 염색성 등의 장점을 가지고 있어 의류용 등의 다양한 용도로 활용되어 왔다. Nylon 6 섬유를 포함한 대부분의 합성섬유는 천연섬유인 cotton 대비 흡수성이 낮고, cotton은 흡수성은 탁월하나 수분 건조속도가 매우 느리고 가격이 고가(약 10$/kg)여서 이를 대체할 새로운 고쾌적성 의류용 nylon 합성섬유의 개발이 시도되고 있다. 1953년 최초로 합성이 보고된 nylon 4는 구조상 소수성 탄소수가 적으며 친수성 아마이드기가 상대적으로 많아 흡수성과 속건성이 탁월한 이점을 가짐으로써 면을 대체할 수 있는 꿈의 합성섬유로 인식되었다. 1980년대 Chevron Research사를 중심으로 활발한 사업화 연구가 진행되었지만, 녹는점 $265^{\circ}C$) 대비 낮은 열분해온도($260^{\circ}C$) 특성으로 방사가공 시 내열성 문제를 극복하지 못해 아직까지 상업화에 이르지는 못하고 있다. 최근, 일본 산업기술종합연구소(AIST)를 중심으로 다시 바이오매스 유래 nylon 4의 개발이 시도됨에 따라 의류용 용도전개에 있어 가격 경쟁력을 갖춘 획기적인 소재 전환이 기대되고 있으며, 이로 인해 nylon 4 중합 연구가 다시 전 세계적 주목을 받기 시작하였다. 국내에서도 최근 nylon 4의 방사 내열성을 극복하고 기능성 부여가 가능한 nylon 4 공중합물에 대한 대체 연구가 본격적으로 진행 중에 있다. 본 연구에서는 현재 국내에서 진행 중인 nylon 4 공중합 섬유의 연구동향과 함께 nylon 6 대비 물성 및 염색특성 차이를 비교함으로써 향후 산업화에 기초 자료로 활용하고자 한다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.121-121
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• 2012

To evaluate the Hwangsu spring as natural mordants effect on dyeing. The natural mordant effect of Hwangsu spring was analyzed by pH, temperature, trace elements and organic matter. Hwangsu spring having pH 2.42 and $14.4^{\circ}C$ was harvested at the end of September, 2011, in Yeongcheon(Gyeongbuk Province, Korea) and left on a $0^{\circ}C$ and $25^{\circ}C$ before use. The Result of ICP analysis, it contain bned Fe(414.9 ppm), Al(88.9 ppm), Mn(4.9 ppm). Dyeing and post-mordant procedure; Fabrics(cotton, silk, rayon) were dyed with natural colorants(Sopbora Japonica L., Caesalpinia sappan L., Allium cepa L.) for 20 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Hwangsu spring, aluminium sulfate $14-18H_2O(Al_2(SO_4)_3{\cdot}14-18H_2O)$, iron sulfate peptahydrate($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$), copper sulfate pentahydrate($CuSO_4{\cdot}5H_2O$) were used by post mordants. But in the case of Caesalpinia sappan L. was dyed after pre-mordanting with Al(II). The fabrics were dyed with each mordant solutions at $25^{\circ}C$ for 10min. The colorless also was measured by color-differnce meter. Comparison with a synthetic mordants, the K/S values of cotton fabrics dyed with Hwangsu sping were increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. In previous study, dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out and Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. For further evaluation of its efficacy as a new natural dye resource, effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for silk fiber. Metasequoia cone colorant showed good affinity toward silk fiber showing YR Munsell color and maximum dye uptake was shown at pH 3.5. Post-mordanting with Cu and Fe improved dye uptake, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabrics with mordanting showed YR Munsell color. Fe mordanted fabrics appeared dark gray~black color. Colorfastness to washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics showed grade 2. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorant can be used as a new dye resource for silk fiber getting brownish yellow to dark gray/black color depending on mordant type. In addition, it showed antimicrobial functionality.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.42-42
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• 2011

To evaluate the Hwangsu spring as natural mordants effect on dyeing. The natural mordants effect of Hwangsu spring were analyzed by pH, temperature, trace elements, organic matter and color fastness. Hwangsu spring having pH 2.42 and $14.4^{\circ}C$ was harvested at the end of September, in Yeongcheon (Gyeongbuk Province, Korea) and left on a $0^{\circ}C$ and $25^{\circ}C$ before use. Hwangsu spring during storage at $25^{\circ}C$ turned brown by photochemical reaction. The Result of ICP analysis, it contained Fe(414.9 ppm), Al(88.9 ppm), Mn(4.9 ppm) and observed character by water analysis. Dyeing and post-mordant procedure; Cotton(KS K 0905) were dyed with clove powder for 30 min at $70^{\circ}C$. Hwangsu spring, Aluminium Sulfate $14-18H_20(Al_2(SO_4)_3{\cdot}14-18H_2O)$, Iron Sulfate Heptahydrate($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$) were used by post mordant at the same ratio. The dyed fabrics were treated with 20% each mordant solution at $25^{\circ}C$ for 10min. Comparison with a reproduced chemical mordant, the K/S values of cotton fabrics dyed with Hwangsu sping were increased.