• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.781-791
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• 2004

Currently, as mordants, heavy metals are being used in dyeing process in order to improve dye uptake and dye fastness. These chemicals, however, are mostly harmful to human body and the environment along with the pollution by effluent. Traditionally, rice straw ash solution, lime, etc. have been used as mordants in order to improve the effects on dye uptake and color fastness of dyestuffs. The study of natural mordants would, therefore, be vital to the development and succession of our traditional dyeing methods. In this study, as a preliminary step toward the use of rice straw ash solution for the nautral dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan, several aluminum compounds were employed as mordants. When the purified aluminum compounds were used, on the basis of unmordanted cotton fabric, the K/S values of the pre-mordanted and simultaneously mordanted fabrics increased by 2 or 3 times, while those of the post-mordanted fabrics decreased.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.136-144
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate various phenomena quantitatively occurring during the course of changing dyeing conditions of cotton and silk fibers in natural dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan. Paying attention to the fact that the color may be varied according to the extraction conditions of dyestuffs in Caesalpinia sappan dyeing, the color changes were investigated after dyeing using dyestuffs extracted at elevated temperature and dyestuffs extracted at room temperature. According to the extraction methods, the degree of color development for the category of red color and the category of yellow color has changed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.48-48
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• 2001

The effects of silane coupling agent on the performance properties of cotton fabrics treated with loess and its washing durability were investigated. Mean average diameter of loess was 17.88㎛ and main components were SiO₂, Al₂O₃ and Fe₂O₃. By using the cationic agent, the dyeability of cotton fabrics was improved. The washing durability, antibacterial property and deodorization rate were improved and very good emissivities of far infra-red rays were obtained by using the silane coupling agent. And also the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics, such as primary hand values, were improved.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.336-345
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• 2001

The effects of silane coupling agent on the performance properties of cotton fabrics treated with loess and its washing durability were investigated. Mean average diameter of loess was $17.88\mu{m}$ and main components were $SiO_2,\;Al_2O_3\;and\;Fe_2O_3$. By using the cationic agent, the dyeability of cotton fabrics was improved. The washing durability, antibacterial property and deodorization rate were improved and very good emissivities of far infra-red rays were obtained by using the silane coupling agent. And also the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics, such as primary hand values, were improved.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.818-826
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• 2009

Dyeability of microbial violacein produced from Chromobacterum violaceum CV107 on to multifiber fabrics has been studied. The bluish-purple colourants were produced by cultivation of Chromobacterum violaceum using LB liquid medium for 2 days. The colourant was extracted with 80% acetone and identified as violacein by LC/MS analysis. The violacein could be dyed on not only natural fibers such as Cotton, Silk and Wool but also synthetic fibers such as Diacetate, Triacetate, Creslan 61 and Nylon 66. Maximum K/S values were shown at 540-580 nm according to different fiber with color appearance of purple or blue. An optimum pH and temperature under dyeing condition were 10 and $70^{\circ}C$, respectively. Any mordants were not improved colour density and quality on various fabrics. From this studies, pigments produced microbe have a high potentials for natural dyeing on fabrics. Finally, development of new colourants from microbe has made a possible change for new dyeing field in respects of eco-friend and repeatability of natural dyeing for apparels.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.725-733
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• 2023

천연물 16종의 물 추출물 및 50% 에탄올 추출물들에 대한 기능성 활성성분 및 면포 염착효과를 알아본 결과, 색도 강도는 차이가 있었으나 적색 6종, 황색 5종, 오렌지색 2종 및 녹색 3종 이었고, 대체로 50% 에탄올 추출액의 색도가 높고 선명하였다. 이와 같은 천연물들의 물 추출물 및 50% 에탄올 추출물에 면포 거즈를 2일간 침지하여 염색한 결과 염색효과는 대체로 양호하였으며, 실온에서 건조 후 개봉하여 보관하여도 색도의 퇴색 감소는 거의 없는 것으로 관찰되었다. 천연물 16종의 물추출물의 pH는 중성 내지는 약산성으로 피부에 부작용이 없는 중성~약산성 범위였다. DPPH 유리라디칼 억제 항산화효과는 시료 별로 50% 에탄올 추출물의 효과가 물추출물에 비하여 양호하였고, 특히 황금, 유백피, 유근피, 박하, 홍화 등의 효과가 양호하였다. 폴리페놀 함량도 대체로 50% 에탄올 추출물의 함량이 물 추출물에 비하여 높은 경향이었고, 특히 금은화, 유근피, 황금, 유백피, 홍화 등의 효과가 양호하였다. 따라서 천연물 16종 추출물에 대한 항산화 활성과 여성질염 예방의 상관 관계를 규명하고자 하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2010

In the dyeing of cotton and silk fibres using Caesalpinia sappan, the effects of pH changes of the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor on the color were examined. In order to adjust the pH of the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor, Schisandra chinensis extract and carboxylic acid were used for acidic condition, lye and the NaOH aqueous solution were used for alkaline condition. By introducing the dyeing method of pH adjustment, firstly, the effect on the reddish color inherent to the Caesalpinia sappan was examined. At the same time, the manifestation of the yellow color, which affect the manifestation of the red color greatly, was examined in detail quantitatively. By dyeing the cotton and silk fabrics, the inherent relationships established between the pH hanges and the fibre characteristics were sought to be examined.