• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.143-157
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze functions and characteristics of 'Cha-il(遮日)' which was used at ritual events(宮中儀禮行事) in the Joseon dynasty, Joseon dynasty had many ritual events related with O-Rae(五禮). Cha-il was almost used at important ritual events, especially at the congratulatory events. The congratulatory events(宮中宴享) are the representative events were held with many temporary install facilities(假設施設) in a palace. Cha-il was a kind of Korean traditional membrane structures. Cha-il was set up for cutting off interior space from sunlight and rain. In general, Cha-il was Consisted of Cha-il-jang(遮日帳:woven fabric), Cha-il-jook(遮日竹:bamboo column), some ropes, and fixing wares. In the congratulatory events, three types of Cha-il. were set up. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was made of cotton cloth. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il(油芚遮日) was made of oiled paper or oiled cotton cloth. Man-Joen-Cha-Il(滿箭遮日) consisted of wooden structure. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was set up on the most important area of stage for protecting from sunlight. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il was set up on less important area of stage for protecting from sunlight and rain. Man-Joen-Cha-Il was set up below Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il for supporting and draining raindrops off. The results of this study were as follows; Functions of Cha-il were to protect ritually space from sunlight and rain, and to extend ritually space, and to reconstruct ritually space. Cha-il was the peculiar temporary install facility which differed from other countries.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.9-38
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• 1992

In the study the documents in Ryu Hee-Choon's diary (Miahm-Ilgicho) from Oct. 29th 1575 to Feb. 9th 1577, for Kaeg-Chung(客聽) are arranged and analized. Ryu, Hee-Choon (Mi-ahm) was a civil minister in the era of Myung-Jong to Sun-Jo of the Chosun dinasty. This study would be one of the basal material for actually inquiring into the character of houses for the gentry in the late 16th century. Above all, the significance of this is that it study could show the details of the architectural economy, the organization of architectural society and the process of the supply of architectural material at that time. Craftsmen devoting themselves to this work are carpenters, artisans making roof titles, roofers and artisans constructing walls. And the content that are craftsmen of monks(僧匠), artisans of commoners(私匠) and slaves belong to government(官奴) is noticeable thing. In this construction work, monks in temples of the region and laboures commandeered by the government office are mainly mobilized. Except of them, private slaves and commoners mobilized by government office also devoted themselves to this work. But, it required more research whether this aspect could be the general character of the construction work of the gentry in the late 16th century. Architectural material, in the case of wood was cut and transported mostly from islands like Jin-do by labourers commandeered by the head officer of the region and monks. Superintendents seemed to come be non-specialists of noble families of the ruling class. So, it is thought that they managed mainly the manpower supply and administration. And some architectural ironworks, much provisions and marine products for labourers and craftsmen were proided by the government office of the region. This could be understood in the same context as above that goverment office of the region contributed to commandeering labourers and supplying architectural material in some degree. Carpenters and roofers took wages that is, about 7.7 pils(匹) of cotton cloth for each carpenter and 5 pils of cotton cloth and some provisions for each roofer. This would be a noticeable thing for researching wages of craftsmen at that time

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.4-17
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• 2011

능산리 사지 출토 백제 면직물은 1999년 9월부터 2000년 4월까지 실시된 부여 능산리 사지 6차 발굴조사에서 출토된 후 보존 처리를 마치고 국립부여박물관에 소장된 유물이다. 본 연구에서는 섬유의 과학적 동정을 위해 비파괴적 화학적 형태적 분석을 실시하였으며 삼국시대 '백첩포'와 고려 말 '목면'의 유입경로와 특징 등을 밝히고자 백제 면직물의 역사적 가치와 의의를 규명하였다. 연구 결과, 적외선 흡광 영역 및 정색 반응 등에서 식물성 셀룰로오스 섬유의 특징이 나타났으며 형태학적 분석에서 면 섬유의 특징인 천연 꼬임과 중공이 뚜렷이 발견됨에 따라 면직물로 분석되었다. 백제 면직물은 축면의 면직물로 이제까지 면직물의 축면직물이 발견된 것은 처음이며 이러한 면직물이 백제지역에서 제직되었는지는 아직 정확히 밝힐 수 없으나, 백제지역은 마한시대부터 견솜으로 실을 자아 직물을 제직했다는 기록이 있어 오랜 세월 축적된 제사기술이 있음을 알 수 있다. 본 연구결과는 현재까지 삼국시대 면직물이 만들어지고 사용되었다는 문헌의 기록은 있으나 실증적 자료가 국내에 출토된 적이 없는 상황에서 백제 면직물의 가설을 실증적으로 확인시켜주는 자료로써 그 역사적 가치와 의의가 매우 크다. 향후 각 지역의 고대 목화종자와의 비교 분석 연구 등을 통해 백제 면직물의 품종과 고대 한반도 유입경로를 밝힐 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.43-55
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• 2005

This research was designed to investigate and compare the characteristics of preferred clothing textiles for slacks and skirt of college students. One hundred five subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed and the subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in a swatch book. The subject's weighted frequencies were added tv order of preference. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In the spring and fall seasons, black twill cotton drill was preferred foremost as a textile for slacks, and medium gray basket weaved cotton pinhead with stripe pattern was preferred as a textile for skirts. 2. In summer, dark bluish gray plain linen crash was the most preferred material for slacks, and pale yellow plain linen tropical cloth was preferred for skirts. 3. In winter, olive gray cotton corduroy was the most favorite textile for slacks, and moderate brown twill wool hound check was preferred for the skirt. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those chosen for other seasons, and textiles for skirts showed various thicknesses and weights as compared with those of slacks. 5. In fiber content, natural fibers such as cotton and wool were preferred for an seasons. 6. In the weave of textiles, twiu we,3ve was preferred for spring, fall and winter season, and plain weave was preferred for summer. 7 The most preferred colors for slacks were B and PB, and those for the skirts were YR and PB. For color characteristics, solid fabrics were generally preferred, and patterned fabrics were preferred for skirts as compared with slacks.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.363-370
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• 2017

국립일제강제동원역사관에서 보존처리를 의뢰한 상의 2벌의 재질 분석을 실시하여 당시 의복의 특징을 파악하고, 보존처리를 위한 기초 데이터 구축을 목적으로 한다. 시료의 섬유 짜임 관찰을 위해 실체현미경을 사용하였다. 또한, 섬유 동정을 위해 푸리에변환 적외선 분광광도계(FT-IR), 전자현미경(SEM-EDS)을 이용하였다. 의복 A는 겨드랑이의 구멍, 문양이 있는 레이온제의 흰색 동정, 전체적으로 문양이 없는 소재 등으로 유추하여 보아 여성이 입었던 일본식 속옷 형식의 상의(半襦袢)로 보인다. 몸통 부분의 현미경 관찰 결과 단면 기공이 관찰되며 전체적으로 섬유 꼬임이 관찰 되며, 재질 분석 결과 면이었다. 흰색 동정은 섬유 길이 방향으로 세로선이 관찰되며 단면에 기공은 관찰되지 않으며 재질 분석 결과 레이온 이었다. 의복 B는 오사카 지창에서 검수하고 직인한 작업자용 상의로 보인다. 현미경 관찰 결과, 섬유 꼬임과 단면 기공이 관찰 되었으며, 재질 분석 결과 면이었다. 단추는 분석 결과 초기 플라스틱의 하나인 요소수지로 보인다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.386-397
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• 2023

In this study, the efficacy of ultrasonic washing in cotton and wool fabrics was compared and evaluated against conventional washing in terms of cleaning properties and fabric deformation. Factors such as washing temperature, time, liquid ratio, and detergent concentration were kept varied, and the cleaning properties of sebum-soiled fabrics were assessed using different detergents such as alcohol ethoxylate, linear alkylbenzenesulfonate, and IEC 60456 Reference Detergent A^*. In addition, the effects and emulsification power of enzymes and oxygen bleach were examined. To compare the cleaning properties with general washing, a launder-O-meter was used. To investigate fabric deformation during the washing process, the loosening test cloth, shrinkage test cloth, and mechanical strength test cloth were compared between ultrasonic washing machines and household drum washing machines. The results indicate that ultrasonic washing exhibits superior cleaning properties than launder-O-meter when the temperature is low and the washing time is short. Furthermore, there is less deformation and damage during the washing process. It was also observed that the activity of the detergent increases when ultrasonic waves are applied to the washing process. Considering the increasing tendency to pursue convenience and simplicity in clothing management as well as the anticipated commercialization of smart clothing with built-in electric circuits, ultrasonic laundry could serve as a new alternative to existing laundry methods.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.105-114
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• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.716-724
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the washing methods specified on care labels of blue jeans and to examine the appropriateness of the specification. In the study, the present condition of care labels on 100% cotton blue jeans was investigated and the consumers' washing methods of blue jeans were surveyed. Also, the shrinkage of blue jeans after washing was measured. The major results were as follows: 1. In spite of the fact that same materials of 100% cotton denim were used in all cases, washing signs on care labels showed very differently and the symbols of hand wash, using light duty detergent, no wring, drying in shade, and warm ironing with a covering cloth were demanding too high level of care for the protection of blue jeans. 2. Almost all consumers didn't follow instructions proposed on care labels because they didn't anticipate problem. In reality, most consumers washed blue jeans by machine in cold water with heavy duty detergent at standard course, dried under the sun, and didn't iron. The 40.8% of consumers didn't have problems even if they didn't follow instructions. Most problems happened after washing were shrinkage in length, but in shrinkage test after 15 times washings, it was found that there was no serious shrinkage problem. 3. For ideal care of blue jean, it is necessary for manufacturers to recognize the importance of care label and to stick correct appropriate care label. Also, consumers have to trust and follow instructions on care label.