• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.19-25
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• 2002

Silk/cotton fabrics were treated with butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) under various treating conditions such as concentration, treated time and curing temperatures. Bending property, tensile strength, wrinkle recovery angle, and shrinkage were measured. The BTCA concentration in the saponfication mixture was measured by an isocratic HPLC equipped with the strong cationic exchange column Aminex HPX-87-H and a UV detector. The detected concentration of BTCA was shown in silk side much more than that of cotton side. The bending and shrinkage properties were improved at minimum curing condition and the lower concentration of BTCA. Tensile strength decreased with increasing concentration of BTCA, curing temperature and treated time, while wrinkle recovery angle increased.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.1009-1023
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• 2011

This study was carried out to investigate the variations of catechu dyed fabrics under UV irradiation. Catechu dyed cotton and silk fabrics mordanted with Fe and Cu were irradiated with UV under dry and wet conditions, and then were evaluated on color changes and mechanical properties. Owing to UV irradiation, the K/S values of catechu dyed cotton fabrics increased until a certain amount of time but those of catechu-dyed silk fabrics increased continuously. Cu mordanting cotton fabrics showed the smallest changes due to the UV treatment, and silk fabrics mordanted with Fe showed the largest changes. Wetted fabrics were accelerated maillard browning by UV. Un-mordanted cotton fabrics treated with UV under dry conditions changed its YR color to Y, but changed its Y color to YR under wet conditions. However, mordanted cotton fabrics treated with UV didn't change their color. Dyed silk fabrics except those Fe mordanted and in wet conditions continued to keep their color after UV irradiation. Silk fabric mordanted with Fe under wet conditions changed its Y color to YR by UV irradiation. UV irradiation didn't affect the mechanical properties of catechu-dyed cotton and silk fabrics in any significant way.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2001

To improve the dyeability and colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with natural dye of safflower, cotton and silk fabrics were pre-treated with different mordants such as halliic-acid, alum, brine and tannic-acid. Also, to investigate the effect of finishing treatment of fabrics on dyeability, cotton was treated with chitosan and mercerized before dyeing. L, a, b, ΔE and colorfastness(light, Laundry, sweat) of each samples were measured and compared. Mordant treatment didn't improved significantly dyeability and colorfastness on cotton and silk. But, on cotton mercerization and chitosan treatment improved dyeability and colorfastness. To compare the efficiency of extracted dye and Powered dye, extracted red dye of safflower prepared as powder. Cotton and silk were dyed with dyeing solution which made with powdered dye according to different concentration. Efficiency of powdered dye was found out lower than extracted dye solution.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.3-12
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• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Dryopteris crassirhizoma by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability, antimicrobial and deodorant properties. The colorant of Dryopteris crassirhizoma was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk were much higher than those of cotton, the color yield of the silk and cotton fabric were most efficient the postmordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. The chroma produced clear for the Al-mordant of silk and the Cu-mordant of cotton in the 3% concentration of mordants, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The K/S values of cationized cotton were much higher than cotton. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added, In the case of the light fastness, Fe and Cu-mordants improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial and deordarant activity on both of the silk and the cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.16-22
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• 2004

This study was carried out to investigate K/S values, surface color, the fastness to washing, bacteria reduction rate of the silk and cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract under the various dyeing conditions. The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH and repetition of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract were $l00^{\circ}C, 30min., pH 5, five times repetition respectively, but in the cotton fabrics, it were $60^{\circ}C . 30min., pH 7, one times repetition. It were colored orangish Yellow in the silk fabrics and colored bright yellow in the cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract. Surface color(munsell value) was not changed by the mordanting agents but those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with stannous chloride, and it was decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. The fastness to washing in the silk fabrics dyed with mordanting agents improved in 4～5 grade, but the cotton fabrics were 3～4 grade, so washing fastness of the silk and cotton fabrics were significantly improved when washing with the neutral detergent. The bacteria reduction rate of the silk fabrics increased drastically by dyeing of Rhus verniciflua extract.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.113-118
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• 2013

This study was carried out to evaluate the dyeing possibility of purple corn stem and leaf. The UV absorbance of the purple corn stem extract and leaf extract at different pH does not change. It is considered to use to efficiently measure the purple corn pigment content when using UV absorbance at 520~560 nm. By adjusting higher pH values in the extraction dyed fabrics, silk and cotton fabric used by the purple corn leaf extraction decreased lightness and redness. Extent for dyeing the fabric depending on the concentration, lightness and redness showed a tendency to increase color values when silk and cotton concentration increases. Also when the longer the dyeing time, silk and cotton increased lightness but redness decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.181-191
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• 2011

This study examines the effects of Evening primrose on colors, color fastness, and the antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics. The results are as follows. The dyeing conditions of Evening primrose on cotton and mercerized cotton were optimized at $50^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes, and 200% (o.w.f.). In addition, Evening primrose dyeing on silk was determined at $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and 200% (o.w.f.). The pre-mordant concentration of chemicals of cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized at 1% (o.w.f.). The post-mordant concentration on mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was determined at 1% (o.w.f.) and 3% (o.w.f.), respectively. The mordant methods (such as pre-mordant and post-mordant) were slightly affected on the hue of dye-fabrics. Wet cleaning fastness of cotton was improved by post-mordant; otherwise, the wet cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was improved by a pre-mordant. The dry cleaning fastness of cotton and silk was excellent regardless of mordant methods. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton was improved by a post-mordant compared to a pre-mordant. The antimicrobial activity of Evening primrose-dyed fabrics was shown at 99.9%. The excellent antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics remained after the mordant as well as wet and dry cleaning.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.194-205
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• 2013

In this study, we report dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract from Juniperus chinensis heartwood. Non-aqueous dye of Juniperus chinensis heartwood extracted with methanol was expressed reddish color. It showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Dye uptake of cotton and silk continued to increase according to the increase of the dye concentration. Cotton was not affected by the dyeing temperature and time, however, dye uptake of silk was increased as the dyeing time and temperature were increased. Dye uptake of cotton and silk were the highest at pH 8 and pH 6 respectively. Dyed fabrics showed various colors depending on mordant types and mordant concentration. Washing, light and perspiration fastness were not good. However, rubbing and dry cleaning fastness showed relatively good grade. Dyed fabrics of ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved. Also, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%.